A better way

I changed out the leaf springs today in the 79. After JDW's words below, I got thinking about doing it one spring at a time. Always before, it has been stripping a car, or putting a stripped one back together. Doing both sides at once make sense then. BUT! One spring at a time, you don't have to drop the exhaust! :))
Thanks JDW!
The springs that came out had bushings better than some I have had no trouble with. One side was missing the rubber pad that goes on top of the leaf spring (replaced it). Found that the rr shock is out of fluid. Even without filling it, the car can comfortably do 85 now and does not dive right or left when you give or take gas.
It is finally waking up! (And I ordered the proper reluctor from Crane so that when Mickey's big hand and llittle hand both point to 12, my pumpkin will easily convert back to an MGB).
That Z/S carb is doing alright Tony!

We always did them springs one at a time, less weight & bulk to contend with, and having one side bolted up helps align the other. Glad to see everyghing is coming together. Now, just for giggles and grins, if you don't mind, put some power steering or motor oil stop leak in that shock and see what it does before you go changing it out. I had a front shock seeping on my '93 BMW scooter at only 14,000 miles and the dealer said that was normal and the forks needed re-sealing. Experiance told me the seals had hardened, they just don't wear out that fast. I put about 1/2 oz of stop leak in each leg and she dried up like an old maids ti, er,,,,, right nice.

Chris when I do rear springs. I don't take the exhaust out. I put the axel housing on jack stands. Then put a jack stand on the nose of the differential to keep the nose from falling down. With jack stands on the body just in front of the rear wheel arch. I then take the U bolts off. Replace the springs, replace the U bolts, and the jobs done.

The difference between a mechanic thinking, and a wrecking yard or restorer thinking.
I tried something different this time; put the jack stands under the jack point, and let the rear end hang from the rebound straps (must be in good condition to do this). Then bolt the front of the spring, the rear, and use the jack to push the spring up to the u-bolts that were left waiting for it.
JDW- I'm too lazy to change things out without experimenting first. I got some mineral oil at the pharmacy (thanks Tony for the location) and want to try the standard first before anything else. Then I'll try your suggestion.

Now that I have paused a couple of minutes after that post below, I think I will try your suggestion. After all, if the fluid all leaked out, putting new fluid in isn't going to reseal it.

The stuff I suggested may not either, but if it does you're home free. You know what the alternative is. I have found only a couple of old seals that were actually cracked. Usually they just get hard and don't squeeze down on the shaft or whatever any more. Some will become more elastic and start working again some won't.

About 6 years ago I got Bea out one late Friday afternoon to get her ready for Memphis and noticed a drop of oil on the bottom of the right rear brake drum. Of course the first thing I did was say the sh!t word, wipe off the drop and the inside of the wheel. I had some power steering conditioner/stop leak on the shelf and squirted a couple ounces in the differential hoping it would do some good and took off for Memphis. When I got there everything was dryer than a popcorn fart and the seals I bought are still in my small parts box.

I went to add the power steering sealer; 30cc to the oz, more or less. The syringe started seizing up before I could get the first 20 in, and that was way more than the shock would take. Hmm. Can these shock go bad and not lose their oil? The only bad ones I've ever seen are cores sent to me.