I'm tackling the doors now and I have no idea what order to install things so I started with the regulators. I bolted on where the window crank fits in but now I can't get the 4 bolt "anchor" (that stays stuck to the door so the window can go up and down up) far enough over so that all four bolts can bolt in. See in the pics I am only able to bolt two bolts in. I don't want to force it so I must be doing something wrong. Also there are two sets of four holes does anyone know what set I use?


Window Regulator Problem (Pics)
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generally I attach the centre bit first, but loosely. You will often have to rotate that into place. Then there is some cursing and swearing while attach the winder handle bit. You sometimes have to wind the winder a little. Then you've got to adjust the centre bit and the bottom guide to get the window going up and down its forward guide/slide easily. Fettling is the word especially invented for this sort of thing.
You might want to back up a little and set the channels and vent window assembly in with the bolts loose first.
Then get the glass roughly in position before installing the lifer assemblies.
I can't tell from the pictures but you might want to install the scrapers with pop rivets after lowering the glass into the cavity to the bottom of the doors but before setting them and the channels into place.
Jack
It was a while ago but I had the same problem. I think you can rotate the plate shown on your second picture 90 degrees and all the holes will line up. I know I did something along those lines but as I said it was a while ago and I don't really remember exactly what solved the problem. As Peter said I also think you have to attach the center plate first. Hope this helps.
It's been two years since I was there but as Jack said, vent assembly first. Rivet exterior rubber strip second. Next, exterior chrome strip, key lock, locking mechanism, latch stuff, then the window winder. I think I bolt the winder in first then move to the middle plate and rotate and use the winder handle to locate it. The right set of holes will present themselves. HTH!
Edit: I forgot to say get the glass in the winder channel before you bolt up the center plate.
This was posted by Jack Long (MGE member I believe) back in 2008.
The Compleat Official MGB notwithstanding, installation is NOT the reverse of disassembly! Here is the sequence I found works best:
1. Replace the rubber door seal with a new one, again using short stainless 1/8 rivets. Cover it with 2 layers of masking tape. I then lubricated the tape with KY jelly.
2. Place a new bottom seal on the vent assembly, insert it into the door and install bolts loosely.
3. Fish the rear track into the door and put it in place but do not install any fasteners.
4. Fish the door glass with metal track attached down past the rubber seal, taking care not to tear your new seal. Straight down worked best for me.
5. Push the glass into the front track and then fish the rear track into place on the back of the glass.
6. Install the rear track fasteners but do not tighten.
7. Slide the door glass up and down in its tracks until it slides freely but is tight enough to stay in place when you let go of it. Some white lithium spray grease in the tracks helps. You may need to shim the rear track with washers to get the right degree of friction.
8. When the glass slides properly, tighten the front vent assembly and rear track bolts. Check and adjust window friction as needed.
9. Fish the regulator (still adjusted halfway between open and closed) into the door.
10. Slide the roller pins on the regulator back into the metal channel on the bottom of the door glass. Front roller goes through the slot in the middle of the channel; rear roller goes into the back of the channel.
11. Moving the window up and down as needed, (here it helps to have an assistant with non-greasy hands), maneuver the regulator so the winder knob attachment on the regulator goes up through the proper hole while making sure the roller pins don't fall out (this may take a few tries).
12. Attach the winder knob, and turn the knob until the mounting holes for the regulator bolts come into alignment. Start one bolt by the winder and one bolt in the center of the door, and then add the rest. Tighten partway and check to see that window winds up and down without binding.
13. Tighten all bolts and ensure the winder still moves freely. Fiddle as required.
14. Lubricate all the moving parts with white lithium grease spray.
15. You will probably need to fabricate some kind of pad on the door stop to replace the old horsehair pad. I used some scrap carpeting.
16. Reinstall the plastic moisture barrier and door panels and be on your way!
Article written by Jack Long.
just noticed, you said 4 anchor bolts.
there are only three bolts for the centre
you can see the three threaded bits that they go into in the second photo.
As dave pointed out, push the one in the center of the photo down and rotate 90 degrees. You will have to jiggle the glas window a bit, perhaps push it up.
You might be able to get awy with just lootening the winder nuts.
By the way , the centre thin bolts need to be very short, (or have a stack of washers) otherwise they bind the plate behind that is meant to rotate.
When you've got it all back together and try to roll up the window, if it keeps coming out of the slide, the fasteners at the bottom of the door need to be flipped around. They can go either way,
I've been doing this today. Just got the car back from the painter/body work guy and he mucked up the windows. Hard to wind and the new rubbers kept inverting.
First clean the windows, they might have grease on them. Mine did. I sprayed armoral/ vinyl protector on them then rubbed dry, to remove grease and make them slippery.
Then you loosen up all the bolts and wind the window up and down about a hundred times, tightening and loosening alternate bolts, to find the least resistance.
The window settles it self when you do it often.
I pushed out the bottom of the front quarter window chromed vertical section to align with the windscreen side pillar, then I set the bottom rear vertical section to prevent rubber inversion.
wound the window to the top then lifted the window at the back to settle the front of glass into the track, then tightened the centre section bolts, Finally tightened the winder bolts for easiest action. About an hours worth of trial and error I guess. It worked out well. Very easy zero effort action now.
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