With about 300 miles on my 72B since I purchased it I notice my clutch is slipping. I installed a new slave cylinder, still slips on exceleration and on hills. If I put a new clutch in can the tranny come out without removing the engine? Any tips? Thanks for all your help in getting me on the road!! Bob
clutch slipping
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MY view is, pull the engine and tranny, change all seals, change clutch, do whatever else needs doing while the engine is out. The re-assemble and drive it. Keep in mind though this could turn into a full resto! LOL
your clutch has gone to heaven. pull the engine and transmission and replace clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing. at least replace the rear engine oil seal. pulling just the transmission by itself is not really that big a deal and you should have no problems as long as you don't plan on putting it back in the car. in other words do yourself a big favor and pull em both.
Didn't read the other posts above but...
Yank the whole thing. IMHO it is easier doing it that way than just the engine. Others will disagree though. In my experience the transmission will not come out by itself.
Replace the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing in the back of the crank.
Jack
As said before, pull the whole thing. It is not that hard or expensive (carefull of the 'might-as-wells').
the whole thing, and do or at least inspect oil seals as well. these are cheap to do while apart. check flywheel for scoring and resurface as required. if it is in your plan, that woiudl also be the time to lighten it.
Pull the whole thing and then split the gearbox off the engine. Replace the clutch and machine mating surface of the flywheel. Replace the throwout bearing and check the throwout bearing fork hinge point. Replace the engine rear seal if you have any suspison that it is leaking. Replace the gearbox front seal and gasket. Check your ring gear. If it's looking tired then replace that as well.
Russ
i managed to get the trans off without pulling the engine(painful because of the starter motor housing bulge), but its almost impossible to re-align everything while your under the car. just pull both, its wayy easier.
cheers, Alistair
twigworker Wrote:
Didn't read the other posts above but...
Yank the whole thing. IMHO it is easier doing it that way than just the engine. Others will disagree though. In my experience the transmission will not come out by itself.
Replace the disc, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing in the back of the crank.
Jack
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Yes to pulling the whole thing as a lump...if you just pull the trany make sure you have an old splined input shaft to line up the pressureplate/clutch assembly otherwise you will be under the car uttering the most unpleasant words!
My question is what do folks think of the roller/ballbearing release bearing that replaces the carbon design?
I suggest rebuilding your heater box while you are at it. Get a new uprated core and motor and put it in while the engine is out. MUCH easier.
Thanks guys. I will pull the entire unit. Only 42000 on the engine, no leaks! I will change the seals and bearings too. I hope the new parts are as good as the old ones. Bob
MGB FOR ME Wrote:
My question is what do folks think of the roller/ballbearing release bearing that replaces the carbon design?
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I have one in my car. It was in it when I bought it 15 yrs ago. Never has given me any trouble. I have no idea where it came from though since I didn't buy it and I've never seen them in the catalogs.
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