MGB: BGT door seals

Getting real close to installing the door seals and I need to know where and how the joint in the door seal is made. The ones I pulled out had been newly replaced and but were installed differently and badly. Joints were at the top rear corner, one mitered and butchered and the other almost butted with a 1/2" gap. This will not be acceptable! Anyone with a good example to look at?

I always do mine center bottom where the joint is covered by the door sill retainer

Thanks, Tony, that's what I was thinking, too. I just could not believe that the way th PO did it was correct

I like Tony's idea... Mine appears to be original, it's mitered in the upper aft corner. The joint gap has increased over the years and lets a lot of cold air in.

I've got one in place ala Tony, and it seems to hold the glass out a bit too much at that top rear corner. It may compress with time but I'm wondering what is original?

I'll look in the graveyard this afternoon....remember, you're using reproduction weatherstripping...I've never found it to fit exactly like the original stuff....wonder if one can get the original seals w/the cloth-like covering & the metal interwire?

I'm off for lunch now, But can check this out this evening. I understand the weatherstripping you're talking about is the stuff that slips onto the metal edge around the door opening. Is that right? Like on the roadsters, but it goes all the way around.

Yep, it's the same as goes on the roadsters,but longer. In fact, I plan to reuse my old stuff on my roadster by just cutting it to fit. I'm sure that they get the stuff on rolls and just cut it to length. It is fuzzy with metal teeth as grippers with a hollow tube as the seal. A neat miter in the corner is possible but would be hard to cut it and have it look perfect because of the give of the rubber. Having the joint at the bottom will look alot better and will be easier but if it should be some other way I want to at least consider the original before just slapping it on.

oooohhhh...you may have the OE stuff---fuzzy w/metal spirals!!!

The seals came two ways originally; fuzzy and not fuzzy, depending on year.
I don't have my books here and am doing conferencing the next two nights, but I'm sure it is listed.
I believe Moss carries both styles.
To cut a miter, use tin snips. At least it has worked for me in cutting seals.

I surmise it was originally mitered at upper aft corner as it's difficult to get the molding around a square inside corner without causing problems. Tony's got one or two GT's hanging around, we'll hear from him shortly...

not today....it's raining

Rain? Whats that? Wew haven't had any rain for 6 weeks! Wish this would happened in June! :o(

walked out to garage & looked at my '67 & 74-1/2 GT's....74-1/2 has 45 degree miters in the top back corners of doors; '67 had straight cut at top back corners (vertical runs straight up & horizontal butts into it)....now I've gotta rethink Jerri's '70 GT..thanks, Gerry!!

Gee, Tony, didn't mean to make you redo anything! If you like it the way you had them leave it alone! I suspect that no one would even notice it-they will be too busy wondering how that metal dash got in her BGT!

No, no...I'm thankful..& I learned something tonight & should remember to walk over to my other cars every now & then...I'll probably miter mine in the top rear corner

Me, too! A sharp razor knife and superglue and maybe a mitered piece of SS tubing for the inside, too!

You can probably find what you want right here. Maybe not with cloth, but textured plastic like the later model stuff. As for making inside squair corners: Just snip the sides of the channel portion and don't cut the rubber weatherstriping itself. Bend and push it into place. WALA! Put the seam at the bottom, where it belongs, no mater if it was at the top originally.

I took the old ochre coloured seals that were still in good shape from my parts car. They had shrunken over time and wouldn't come close to properly making it around the door opening. I used my heat gun to heat a section 8 or 10" at a time and installed it hot will stretching it out. Worked like a charm...I let it set for a few days and then took it out and painted it black with SEM spray paint fpr vinyl and then reinstalled it. It's been on the car for 8 months now and shows no sign of shrinking.

Gerry, the original fuzzy door seals were done with a 45 degree mitre at the upper rear corner of the window opening. There was a small L shaped piece of flat metal that was slipped into both ends to hold them together. It was about 1 1/2 inches along each leg and maybe 3/8 inch wide, made of fairly thin sheet metal. I did not use this piece after replacing my seals and have not noticed any problem.

Now, the real trick is that fuzzy window seals for your rear vent windows are NOT available anywhere. What I did was to carefully remove the old seals from the metal rim, peel off the rubber part of the seal, remove the remains of the fuzzy cloth, glue on black velour, reglue on the rubber strip, and reinstall. Looks original. Some fairly bad pix of how I did it on my web site http://members.home.com/ehubbard5/ then click MGB GT and you will find it.