A question re: head gaskets

I've just spent the past hour or so reviewing the old posts about head gaskets and really haven't found the answer to this question(s). I have two brand new head gaskets that are copper. They are both from Victoria British pn#1-7353. (don't ask how I came to have two of them) I am preparing to put the head back on the newly rebuilt engine and the "should I do it this way or not paranoid demon" bite me yet again. On opening one package I see that one side of the gasket feels like a tough polymer type of material while the other is a thin copper layer. I have always used Permatex copper gasket sealer on head gaskets without trouble but want to know if I need to on this type of gasket. Are these gaskets Felpro or some other generic brand?

The head surface is machined quite flat but the block has a few minor scratches in it that I am surprised the shop did not deck out. they do not extend to the bores but are just annoying to me just the same. Is there any method of filling these scratches? I need some guidance from you engine gurus as to how to proceed.

Thanks
Jim

Jim, I am not an engine guru, but I play one in my garage. (Sorry, I couldn't help it.)

I just refreshed my engine and put a new head gasket on. I did use the Permatex spray on both sides of my new gasket. It was not full copper on one side.

I can't answer your question about filling the scratches in the block surface however, when putting in my new gasket there were more holes in the gasket than matched up between the head and block. i.e. extra jacket holes? So, if these 'extra' holes are there I would think that a small (compaired to a 3/8 to 1/2" hole) scratch in the surface wouldn't make too much of a difference.

I repeat, I am not an engine guy. I would wait until one of the more seasoned members chimes in.

Good luck with it.

I have had the heads off many (okay, about six) MG's over the years, and I have always put the gaskets on dry. All literature I have found concerning both the copper and phenolic material gaskets call for them to go in dry.

I would not be very concerned about some light scratches in the block, as the gasket it primarily meant to seal at the cylinders, oil and water passages. If the block was decked then you can be sure that it is flat, which is most important.

As long as everything is flat, and properly torqued, I think you will have no problems, regardless of which gasket you use.

If your gasket has a metal side, spray it. I use the all composite gasket and put it on dry. On your gasket,is the composite side the deck side or the block side? If the scratches on the deck face the metal side of the gasket, you should be okay. If they face the composite side of the gasket, there may be a problem. Are there steel fire rings around all of the openings in the gasket? If there are, you're probably okay. If there aren't, I'd want to see your "scratches" before installing any head gasket. If they're light scratches - no biggee. If they're milling marks, you're be better off getting a head gasket that has a soft metal side facing the deck and that has fire rings around every opening. Best of luck. Basil

Thanks Basil for the information, here are two photos if they help any. The first is the supposedly composite side of the gasket and it appears to have some sort of compressionable ring around all of the openings. The second is a crap shot of the scratches I was speaking of. A fingernail will catch in them, I'd say they are about maybe .001-.002" deep, but it is impossible to tell. What would the part number be for a good Payon/Felpro gasket? I've put everything away for today as I am losing the light here. This side of the gasket feels somewhat tacky to the touch also. I think I'm going to go have a Turbo Dog and watch some TV.

I checked my catalog, and the FelPro part number is 21183C. If you are looking for a complete head set, the part number is HS21183C1.

I really like FelPro stuff. The parts store I worked at tried a couple of other brands, to use as a selling point, but we sold FelPro stuff 2-1 over any other brand.

Just to see, I reused a Payen gasket and it worked just fine.
Your scratches are not a concern. They are running away from the edge of the block not toward it.
NOt the best situation, but not dire either.

I dont think its a Felpro. good question. I really like the Felpro gaskets. Whats your experience with cracked heads. Have you had any. I cant tell much from your pic, but torque in the proper sequence, and retorque after the engine has ran through some hot and cold cycles. What kind of head do you have, is it the orig. or aluminum. Do you have new head studs, or not. Torque just like the book except to around 50 pounds , then to the recommemded 55 after run in. They recommend torqueing cold with an aluminum head but Im not to sure about that. I personally use a flat glass plate with petroleum jelly to check the decking of the block. The head should be fine with a good rebuilder. Id try to keep the compression on the low side now with the crappy gas. OK, I recommend using a for sure Payne/Felpro. Yada,Yada!!!

If that's the gasket I'm thinking of, the black side is just anodized steel - is it magnetic?

Ron, thanks very much for the pn's. And Chris, thanks for the second opinion, I figured that those scratches couldn't be too bad or the shop would have done something about them, they are the best in the area with a good reputation. which brings me to Gary, the head is a stock cast iron head and is flat as I checked it with the glass as suggested. Basil, that is a good question, I will try a magnet and see. It almost looks like metal but it is blackish in color and feels a bit sticky to the touch. I have never seen a gasket like this before. I'm still wondering about the use us a gasket spray or not.

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