Best removal lift-points to extract Engine + Gearbox?

This post is to settle a discussion my brother Jeff and I have on what lift-points to remove the engine + Gearbox?

Is the best way is to use the straps or tethers round the engine or....to attach to the Head-bolts atop the engine?

My brother, (nutman79) on this forum (Jeff) have discussed this process and he has said he thinks lifting the engine with attachment points on the head-bolts (while tilting out) of the bay - (with a leveler) may stress the head bolts, or snap them off? I tend to think that could happen as well.

He recommends using Engine Tethers instead, round the engine, to ensure secure lift out of the bay (with gearbox).

What is the most efficient, safest more secure way - to lift the engine + gearbox out of the bay?

I have a 2-ton engine crane + a new leveler I just purchased at Harbor Freight. I will be ready - though there's probably some extra pieces I should get to ready my project for upcoming extraction of engine(s)...switching gearboxes so I can the OD from the 77 to the 79 -- woe is me! :thumbsup:

attach your lift to the rocker studs that the valve cover bolts screw onto. Highly doublt a 5/16 hardened bolt will snap lifting a 400# power plant. Reportedly, that is how the factory hadled the job and is the way Moss's tilt lift attaches.
BTW, I simply bought a 3' piece of angle iron from HD, drilled the appropriate holes (towards one end) and used the extra length in front as a handle for tilting.
Jeff's wrong.

Dan

Personally I would make an appliance using "L" or angle steel that will attach to the head via the valve cover studs and has attaching points at the ends for the levelers. I don't have a picture of one to share with you, but that is how they put the engines in at the factory.

The rocker studs work just fine.

I've used drilled angle iron on mine. I've pulled the engine/tranny an number of times without issue. Since I only have an overhead hoist and not one of those fancy engine cranes, I attached a small piece of 3/16" cable from the front to the back of the angle iron then attached the hoist to the cable. That way I can adjust the angle of the engine and still have it balance..

The earlier 1500, & 1622 B series engines as fitted to the Magnettes and many other cars had hooks attached by the rocker cover bolts. They were perfectly adequate for engines which are just as heavy as the 1800 unit.

I use an Oberg tilt lift hooked to the front manifold stud, and the top passenger side back plate bolt under the head.

I used alternator bracket and rear manifold bolt with load leveler.

Tom, Where did you get the vented valve cover? Or did you fab the vent yourself?

Rick

While other vendors have them as well, I know that The Roaster Factory has them in a variety of finishes with vents or without.

I have used a hook on the rocker shaft itself. Works fine, no damage.

I'm a believer in the rear exhaust manifold stud and the water pump arm. I use the Oberg tilt lift.

I attached a chain to the engine in much the same way as Tom has done above. I am no expert but the engine and trans came out and went in OK.

Mike

I use the rocker studs, and have never found a need for a tilting device. With the rear of the car on jack stands, the engine and gearbox come out perfectly without the need to change angles. I do attach less chain to the front than rear so that the gearbox points down a bit while hanging from the hoist.

Make a Gerry Lift. It is the closest thing you will find to the lift that the factory used. Do a site search for it.

The factory used the rocker cover studs. Note that the tensile strength of a bolt (even a small bolt) is enough to lift the entire car. The problem comes when there is a twisting force on the bolt because it wasn't tightened, or the plate it rests against is on an angle. Then it is possible to break the bolt quite easily at much lower stress levels.

So - I'd use what the factory used - I have used other bolts as well. But when in doubt, make sure they are well tightened and have no torsional force on them.

For what its worth, I seem to recall that the tensile force from a torqued head bolt is something like 10 tons! That's not an exact figure - but it is in that order of magnitude. If you think about it it has to be or the head would lift every time the cylinder fires. I grant you that a head bolt is a lot stronger than the rocker cover bolts - but it gives you an idea.

The locksmith's solution:
In the past I used the front and rear head studs.
With my snazzy new alloy head and freshly painted block I didn't want to
risk damage so I used a bicycle lock cable with two padlocks to attach it to the engine front plates,
The cable was criss-crossed over the engine and passed through the space
between the back plate and the block. One caution, if you use combination locks
make sure you can see the combo wheels when the engine is in place!

Rich

Rich, I've used webbed straps in a similar fashion. It's really the easiest way the I've found to move engines, but changing angles isn't quite as simple.

Replacement engines from BMC/Leyland used be delivered in a crate, with the lifting brackets on the rocker box holding down studs.

They were always the colour that the factory had painted the engine..Green/red/gold etc. The six cylinder engine had the same brackers as the four cylinder.

I've had the pictured brackets for years and used them every time I lift a BMC lump and perhaps a few other makes.

[URL=http://img12.imageshack.us/i/enginehooks.jpg/][/URL]

I use the alternator bracket bolt...with alternator removed on the right and the upper bellhousing to rear engine plate bolt on the left with the Oberg tilt lift
Frank

I used a strip of metal on the valve cover studs, bent in a way to create a lifting point a little forward of the middle between the studs. This makes the engine tilt the correct way to be removed easily. (not at home or I would post a picture of the thing ! ).

Dan... I used to use the rocker studs that hold down the cover... well, that is until a rear stud snapped and dropped the motor and tranny!!! Once in a lifetime is enough.

Now I follow proceedure similar to the one Rich outlined. I use nylon webbing straps from REI that are rated at 6 tons each. One loops through the space between the engine and transmission, the other goes under the water pump. Nice and secure, no marring of the surfaces.

I used two straps around the exhaust manifold and a chain attached to the alternator bracket. Worked perfectly. the photo is a little misleading, there is a lot of extra chain in front of the valve cover, it is in fact attached to the alternator bracket.

Put a cable under the exhaust manifold and a chain to the generator bracket when I recently pulled mine.

I don't like using the rocker pedestals as I have personally witnessed this causing damage to the shaft (bends) and I don't like the straps because of the lack of control. Now, while these may work many, many times before there is a problem, I'd just rather avoid any issues.

So, my favorite spots on the MGB Engine/trans combo I'd the rear most manifold hole and the water pump arm.

Attach a length of chain to these spots and then hook on the hoists hook to the chain.

This method also does away with the need for a
leveler, as just adjusted the point of the chain and hook will not only tilt the engine up and down, it can tilt it side to side as well, If ever needed, and there's no worry of slippage or damage.

At first, I put the hook far to the rear of the chain, in order to lift the back of the trans high enough to clear the rear crossmember (then no jack is needed) and then once the x-member is clear, I adjust the chain/hook to allow for clearance of the whole lump out of the car

Simple simple!

I used a front stud location and an upper bolt on the engine back plate to remove the PO installed incorrect engine. Only because I had the head off at the time.

When installing the rebuilt original engine and trans I used the two rocker cover bolts without any problems and without any assistance. It was my first time doing this and did not even bust a knuckle. I did use a load leveler taking the engine out and going back in. I really do not see the need for any special angle iron lifting bars to do this procedure.

Good Luck

I do as Brian has. Works, and works every time.