Broken high beam switch - fixable?

The high beam switch portion of the combo turn signal / high beam / flash switch is broken on my '77. Rather than 'click' between low and high beam settings, it 'flops' between them. I can move it and the lights operate, but it does not firmly stay in either position. Turn switch portion works fine. Since removing this gizmo for disassembly and investigation apparently requires removing the steering wheel (ugh), does anyone know what the mechanism is and whether there's any prayer of repair? Otherwise I'll stick a toggle switch somewhere temporarily (yeah, right!) or perhaps install one of the old-style floor switches until I can get around to a proper replacement.

Thx
Bob

Internally there is only plastic and tension springs. Epoxy may fix the plastic but in time it will continue to fail elsewhere...plastic only lasts so long.

Compare that to the cost of a multi purpose new replacement or rewireing to a traditional foot control dimmer. All things are repairable given time and $. This my friend is likly a senseless task given the availability of brand new fresh. IMHO

I just went through this very situation. There's a small, three pronged free floating (cream color) protruding plastic piece at the base of the shaft of the shaft. The longest of the three has two inverted teeth - which fit over two protruding teeth. This longest middle piece - is the one that has broken on your turn signal switch, which clicks forward or back, to operate the High Beam (forward), back to "flash" drivers as well.

I got a used switch for dirt cheap at my local shop - which works perfectly - and isn't broken or worn as a replacement. I bent my steering wheel to get to the switch, cause it was fused to the shaft. I almost got busted too - when I was out testing my Overdrive, (after I fixed it!) -- by a Cop, cause with a broken high beam, it just waffles back/forth when you hit a bump in the road, flashing cars, randomly! Ahh! :thumbsup:

I did attempt to fix the broken long piece (and super-glued) it - to no avail. Once it is glued back on - one has to hold back the black flange (which is part of the switch body) - in order to get the longest protruding piece back up into place. Only - I broke the flange as I was holding it back, to re-fit the piece back into place. It is very tight. The plastic is old, more brittle and likely to break like mine did. I spent two hours total working from start to finish, (glueing), and then reassembly....so [color=#FF0000]NO[/color], skip trying to fix it...though if the horn wire is loose, that can be fixed, (I've done that on my 79 years ago and it still works!).

I even did a post about it, ha! :smoking:

Thanks folks - you confirmed my instincts. I have far more important things to work on anyway (new steering rack and brake lines arrived today....). Onward!

I just replaced the entire switch - didn't think it was worth it trying to glue it back together.

Very frustrating trying to get the steering wheel off (required because the switch uses wheel position to cause the turn signals to cancel) but I was FINALLY able to get it off after spraying Blaster in there and letting it sit overnight. I put some anti-seize grease on it the splines before putting it back on.

Glad I got it fixed - I was constantly having waitresses and reception people at places where I was eating come over and say "Your lights are on"

The (broken) switch - especially if parked on an up-hill slope - was migrating back to the "flasher" position and turning the lights on!

Bob. I used to repair these back when Austin Marinas were my families choice of daily drivers. New switches back in 1976 were ridiculously expensive, not just the extravagant they are now.

The Marina had the same type of switch, with the same plastic bit that would break. My dad and I would dismantle the switches, which entails pulling the lever out of it's support block (not easy). We would then drill through the two bits of broken plastic, (which Dan describes beautifully) tap one side to 8BA and bolt the two bits back together.

The repaired switches worked, but never as well as new.

The one in my SD1 broke not long after I bought the car. I ended up parting out a damaged MGB switch, as Dan suggested to get a new plastic bitty, which I was able to install in the original Rover switch. That worked a treat. But it is about a 2 hour job.

Buy a new one.

Glue is not successful on plastic bits usually.

I have found an electric soldering iron with a tip ground like a thin knife is good for welding bits together and sculpting worn bits back into shape.

Push/pull/add molten plastic anywhere you want and it is ready for testing in minutes when cool.

OK - so fixing will be a winter project. I've rebuilt the all the hydraulics, entire front suspension, new wiring harnesses, and a bunch more, but still don't know if the #%^$@$ motor, tranny and OD work yet. Hoping to get it together enough by the end of the month to see. This switch is just a distraction...
Thx All -
Bob