Clutch Slave Cylinder Questions and Comments

Since my clutch pedal goes to the floor after one stroke I decided to replace the slave cylinder hydraulic rubber hose, rebuild the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the rubber hydraulic slave cylinder hose? I removed the end on the slave cylinder. That was easy enough as was removing the slave cylinder. However getting access to the top nut of the hose is tough. What size wrench do you use? I thought I could just unscrew the rubber hose without disturbing the metal hydraulic lines. Do I need a stubby flare nut wrench or something. I'm thinking of cutting the hose and using a deep socket to take it off. If I do that I hope putting the new hose will not be a problem.

I rebuilt the slave cylinder. When I removed the rubber boot the recess where the push rod goes was filled with gritty road sand. That can't be good? I cleaned everything and shined the piston with a scrubbing pad. The rebuild kit I bought only contained a new boot and a new rubber piston seal, (called cup piston in Bentley). Is that all that goes bad? I put everything back together (it was real easy) piston seems to work OK.

Would really like a tip on removing the slave hydraulic hose.

Thanks.

Larry, lots of people cut the hose as you suggest. That nut on the top side that you have to hold while you turn the hose fitting seems to be a weird size, at least on my car. I ended up taking an old wrench that was just a little small and filing it to fit.

I use a 24mm socket on the nut, coming down from on top (I pull the distributor first). 15/16 should be the same. Impossible to swing a open end that size from underneath.

Lots of people but the hose, but I would be wary of doing so just in case the new hose doesn't work out. If the old hose is still in one piece, then you can re-use it until you can get another replacement.

Been a while since I had to do one but I seem to remember using a crow's foot to get it loose.

I did this very thing today.

I used a vice grip to hold the large nut, then backed off the small nut that attaches the metal pipe (12mm or 13mm), then completed removal.

For reassembly I attached all hoses with the slave unattached, then bolted it onto the tranny and check the connections for tightness.

Good video on bleeding here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/mosstv/mosstv_clutch.html

I HIGHLY recommend the Gunnison EziBleed for the clutch fluid. I bled once and it only took me a few minutes. No fussing around pumping and NO AIR in my system. Perfect and easy-peasy. Spend the $$ on it - you won't be disappointed!!

Tim

Did this last summer.

The connection to the hard clutch line on my early car was a 7/16" line wrench. If you attempt to do this with an open ended wrench the odds are you will need a new line. I cleaned the nut carefully and gently tapped the wrench on. On my car it it necessary to remove the starter for access.

Then the fancy trick is to put an impact socket on the top nut on the hose where attached to the body. A quick blip and it is off. If you try a regular socket first the trick does not work.

If the impact wrench does not work you can cut the hose off from below and use a deep socket to make life easier. However with the starter off the access to the lower nut is OK.

Be sure to replace the copper washers on fittings. One on the master banjo t\fitting and one at the slave.

Whatever you do, disconnect the battery first. You're right there where the starter connections are. I know from experience that its easy to cause a few very unwanted sparks......

Remove the starter. This will make it at least possible!

A new hose is $8.50. Why run any risk - I'd just replace it. Basil