MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
The screws used to hold the bell down, the float bowl cover on etc...
are these "special brit stuff" or can a 10-24 pan head be used w/o messing up the threads? (OK they are the same p/n on HS, different on HIF) but same question.
They aren't Whitworth if that's what you are asking. I forget the exact size but I bought a box at the hardware store and they work just fine. 10-24 sounds right but I would have to go measure to make sure. Why Panheads by the way? I used allen heads just to make life easier. Hex heads would work too. The slots deform too easily on panheads, IMO. The panheads at the hardware store have thinner heads than the stock screws, which doesn't help. You would probably have to go to McMaster-Carr to find screws with the hefty heads like the stock screws.
edit - it's 10-24 on HIFs and HS4s.
For my carburetors (S.U., HS-4, AUD405), I ordered stainless steel fillister head machine screws (10-24) from McMaster-Carr (item #91794A242). A box of 100 is about $12, and I still have a bunch left. If you need some and don't want to order a whole box, let me know.
we've got a pretty good real hardware store around here. I'll check tehre.
float bowls on HIF have a diff P/N...different length? IIRC they were the same thread.
HIF float bowl screws are 1/2" long 10-32. <<------- note
HS4 float bowl screws are 1/2" long 10-24.
HIF & HS4 air chamber bell screws are 10-24.
Gerry Wrote:
moreso74 Wrote:
mac townsend Wrote:
Eric, How in the world did you ever polish into all the corners on that carb? That looks great!
John
Odd. I can get the index page but none of the product pages come up. Must be a Java thing.
I notice they have an LA location (as in Los Angeles not Louis-e-ana) (btw, ever read a book called Two Towers? Written 50+ years ago by Thomas Costain (who also wrote The Robe, basis of the old movie, and many other historical novels). It's about the French Colonial family that intially started colonizing Louisiana 400 years ago.
Gerry Wrote:
I use Fillster screws as well, because most people will have a screwdriver quicker than the will a allen head set in thier trunk should they need to work on their carbs. Eric, nice looking work, I notice the brass vent tube are longer brass natrual color, did you you paint the outer carb body and float bowls?
Mac your carbs will have new hardware including new proper dashpot screws as well. I started on them and all Curto parts have been odered.
I use Fillster screws as well, because most people will have a screwdriver quicker than the will a allen head set in thier trunk should they need to work on their carbs. Eric, nice looking work, I notice the brass vent tubes are no longer the brass natrual color, did you you paint the outer carb body and float bowls?
Mac your carbs will have new hardware including new proper dashpot screws as well. I started on them and all new Curto parts have been odered.
Mac, you clicked on a product in the big window on the right?
No, don't remember the Two Towers, but do remember the Robe with Victor Mature wasn't it, as Christ? Did read The Twin Towers back about 1970 by Tolkien, though, along with the rest of the Hobbit books
Gerry Wrote:
Speedracer Wrote:
The float bowl screws are 2BA and the vacuum chamber is 3/16 Whiworth. That said, a 10-32 is a close match for for the 2BA and the 10-24 is a close match for the 3/16 Whitworth.
Cheers,
Darn Dave, you beat me to it but of course, I learned it from you! Cheers.
Paul
I also ordered a 100 as well, I'll be using the Curto ones on yourcarbs, which are kinda pricey, but real nice, we then can both compared those to the McMaster Carr ones.
For $12.00 a hundred I fiquired it's was worth a look.
John Davis Wrote:
Speedracer Wrote:
Holy crap! Those look great! I cleaned and polished my SU's, but they are no where near that nice! Good work!
Eric, one more question, did you leave the plating inside the carb body as well, the reason I ask, is the dashpot/piston are machined match assemblies and the fit is rather crucial, did you have any problems with dashpot/slide fitment post plating. No doubt you done a great job, nice work
I spent a good bit of time trying to make my carbs look good, but I have to admit, when doing this for a living and pricing to the public, you have to when is too much for you to do and stay within a cetain retail price range. As for polshing, I do a pretty good job of this, but you can literally spend hours and hours doing this and then the carbs would be way more than anyone would ever pay for this job, I can compete with a indvidual like yourslef as I'm sure you have way more time in your carbs than I put in mine and I have a great amount of time already in my carbs. Good job again, they look great. Not quite as nice as your cosmeticly, here's a set of HIF4 I did for a customer. For some reason this picture won't post on the forum, it's on my website and here's the link.
<http://www.acmespeedshop.com/_images/stewartshif.jpg>
David Maples, I know you well enough to know what you are thinking, you will lose your shirt if you put as much time in a set of carbs for retail as Eric did :) An obcessed individual ( I mean that as a compliment Eric :) ) can always justify an enormous amount of time and effort on their own stuff, where in the retail world, you would probably need to double your price to do this.
Oh I'm going to do it anyway Hap. Just for myself and just to have done it.
You probably saw that coming too. heh
Speedracer Wrote:
JimmyHilton Wrote:
The Fillister head screws look good to me and not much different from the Brit's "cheese head screws" that the carbs came with originally. The originals almost appear to be aluminum, but I doubt it.
Dave's almost right, as the float chamber screws on HS are also 3/16W. I don't know about HIF, but they are not 10-32. They will be either 2BA or possibly M5 as the change to Metric was creeping in by then, never measured and I ain't going out in the dark to take one apart.
There are NO American threads on SU! Yes it's "close" - The thread forms are different and the rest of you should have your fingers broken! The correct parts are available, there's nothing wrong with them, stop destroying parts.
FRM
Bob-
They started out brass on earlier H, then I think they (steel) were cad plated. There were replacement bright nickel commonly available in the 60s, the latest were likely zinc plate.
FRM
You can have my standard american screws after you take them out of my broken fingers, after you have broken my fingers.
I've been running a set of HIFs with the above for 3+ years at over 25000 miles and they are doing just fine.