Weber DGV Carbs

Can anyone give feedback, positive or negative on replacing SU HIF4 with Weber DGV carbs? To see the basis for my inquiry see "SU HIF4 Problems-8/13/06 8:16pm.
Thanks

I wouldn't even consider the DGV --- only the 38DGES would be similar performance wise.

I would never replace SU carbs with any kind of Weber. Take your car to someone who knows what their doing and get the SU's set up correctly.

?

I replaced my HIF with a DGV 32/36. I like it.

Because the HIF needed considerable repair that I did not want to tackle at that time nor which I was interested in paying someone to do for me. The DGV was cheaper and it has worked pretty darn well. Set and forget. I especially like the progressive "second" throat.

Redoing my HIF is now on my event horizon and I'll try to establish some benchmarks pro and con; I doubt there will be enough difference to be concerned about.

As for the 38/38 vs the 32/36 progressive, I've never seen any credible back-to-back kind of reports of what difference it actually makes. Sounds good, but what it really means I don't know.

Don, my first response would be Weber's are the best thing since peanut butter . Not a fair answer because I've been using them since the 60's on most all of my cars and they are what I understand while I've never taken the time to learn SU's.

From reading your other post it sounds like you would like to drive the car while it's still nice. Buy a Weber (I would opt for the 38 ) install it drive see what you think. The worst thing you'll have with the Weber is a little stumble in the 2,000 - 2,500 range but you'll be driving every day. This will give you time to look at and analyze your SU's. When/if you get to the point that you want to put the SU's back on you can ebay the Weber setup with out a great loss.

It gets you back on the road and smiling . All IMHO but I do love my Weber 38.

The DGV will give you better milage, but you will suffer some in low end performance. Its also it can be rather difficult to get the DGV onto its idle circuit. But, once they are set up, the are problem free and give acceptable performance. With Gas prices the way they are, its a good buy.

Tom, can I ask the basis for your response? Is it baesd on experience or an opinion?
Have you read my post on my situation? I'm looking for solid technical info and user experience so I can make an informed decision.
Thanks.

I am currently using a Weber DGV on my 79B but will be going back to teh Twin SUs over the next couple of weekends.

Why? Even though we spent most of a day setting up the timing, and carb, with many test drives ( I have a nice hill a block away) the Weber just does not have the response of the Twin SUs.

Now bear in mind I have run many types of Wbers on race cars over a twenty year or so period. Some like the 45DCOE I have liked, but others like the DGV I have not been so impressed by. I have not,as yet, tried a 38/38 Weber. maybe one day.

The 34 DGEC is a nice package. I have one on my GT and it works very well. No flat spots, good torque. Not a bad setup for $369. www.topendperformance.com

The properly set up SU's work better. A competent MG person can remove, rebuild and install the SU‘s for less money than a complete new Weber installation.

The car has better resale with the SU’s.

The logic of installing the Weber two barrel escapes me. Often it makes these situations worse.

Have you carefully explored with carb cleaner for intake leaks?

Have you checked that you have the right distributor?

Have you carefully explored the advances of the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance separately to insure all is well? I would spend a half hour checking the Dizzy carefully.

A webber will make your engine lose the "British" sound. If you like the sound of an old "Datsun" pickup truck go ahead!!!

I know SU's inside and out worked on them for more than 20 years. I recently put a Weber DGAS 38 outlaw in and I am quite pleased with it. I would not say it is a higher performance set up but it does seem to offer a bit more pull in the bottom range. As to ease it certainly is less complex than the SU's. It does not look as cool as a pair of SU's but offers a certain midget brute look to the engine.

I bought my '71 GT with a Weber DGV on it - also came with HS4's as "spares." I wasted no time replacing the Weber with the 2 SU's. I rebuilt them with no problem. Tuning them is a challenge I enjoy. I understand the simple beauty of the SU's and would not go back to anything else. Two SU's say "British" to me.

Gentlemen,
I truely appreciate all the feedback on my question. However I would appreciate it more if you read my previous forum listing (SU HIF4 Problem 8/13/06 8:16pm) as to why I am thinking of a Weber conversion. These are original carbs from a car with original engine parts. The car ran fine prior to the rebuild (done by Joe Curto one of the best) it skipped a little and was a gas hog, in the end it would not maintain the mix settings, lean/rich (worn parts?) so I had it rebuilt. I have reviewed the fuel and ignition systems from front to rear and back. If you can give me more info/clues as to my original SU problem, I would gladly stick with the SU's. I have invested to date over $600 on this, and I am looking for a fix that will get my car back on the road and make it a reliable driver again. For all you purists out there I appreciate your passion and loyalty to the marque, however an MGB that runs beats a garage car everyday.

Don, I run the Weber 38/38 dges Outlaw on my 78 and am really satisfied with its performance.

I read your first post and that is the exact reason to go with the Weber. After its set up it seems to work day in day out ...

From the initial post it sounds to me like the classic distributor issues compounded by someone messing with the carbs.

I would take the car to a competent MG person. I bet that it is not a serious issue at this point to get it right. It is not a good place for a part timer like many of us. This will take good problem solving skills.

I have researched the webber carb as I had similar issues. This is not a good choice.

Larry

Larry,
Joe Curto, SU REbuilder, and John Tokar, Vintage Restorations, have been involved with this problem since the beginning. Both are competent in British cars and there quirks. This is all new to them and they have been an integral part of my search to find a cause. Todate we are all still searching fo rthe root cause. Thanks for the feedback and comments re/Weber carbs.