MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
I keep meaning to call John Twist during tech time to ask this, so I'll throw it up here instead.
I bought a new seal for one of my vent windows and couldn't get the spring loaded nut inside the door loose to remove the window. I didn't want to break the glass getting it off.
Any suggestions?
If I remember right you have to take the vent frame assembly completely out to replace the seals...
Frame has to come out as the post sits through the center of the seal unless you're Houdini, and I would suggest spraying a little penetrant on the spring and threads to ease removal once you have the frame out.
I just did one of these and will warn you that if the nut on the spring loaded stud does not want to come off, consider destroying the nut before you break the stud.
Pete
Clearly the window has to come out, getting the nut on the lower pivot stud is the issue.
How would you even destroy the nut? I can get a wrench on the lower nut no problem, but there is little room to spare, and not enough to fit a nut cracker. Trying to hold the glass while you loosen the nut is a recipe for a broken window. Spare rear quarter windows I have, but not door vents, so I can't afford to break the glass.
X2 on being careful.
When I removed the nut from one of my wing assemblies, the threaded rod/shaft broke! The damn nut had rusted solid to the pivoting shaft. Fortunately it broke right above the nut so upon reassembly I simply used a die to thread some additional length along the shaft and by cutting down the spring about 1/4 inch I was able to re-use things. On the other side I cut the nut off with a Dremel rotary tool, but I still had to clean up the threads on the shaft with a die.
I used stainless steel nuts and washers when I reassembled everything. I also de-rusted the springs and coated them before reinstalling.
What a pain in the butt!
I hadn't considered a Dremel. That's a good idea. I'll try that next week while I'm on vacation and can get some quality garage time at my sister's.
The replacement spring studs are something like $12 each on Moss. I just did this whole job, it's on my website http://www.dbraun99.com Look for the link to the MGB Wire Wheel Conversion that turned into a Restoration, and then proceed to the Restoration photos, body and then doors and windows. (I have a penchant for nesting links. :D)
(edit) I forgot to mention that the seals need some trimming of stray cuts if you have the Moss pieces, and the replacement seals under the vent window frames are a bit noodley, they are disapointing in their ability to hold the proper shape.
warmly,
dave
I did not have an issue with a frozen nut, so to remove, I put a ratcheting wrench on the nut and then swung the vent window open and closed. That worked the nut loose. Put it back on that wat too.
I had a friend of mine that's a mechanic help me and we couldn't get it to budge.
Dave,
So from what I can see from the pictures, three bolts hold the whole frame assembly to the door. Two through the leading edge of the door and one at the front under the door panel. Although the 3rd bolt attaches to that L bracket. Do I have to remove the L bracket to get to the other bolt?
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7
I assume you are replacing seal #15? You can't do that without removing the drop glass and the 1/4 light. If that's the seal you're replacing and the link above is not self explanatory on that which needs to be done there is a good start in a Library article - take plenty of pictures and try to mark #42/47 such that you can reassemble in the same position if you detach it or mark the bottom of the door where the holding screws are. If you are going to this trouble I'd suggest new channel seals. Porter has a good replacement option for that spring loaded stud - I used a ss bolt with a modified head. PS with the drop glas out (which means the winding mechanism out too) you don't have to detach #42/47 from the bottom of the channel. Once the 1/4 light is raised above the door sufficient for the front post to clear then you can rotate the 1/4 light and raise it up with #42/47 still attached.
On reflection you might be able to get the 1/4 light out without removing the dropglass and winding mechanism. It could be that by loosening up the rear channel and pushing the drop glass down and back that there's sufficient play to wiggle the 1/4light out. of course you need to remove the door panel and you may well have to take #42/47 off.