MGB: Canisters?

O.K.,
I've got my 80 back to the twin S.U. setup. Can some one tell me what I have to cap off or re route to get rid of the Charcole Canisters? I've heard from this BBS that it makes no diff. either way. I'd like to remove them for the uncluttered aspect. Good and Bad advice are welcome!
Matt in Michigan

I'd keep the cannisters and fuel tank vent system intact if I were you. It doesn't rob any power and helps the crankcase vent system work properly too.

You can cap the fuel tank vent line and drill a 1/16" hole in the gas cap somewhere inside the seal ring of it. No need to drill the outside chrome cover. Cap the snoz on the valve cover.

Where would you put the pipe that goes back to the gas tank then? Unless you're going to remove that, cap the tank, and use a vented fuel cap, I'd leave it alone. Otherwise, look in the Moss catalogue at the smog routing for a 68.

Smog routing for a '68 is my preferrence. When you remove the cannisters it creates an empty void that looks out of place with the pedal box. brakes, and all on the other side. It really looks empty and goofy with the original W/S washer set-up in place. It looks like you need to glue one of them little dogs with a bobbing head or about anyghing in there to fill up that hole.

I like the hole myself, but he could go with a 66 washer bottle and bracket that would fill the hole to give more balance.

I used an aftermarket ANCO washer tank in that spot...using a bracket I fabricated to use the same bolt holes formerly used by the carbon cannister bracket...

So....
What I get from this is, I need the tank to breath/vent. What the cans did was filter that gas through charcole. (does the MGF have these?) When I cap hoses off, do I plug them shut or with filters?
Matt in Michigan

I'll toss in a few .01$...

I'd side with John and keep the can's they trap overflow from
the float -OR- suck the float dry when the ARV opens up
when the key is off.

Now what I've seen done to remove the can is to take
the loop from the carb bowls... That'd be the steel pipe
that the 'T' routes to the can, and instead, tie that into
the pipe -OUT- of the can that runs to the evap tank.
(From 'T' to the hard line to the evap tank in boot)
So at least you'll recover some spilling fuel if the
seat or needle get fouled and start spewing fuel.
You cap those puppies off (like many) and the
gas gets dumped where? Cylinder cleaning!

You can then cap off the valve cover breather and
drill a breather hole into the valve cover cap.

I seriously think I have an easier time with setting
up the carbs and the timing with the the crank vent
and ARV in place and functional. (HIF4's)

Others whom I know that stripped their breathers and
run-on equipment, are always messing with their dizzy's
advance. I think the breather messes up the vaccum
advance since some pressure is no longer in the manifold
via the breather to the carb. Eventually going electronic.

They also seem to run their SU's richer than I and sometimes
complain of mid range break up. Haven't had any such issues
could be a breather pulse thing at some rpm's? I donno...
My carbs are crisp and have not been problematic... yet...

The run on valve is a simple affair. Turn the key OFF
and the valve opens to atmosphere (hose to the ground)
sucking the float bowls dry into the can.
The evaporating fuel expandes into the evap tank in the
boot to cool and drip back into the tank. Simple system.
Easy to repair the can, but pain to remove! To me part
of the charm of the old LBC's -dual SU's- evaporate loss
system- heater box...

These things *are* noticed when missing.

Keep the old parts for the next Owner...

Reminds me of a question...

Out of my donor car (78) there is a loop of steel
line that runs up under the boot hinges (cowling)
and back into the evap tank.

Anyone hazzard a guess as to why this added
loop in the later model years? ZS carbs spew
more fuel? more needed to condense the
fumes prior to hitting the evap can?

inquiring minds want to know!

Thank's,
Now I'm really confused. But it's what I wanted to know.
Matt in Michigan

When would I know that I need to rebuild my canisters?

I got vacuum on the canisters now (put a new port on the airfilter tray) but I'm weary about the whole systems operation...

My theory was always that it was greater condensation ability.

When you can't pull anything through them.

As time goes by and gas consolidates into the carbon can
the granules degrade and eventually become a rock hard blob.

Which may still breathe. well sort of...

There are some good links to rebuilding them.
Thought this was a couple a year maintenence item
I'll have to look it up in the bently...

I couldn't find a good heavy grade of filter material
like what was originally there. There are also a few screens
which disentigrate and then allow some loose carbon grains
in through the valve cover breather. (so I read never seen)
or was it back in through the intake manifold...

I ended up using PELLET style aquarium carbon/charcoal
since it's hard to find large grain carbon in small quantity.
To replace the filters I used solvent resistant scratch & buff's
cut to size. They breathe well and provide the same function.

Finding screening to replace was difficult as well, since there are
two different weft's of mesh used. Found some heavy SS wire
mesh at a hot rod shop close by and some smaller weft steel
screen from my local building suppily store.

The tough one is the can AND the run-on valve (in my case) had
to come out together. Remove the can from the brackets and
hoses. Pull the bottom hose (to bottom of the car) off the
valve. Grab the can and valve then turn the valve 90 to lift
it away. (couldn't seperate the hose connecting the two in situ)

Bottom of the can unscrews. It's spring loaded inside there and
stinks like... . Wear GLOVES 'cuz ifin it
get's on your hands you will NOT be making any advances toward
the wife for several days. Clean it up replace the filter and rusting
screens and it's done.

I just couldnt use coffee filters like I've seen suggested after all
were running gas through this thing...


MATT
My intention was to clarify the system not to confuse

Your comment "What the cans did was filter that gas through charcole."
prompted my responce since I assumed you did'nt get the whole picture
of the case venting to the carbs (think this is just an HIF4 thing 'tho)
and the run-on valve using vaccum to dry the float bowl. As well as
the breather on the cover through the can as well.

Remember to use a little heat shrink on the leads to the ARV since
it's 12v there with the key off (believe it's only grounded when there
is oil pressure) and being HOT WHEN OFF and bouncing around may
lead to unwanted results...

I'm sorry if my winded explanation confuses.... It took awhile to
understand the system as a whole.

Again I'd like to say I agree with the idea of keeping it intact
'tho for functional reasons not astetics...

Cheers

Cool,
So it's not just a thingy' with a whats-it valve that helps the car go? ... I thank you for the expla. I will keep it now that I know more about it. I'll just add some braided housing to them so they look better!
Matt in Michigan

Whenever I pull the hose from my valve cover, I get a drip-drip-drip of gooey condensate coming from the ventpipe. My thoughts were that this is all going into the carbon canisters, thus not just fuel vapors...