Clutch.....Questions

Well I thought that my clutch plate was rusted to the fly wheel, but upon further bleeding, I did manage to get the thing to shift into 1st, 2nd and 4th and see that the wheels actually moved forward when my foot was off the clutch. So, I guess not a rusting problem.

The bleeding was done by pushing fluid up through the line into the master and also be depressing the slave plunger to get all the air out. I have about 3/8 of travel.

The problem is that I'm stuck here because I can't get any more travel. No shifting into 3rd or reverse with the engine running. I checked the plunger pin on the master and then found that the clutch pedal top hole was actually elongated by a good 1/8 inch. I can't tell if this was done on purpose by the PO to get more travel or if this just wore. I'm not thinking a hole could open up that much in a pedal that is that thick.

Any advice...thoughts appeciated!

Dan

Dan, There is a good chance the pushrod on the slave has the hole elongated also. Plus of course wear on the clevis pins. It all adds up. With a little care you can weld the holes and redrill them to 5/16".
John

Dan,
If you decide to replace your clutch master cylinder and slave sylinder, here are some prices that you might find interesting:

Aftermarket Clutch master is $66.80 - Moss charges $99.95
Original equipment clutch master (Girling) is $98.30 - Moss charges $139.95

Aftermarket slave cylinder is $39.30 - Moss charges $63.95
Original equipment slave cylinder (Girling) is $74.90 - Moss charges $114.95

The pushrod (if you need one) is $8.60 - Moss charges $9.95.

Let me know if I can help. Thanks. Basil

Wow. I shouldn't be but I am amazed that the pedal hole could wear like that. The thickness of the thing would not suggest it but I get it now.

I temporarily stuck a bolt between the clevis and the pedal top so that the wear in the hole would not come into play. It allows me to shift through all the gears. So that's solved!!

I've been trying to remove the clutch pedal for some time. Is there a trick to this? I'm trying to access and turn the one big pivot bushing nut under the pedal box. Cannot turn it.

DD

Its really amazing that the metal just melts away, isn't it?

But, that back and forth motion over 35 years can do it.

Afterall, look at the Grand Canyon! Nobody dug that whole overnight! hahahahahahaha

Dan, why don't you post some pictures of all of this, because this happens quite a bit, especially on cars that are being brought back from he dead. Plus, these "little" subtleties are overlooked so many times by people, it would be good for the group to actually "see" this.

Brian

I replaced the rod on my slave cylinder and two years later it had measurable wear. The problem, I think, is dirt. If you don't grease the pivot point, it wears. If you grease the pivot point, it picks up fine dust and grit and wears. There is no winning move here.