Cooling Update

Been fretting over a warm runner in the 77B. Just assume somethings not right when she runs to the right side of N with a 160 in place, even cruising on a cool night. Maybe nothing, but, so far, I've added Water Wetter, which seemed not to help. Next idea is to remove the radiator and bring it in for flow testing and reaming ("we don't boilem anymore", was the response I got on the phone!), and see what happens from there. While that's being done, I'll reset the plug gaps, and check the timing yet again. Right now it's wicked advanced, so I'll bring it back to earth and see if that does anything, although it doesn't make sense that it would. Failing any improvement from all of this, I'll live with it until winter and then tear the head off and maybe change the pump. HG is only a year old so I figure that's OK. Got a great deal on a fiberglass front air dam from the MG Guys in Bangor! Arrived in 2 days. Maybe that will help!!!

at least it'll make yo feel better

Out of curiosity, have you checked your temperature sender, and wiring? Could be an inaccurate reading....

Dan set the timing and plugs back to "default" or as they should be. Over heating can come from a few places and you have hit on all but the heater core beingplugged.....while the rad is out being cleaned put two long hoses on the heater core inlet and outlet...and then on the out side fix a hose to it and slowly turn on the water till it starts to bubble out the inlet side of course it is long enough to clear the engine and fenders and not make a mess on the paint. happy trails

Advanced timing can cause a bit of extra heat, but retarded timing can make it run hotter than a firecracker!! I'm with Jerry, set it where it is supposed to be, around 10' advanced!! Yhe heater core can not really come into the equation, because you will not have it circulating thru there right now anyway!! Your control valve shuts it off! Head gasket??? HMMMM!! A year old?? Was it retorqed after it was run?? What kind of gasket??? Anyway, it looks like you are on the right track!! GOOD LUCK!!!!!!

Once you've set everything back to factory specs, you're overheating problem is one of the below:
1) Rad needs cleaning/recoring/repair
2) Water pump not working fast enough
3) Thermostat
4) Radiator cap leaking at overflow tank
5) Heater core needs cleaning/repairing
6) Hoses collapsed internally
7) Engine block's water channels need backflushing
8) Electric fans not coming on automatically as designed
...also, have you removed your ZS's water 'choke' & replaced the hoses with a bypass hose? If so, replace the water 'choke' after you clean/adjust it......

...all the Watter Wetter, fiberglass air dams, auxiliary fans, etc are just band aids on something that's not working correctly!

I'll give 10-1 odds it's the radiator.

Tom, I would bet on that too! I had the same problem awhile back and after having the radiator repaired --- well, no more problem. Runs great and temp never goes past dead center even on the hottest days.

Tom....you noticed in what order I put things on my list above....I'm with you on radiator...

...I can't for the life of me figure out why everybody tries to make all kinds of modifications to keep their MG from overheating....MG's DO NOT OVERHEAT! When something goes wrong on any car, problems arise...on MG's, heating problems are quickly perceptible if 1 component of the system isn't doing what its supposed to...why we don't just fix that problem is beyond me....

...&, the factory LE air dams weren't designed to enhance cooling....they were just something to make that car stand out from all the others (heck, the air dams weren't even British but were all made in the US & initially installed only on cars for the US & Canada by dealers on this side of the ocean...even the LE cars in the UK had their front air dams imported from the US!)....yes, air dams can help marginally with high speed handling by forcing the car down a bit; but, they only force a little air through the area below the radiator duct panel into the area where an oil cooler would be were it hanging upside down under that panel - they don't contribute much air (if any) to the radiator!

I'm with Tony - but I am not convinced this car is actually oveheating!

Memory tells me that the electic temp gauges on these care are notoriously innacurate (note that they do not put a temperature on the gauge!). Mine runs just to the right of the N (needle partially obscures the N) most of the time, but does go a little higher when in slow traffic and the electric fan is set to kick on at that point. I have a 160 'stat. If it gets too hot, I turn on the heater!

If you really want to know, throw away the temp sender and gauge and install a mechanical gauge with the long copper tube and bulb that goes in the head.