BLEW MY ASS END NEED HELP PLEASE

Well did big burn out today and almost didn`t make it home. Lots of crunching and grinding going on, so I figured the old tractor differential finally let go.
Got home pulled her apart and found little gear teeth all over. So either I weld her to make a posi or I resourse a different back end. I have little funds to throw at it so I am looking for the cheapest change out. I dont mind some work. I have the weekend to spare!!!. My rims have the 4x4.5 as well as the 4x4 inch bolt pattern. I do not mind doing a disc brake rear end either and I can bend some fender flares.

A buddy of mine who did a Rover V8 conversion put a shorted Mustang rear end in his B. He was able to keep the same bolt pattern on his hubs. But I don't think it has rear disc. Usually the problem there is making the e-brake cable function.

Stick another B rear end under it for the time being ( cheap and fast ) and stop doing burnouts for a while. This will give you time to research and source a narrowed Ford rear end. Talk to the local hot rod community for all the details.

Jack

I put a narrowed Ford 8" in my conversion....came out of a 1979 Ford Grenada. Original geaing was 2.79, which was not appropriate for the T5...it now has an Auburn 3.27 posi. Got the axles from Mosier and Wildwood discs.

I know that costs very a lot from one locale to another Rick but what did you have in the narrowing process and the ratio change not counting the disc brake stuff? Jack

twigworker Wrote:

I've got a narrowed ford 8.8 with discs. Rearend was from donor car, but you can find them in yards pretty cheap ($200?). Moser narrowed the housing for $125, and new axles were $230. Bought a low mileage 3.27 ring and pinion for $50, and a shim and bearing kit with pinion depth tool for $100. Still need to get a rebuild kit for the posi unit. I'm putting it together myself, hope it doesn't blow up!

EDIT: I forgot to add, the new axles have the correct mg bolt pattern. It was simple re-drill the brake discs on my drill press.

Check out the S-10 pickup rears. I know they can handle 250hp with no issues. I don't know if there's a 4 bolt flange for the 2WD though. You can buy a locking diff starting at about $350 for them!

Looking at the thread title I was going to prescribe Kaopectate......

I second the stop doing burn outs idea. If you just can't get out of that high school mind set, then by all means go for a bigger stronger diff. To do it properly you will probably burn up about $700-1K, but you'll only need to do it once.

And BTW, welding the spider gears does not give you a 'posi' as you state. Positraction is a limited slip diff. Welding the spiders will give you a locked diff (a 'locker', not a 'posi') which I doubt you'd like driving in the rain or parking in tight spaces. It also would not do anything to address the strength of the ring and pinion.

It was only a matter of time.......

Power corrupts. Absolute power corrupts absolutely! :)

Check out Ebay.com MGB, I think I saw a rear end set up for an MBG there yesterday.

Ted Lathrop of FastCars, Inc did the work on my Ford diff.....