Wheelbase, width, and CG of B

I am sorry to have to ask about this, but the forum is about my only reference right now. I am working on my LBC trailer, getting supports and tiedown spots welded in. What I don't have is the dimensions of the B. It is down with my daughter, as are the manuals. Could someone kindly give me wheelbase and width dimensions? Also center of gravity point. I have them for the Triumph and the MGA, they are sitting in my garage, but no B at this point.

Thanks,

David

Dave, here is link that maybe helpful. Scroll to the bottom of the page and you'll find most of the information you need. I'm not sure about the CG, 60/40 maybe? It's pretty heavy up front. Good luck.

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MGB/mgbspec.html

thanks, I'll keep looking for the CG, unless someone near south Arkansas wants to let me borrow their car for a few minutes.

David

Unless its gonna fly, I wouldn't worry about the CG. Roll the car forward or rearward to balance it in the trailer if tongue weight is a concern while attached to your towing vehicle, then add your tiedown points. Several inches will make a huge difference in the balance.

Yeah, I shouldn't worry about the CG, but I am also a pilot so CG is always something to factor in. I am also a bit OCD about tongue weight; a little difference in TW can make a big difference in how the trailer tracks and reacts to hard braking. I'll have electric brakes on the frt axle, and I can change the position of the axle carrier on the trailer. but since I will be hauling three different cars, and one of them is a TR6 that is very nose heavy, I figured I would mark the Cg of all three vehicles so I would not have to weigh the tongue each loading. I'm not going to put a storage box on the front of the trailer, I'll put a locker recessed in the floor in the middle of the trailer centered between the two axles.

One thing I have learned about pulling trailers. The better you have the trailer balanced and set up properly for the load, the easier towing, the less wear on tires on both vehicle and trailer, and the less stress on the driver. It is no fun to watch a trailer sway back and forth and wallow up and down for a long trip.

David

Well if you have a metal deck on the trailer, why not drill several holes in the deck where you can add a chock for each front wheel of which ever car you're going to load. That way all you need to do is to move the chock to the proper location for the vehicle you're placing in your trailer. And I agree with you on proper balance-tongue weight issues making trailering easier and safer. If you've ever seen an improperly loaded trailer going down the road and get loose, it's very ugly.

I will have a wood deck; mainly for cost, but also for looks. I'm going to polyurethane the deck after I get the inletting done for the D rings and chocks. I was originally planning to inlet e-tracks in, but decided that it was not worth it because of the crud that would get caught under the e-track. D rings are also cheaper.

The way I see it, when I finish, the trailer may be so nice I'll want to use it more and then I'll go out and find more British cars to drag home, then I'll get in trouble with my wife. Then I'll have to go live in the shop with the trailer, so I want the deck to look nice, since I'll probably end up sleeping on it and I don't want any D rings or things sticking up and bothering my back.

David

10 -12% of the trailer weight should be the weight on the tongue for the best/safest ride.