MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
We just purchased a '73 GT on Friday and have been doing a little tinkering with it over the weekend. The choke cable doesn't lock when you pull it out and turn it. I would imagine it needs a new cable assembly. I searched the archives but didn't see any answers for me. I was wondering if just replacing the inner cable like a few of the guys had mentioned would fix this problem or am I going to have to replace both the inner and outer cable. Thanks......
Buy a new choke cable. It comes with cable and casing. You will need patience and small hands to install in the dash. A temporary solution is to pull the choke out and clamp the cable with small vise grips to hold the cable in place until the engine warms up.
Mine locks perfectly, but I never need to lock it. It stays put on it's own, but operates smoothly and easily. If it's not going back in by itself it doesn't need to lock.
John, it won't stay out. Even when I turn it, it goes right back in and of course, doesn't keep runing until warmed up.
I have a Weber set-up and they don't have a spring to open the choke, maybe that's the difference.
I wonder if you need a spring on a SU setup?? never really thought about it!!
yeah... there are the return springs connected to the throttle linkages. when i get mine set back up i think i will try it with out them...
don and joan...
i'm wondering if the part that wont lock isn't the cable but rather something withing the knob? i haven't had mine apart but it dosen't seem like it would be the cables fault if it's not lockin when u turn it.. ?
Interesting thought Evan. I can see what you mean That is why I was thinking that only changing the inner wouldn't really do any good. Anybody know exactly how the locking mechanism on these works? I will have to check it out a little further.
Behind the knob the inner cable piece is rigid for about three or four inches, with a funky cross-section. In the sheath is a ball held in place by a spring plate the protrudes into the space that the inner part goes. Due to the cross=section of the solid shaft, with the cable in the "unlock" position the ball doesn't impinge on the shaft, but turn it to the lock position and there's enough friction between the ball and the shaft to hold it in place. The "click" that you feel as you turn it to lock is the ball riding over a ridge in the shaft.
The reason I know this is because I seem to go through a cable a year, and I'm trying to figure out why. I'm wondering if it's not just crappy cables....
Are we all talking about the "T-handle" chokes? That's what I used to have on my 66B, and it locked fine, but I replaced it with the original round "C" knob choke. The "C" choke I have in there now doesn't stay "pulled" at all, nor does it lock. I've got a replacement choke, but examining it before installation, seems like it isn't made to turn and lock. But it's GOT to be made to stay open a little, doesn't it? It's not big deal most of the year, but is a pain in the winter when I have to keep one hand on the choke to keep it pulled until the car warms up.
Anyone out there have a "C" knob choke that either locks or at least stays pulled out until you push it in?
On my 66 I have the "fan" looking cable, and it turns and locks no problem.
same here Kim, i have the C knob type, and it does pull out, turn and lock. does yours have the little arrow on it indicating "turn me" ? ;)
Nope. This is a Moss replacement C knob type. It just has a C, no little arrow.
If anybody DOES have a functioning C knob in their spare parts bin that turns and locks -- or just stays pulled when you yank on it, please let me know.
(Got any of these in your graveyard, Tony?)
Kim, a few months back I got a box of parts that were bought new around 73-74 (then stored away) and it included a choke cable. It didn't have any arrows, but it pulled and stayed pulled without having to turn.
