well according to the previous info, I may be in the market for a new cyl. head for the 70b, the leakage is turning out to be just a larger drop than originally, thought, but not certain just yet. My question is, I may need a new cyl head, I saw on the web site of britishmiles.com an aluminum one for $689 loaded, how is this possible when I see approx. $1200 at most places While I am at it where would be the best place to look for this purchase. Thanks Dennis
cyl. head
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I'm going to have to follow his post, as my head is getting magnufluxed tomorrow. What are the advantages to an aluminum head over the regular cast ones, other than resistance to cracking?
Perhaps a call to Sean Brown. He's a member of this board and works on P&P heads.
I was wondering the same thing. I thought it was a bit strange. You would think that a smaller comany would be MORE expensive than Victoria British or Moss. The Alloy ones are half the weight and cool better. I have read posts on this site that say that the cast iron ones have thermal retension, wich equals more power. Alloy just gets rid of the heat, wich is not always desirable.
peace, Kyle
I am more interested in one that will not crack, this is one situation that I hoped would never had happen, but it is 37 years old. Dennis70
You know.....I bought a fast road head from Peter Burgess in the UK, and a complete head (delivered) was less than a grand. And it's a Burgess head no less!
mg1340 Wrote:
You know.....I bought a fast road head from Peter Burgess in the UK, and a complete head (delivered) was less than a grand. And it's a Burgess head no less!
"
What was the conversion rate at the time, could make a big difference in the price, but I'm going to have to look into that possibility, Moss and VB both want 1300 for a new assembled alloy head. Any idea how to get in touch with him?
look to the investment in an alloy head, you will not be diappointed.
The alloy head is not bad but it's not designed for power. I loaned Sean Brown one of my aluminum heads a few months ago to play with and see if it'll make any power. I don't know if he's done his esxperiment or not yet. Hiow about it Sean, any luck?
But the alloy head will not have the thermal retention of iron so it just won't be as efficient. But if you break it, it's easy to repair and it is lighter. You gotta figure which is more important to you. If you're in the market for an iron head, I have about 30 of them. I bought two with new valve jobs on them a while back and sold one and still have the other. I can't recall if I sold the smog head or the non-smog head - I had one of each ready to go. But I also have good rebuildable cores if you need them. Make sure yours is toast before investing in a new one. Best of luck. Basil
Hey Dennis,
Are you leaking right above the dizzy? If so, this doesn;t at all mean that you have to buy a new head. It is very, very common for the MGB heads to have some coolant seepage from out of the head gasket right above where the dizzy is.
It probably just means that you need a new head gasket coming up.
The head gaskets of today are far better than the ones of old. They made from superior components and seal much better.
Get whats called a Payen Head Gasket.
You can get one form Lamar at Atlanta Imported Auto Parts.
<http://atlantaimported.com/home.htm>
Lamar's a great guy and will point you in the right direction everytime. He's been doing this for a while. Plus, he's gives a great discount on the Moss Parts. But, he'll source superior parts to Moss in many cases. In any event, he'll let you know which way is best to go and leave it up to you to decide.
This may end up just being a $30 head gasket
Good Luck
I would like to think that, a bead of AF forms on top of the cyc. head, beneath the valve cover, then leaks down the side of the cyl. head to the 3rd spark plug, then ground. I trust the opionons from the people who replied in my previous post that the head is cracked. I too was hoping the gasket, being the great mechanic that I am ha ha Thank you Dennis70
Be careful about British Miles. They don't have the best reputation.
Dennis, I also have a spare '70 engine in my garage. I haven't pulled the head and don't know it's condition, but I could pull it and have it magged next week when I get back from cleveland.
john that will be great, I will be willing to pay the cost of anything involved call me and we can work it out 3939204, I already PM Sean Brown, about the situation and he will be getting back to me, I would still like to get together about my timing issue, please give me a call when you get back Thank you so much for your concern and help Dennis
The alloy heads are fine for stock replacement applications. They're marketed as flowing 30% better than stock (which the intakes do) but the exhaust flow is much worse than the stock cast head.
brownsgolf Wrote:
mg1340 Wrote:Quote:
You know.....I bought a fast road head from Peter Burgess in the UK, and a complete head (delivered) was less than a grand. And it's a Burgess head no less!
What was the conversion rate at the time, could make a big difference in the price, but I'm going to have to look into that possibility, Moss and VB both want 1300 for a new assembled alloy head. Any idea how to get in touch with him?
"
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/peterburgess/
Basil Adams Wrote:
The alloy head is not bad but it's not designed for power. I loaned Sean Brown one of my aluminum heads a few months ago to play with and see if it'll make any power. I don't know if he's done his esxperiment or not yet. Hiow about it Sean, any luck?
"
Not yet Basil, you'll indeed be of the first few to know however. I'll post some pictures when I get things going. Yours is not the only "loner" on hand for that project, there are some very patient board members here who are kindly helping out. This has become quite the group effort..
Sean
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