Bandit or market value?

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Mar 06, 2010 13:39:01
KLUTZ

Yesterday I stopped to look at a disassembled engine that was for sale. I figured you can never have enough extras as long as the asking price was good. So. I picked up what turned out to be a complete except cam and rods 18V5842-L17239 engine. The crank has been machined, brand new +20 pistons with new rings, brand new valves, brand new bearings, flywheel that looks next to new and the block appears to have been honed as well. On the cylinders I am getting a measurement of 3.16 inches or 8.5 cm and there is no sign of wear or ridge at the top at all. The grab also included some gaskets. The guy I bought it from told me the head was crack free and with the naked eye I didn't see any issues but who knows.



Was the $150 I paid for this a bargoon or did he see me coming? :)

Oh and. What do the measurements I got on the cylinders mean.. is it honed to +20 or is it still stock?

Paul

Mar 06, 2010 13:52:18
mowog1

You've got your money covered with the head alone (assuming that it's not cracked ) . You're probably OK.

If it's +20, it's been bored .020 over to correct cylinder imperfections. How much over was the crank machined?

If nothing else, you have a new coffee table half the size of the Barnes'.





Mar 06, 2010 13:55:20
underdog

Your kidding right? You stole it! Getting a crank done is a hundred bucks itself here. 3.16 would be stock bore. Are these deal only in Canadia????

Don't even tell me the bearings are Vandervells.:moody:

Mar 06, 2010 13:57:18
KLUTZ

Quote: "
How much over was the crank machined?

"



There is something written / stencilled on the side of it. Have to head to work so will have to look in the AM.

Mar 06, 2010 14:06:06
robgeskey

Paul,

Nominal stock bore is 3.16. I am not sure how you measured the bore but if you did not use a bore gauge, I would highly suggest measuring with one prior to trying any ring and or piston fit. I have a bore gauge and would be happy to loan it out, but not sure how that would work with me living in the Chicago area of the USA.

If I had run into that deal, I probably would have bought it too even though I am not sure where I would put it. haha. I have a slightly large 2 car garage with 4 MGBs, my motorcycle, 2 lawn mowers and a snow blower in there now, not to mention some spare MG parts like a OD in waiting. Heck the new pistons are worth the money by themselves.

Cheers,

Rob

Mar 06, 2010 14:26:23
PaulM

Paul,

Check the crank journals to make sure the radius on each end is still there.

Mar 06, 2010 14:58:01
mgb77owner

How come I never find deals like this?

Mar 06, 2010 15:29:00
Solarman

Paul for that price show us the rest of the car!!! I cant wait to see her

Mar 06, 2010 15:49:27
KLUTZ

I checked the Crank before I left home. It is stencled, HO20 and RO20 whatever that means.
And I am not sure what this means, "Check the crank journals to make sure the radius on each end is still there." either. Paul :(

Mar 06, 2010 15:51:04
cfrench

Major score!

Mar 06, 2010 19:09:31
KLUTZ

So, what does the RO20 and HO20 that is on the side of it mean? Anything?

Mar 06, 2010 19:16:08
alex77

From Hap's website : "One item often overlooked is the filet radius, this where the crank journal meets the counter weight, there should be a generous radius here to insure you do not experience crankshaft failure which normally can wipe the entire engine out." http://www.acmespeedshop.com/pricing.html

What you don't want is a sharp 90 degree angle from the journal to the weight. Crank grinders often grind away at the journal, leaving this 90 degree angle instead of a gradual curve.

As for the markings-- my best guess, and only a guess is the main and rod journals are ground 20 under.

Edit to add-- are the rod/main bearings marked with a 20? or .020? or something like that? That would tell me the crank is 20/20

Mar 06, 2010 20:15:41
mk2sprite

I think paul is the Bandit in this deal..

Mar 06, 2010 23:55:25
oily-hands

I'm sorry to say, you were ripped off big time.

Being that kind of guy, I'll help you out and buy the junk from you. Hell, I'll even pay the shipping. :D

Mar 07, 2010 04:43:48
Mark Jones

Good job Paul. Take it to Trevor and have him check out the block, crank, etc. If all is good it sounds like you may have found a new engine for your GT.

Mar 07, 2010 04:59:00
KLUTZ

Quote: "
Good job Paul. Take it to Trevor and have him check out the block, crank, etc. If all is good it sounds like you may have found a new engine for your GT."


I don't need a new engine for my GT..... Now I need a new MG for my engine.... :(

Mar 07, 2010 06:11:23
Speedracer

Quote: "
From Hap's website : "One item often overlooked is the filet radius, this where the crank journal meets the counter weight, there should be a generous radius here to insure you do not experience crankshaft failure which normally can wipe the entire engine out." http://www.acmespeedshop.com/pricing.html

What you don't want is a sharp 90 degree angle from the journal to the weight. Crank grinders often grind away at the journal, leaving this 90 degree angle instead of a gradual curve.

"


Yes, crank grinding is a skill, most grinders don't get it, I seen every chicken crap trick in the book to keep the grinder from dressing the grinding wheel to make a good radius, I seen several make a series of little steps, which now creates several stress risers instead of just one where guys just grind the radius away. This is the only place a crank ever cracks, so it's big time important. In ever given populated area there are many machine shops that will butcher this job, and normally one or more shops that get it right, I always tell folks, find out where the racers get their cranks ground, this is the place you are looking for, be very leary of the machine shop that has a crank grinding machine, the machinist use maybe once a month, chances are he sucks at crank grinding. For me, I'm lucky lot of racing and performacne work done in this area and we're blessed with one of the best crank shops on the planet, Spartan Crankshaft, cranks are all they do, and they do them very well, they nomrally hit my requested number +/- .0001" which is like about ten times better than the factory did it, it's not uncommon to see a crappy crank job where the journal sizes jump around +/- .0005".

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