Would you say these bushings are shot?

Howdy,

Finally managed to get some time to take a few detailed photos of my recent acquisition. Besides the leaking radiator hose, I noticed the bushings look, well, a bit distorted. I haven't driven Bea much, but wonder what are the tell tale signs of bad lower A arm bushings? Could severe lean in a curve be one of them? If I replace them, what other bushings do you recommend I replace while I am at it? My MGA was a lot tighter on curves than the 76B is.

Happy trails,
mike

At the least, you need new ones. Only a personal inspection can really tell what else you will need.

You cant really compare the ride to an MGA or a chrome bumper B. Unless you car has been lowered, you
have a higher center of gravity, may have worn out springs and shocks as well.
Yes, you should replace those bushings and as Chris said, whatever else it needs.
RS

If you're going to be in there changing these (and it's needed), then might as well consider changing all the front suspension bushings. Can be a bit of pain, but not too bad (do a search here - you'll find lots of info).

I'm no expert (hell - my B's not even running yet), but I'm told the relatively poor handling is typical of the 74.5-76 cars, which are higher than the CB cars (pre-74.5), and do not have the sway bars of the '77-80 RB cars. If you're removing the A-Arms to do the bushing anyway, might be worth getting ones with the holes to support a sway bar and install that as well. Again, search and you'll find better insight than mine....

Bob

Just plan on a full dis-assembly of the suspension.

I would bet dollars to doughnut holes that several other things need attention too.

Jack

doing mine in january accumating parts now i'll let you know how bad the job is come february

I agree that the bushings are most probably worn and should be replaced but the lean in the corners compared to your MGA can be partly attributed to the lack of a front sway bar on the B. That's something I highly recommend as your first upgrade after the bushing job. Your car should have come with a front bar originally, wonder what PO removed it and for what reason?
I'd replace the inner A arm bushings, upper trunion bushings and the bushings in the rear spring hangers as well as the rear axle to spring pads. I highly recommend using polyurethane replacement bushings. They will both tighten up the ride and handling but also last nearly forever so you won't have to do that job again.

Get the nut off the lower trunion and see if the holes in the a arm have worn to ovals. Fortunately the arms are cheap if you need to replace them.
See the thread about the manhole cover for what happens when they get real bad.

Those are clearly original type bushings in the lower control arms. You should at least upgrade to the V8 bushings in that location, or poly as Bill suggests. You'll need a complete front sway bar kit, with front control arms as it looks like you don't have the mounting holes. Rear sway bars are readily available used.

There may not have been a swaybar originally, as the bars were optional equipment at that time.

I'm willing to bet the rest of the suspension is in good to decent shape.

Were it me, I would do the inner and upper bushes in Poly since the v-8 inner a-arm bushes, although good, are rather more difficult to install.
Also, I'd do the rear spring pads and shackle bushes in Poly but (unless it is visibly shot) leave the front "silentbloc" leaf eye bush alone!

Test the play in the front suspension before disassembling anything. If you are mystified, have a decent alignment shop do it (and show you how).

Count on cleaning and repacking the front wheel bearings while you are in there.

At least your steering rack gaiters are nice!

I don't think too much will be wrong since I don't see any "normal" road damage to any of the underparts in your photo (or jack damage!).

I just rebushed my entire B, front to back. Used all poly bushings from energy suspension, and also did the front subframe pads using Prothane pads, these where severely shot. Car handles way better then before, but thats a given.

Oh, and yes, if they are split and being pushed out like that, yes, they are shot.

Go Poly on the bushings. I did and they made a BIG difference. Here is a link to the ChicagoLand club about pulling the spring with out a compressor. I did it and it's easy.
[url=http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/mgb_susp/][/url]

I also just finished redoing front and rear bushings with poly and once into it I found that I needed swivel axles, drop links, steering boots, plus a few bits and pieces. While at it, lowered it an inch.

Wow, terrific responses,

Thanks a ton folks. I see a winter project ahead, in addition to 30 others on the B, LOL. The PO included a Bri-Tek lowering kit with the car. I've been hesitant to install it based on comments on the forum about caster, camber, etc., but considering my age and life expectancy, I think I will. I don't race or drive too hard. I love curves at speed though, hence my look under the car after feeling like I was in a tall and top-heavy SUV on a 55 mph curve near my house. The Texas hill country was made for an MGB (or is it the other way round?).

The expectation I'll have to adjust is with overall handling, since my very first car, an 60 MGA, handled well. Next came a 911, then a Z-3, and now the B. I won't be hitting a curve at 90 like I might have done with the other cars (strickly on track of course...tsk, tsk). I've wanted another MG since 1968 when I was T-boned in the MGA. This time, I wanted an MG with roll up windows...but that's another story.

I'll put the car up blocks and take a look at all the suspension parts. At a minimum, I'll get a poly bushings for the A-Arms (thanks for the tip about round out, the manhole cover was enlightening) and inspect the rest and replace if needed.

Best wishes,
mike

All of above and you may want to find out where the coolant leak is from.

You can't tell if bushes are shot just by looking at the outside. The bits you can see may look rough but the bits you can't see (which do the work) may be fine.

The only way to be certain is to check for movement of the arm relative to the chassis with a big lever. There will be minimal movement as the rubber compresses, but anything more than that is time to change.

That is the procedure carried out on the UK MOT, the annual safety test