MGB: Dan "The Fitman" Paint Job

In an answer to your question about a retired painter going to paint your car for $600.00. Take it. Companies like MAACO and U.S. Auto Body want almost $500 for a paint job. And for the most part anyone who has gone that route has had to repaint because the job was not done right. I would suspect you buy the paint, right? The $600 is his labor. I would also ask him to see something he did, just so you can see his work. A "decent" paint job for a show car is well over 3 to 4 grand. And that is even be on the cheap side.
Ken

Let me tell you, its easy to get a cheap paint job. Its not easy to get a cheap paint job that you can live with. You need to see the painter's work before you commit - and it has to be a job that he did for a similar price, so you know how much time he's going to put into it. If he screws it up, its going to cost a LOT more to fix it than a good paint job would have cost in the first place.

I concur. I'm only "kicking-the-idea" around currently - as this 77's primary use is for a fully operational Overdrive that I fixed! **[Rock and Roll]

I'm going to give the guy the "21" questions about his paint, and trust this, he'll either be annoyed at my truthful picky questions, or...be amused and happy that someone cares enough to spend their money wisely - and maybe - he does a good job, the right way, in a quality sense, for the proported amount of $599. We'll see. In many ways - I would just rather have the soft-ball size dent fixed on the leading edge of the bonnet and the crack on the underbelly of the boot (at the prop) and a set of rack holes as well (or to-boot!). The rest of the body is straight as a pin - original doors, fenders and zero and I mean, zero rust in floor pans, sills and trunk. So - depending upon how vested I want to get into - this car - before I sell it in the spring, she'll certainly be in way better shape when it departs from my household. I do like the white I must say. I used my Porter Cable Buffer on the fenders and bonnet the other night - with paint cleaner and swirl remover (from Meguiar's) and let me tell you, I was able to bring that dirty paint and shine back many levels. If I spent 10 hours, (compared to the 100) I've spent on my Red 79 B) and that paint is 15 years old - I could bring this paint back too.

Question : Can the dent be feasibly fixed in the bonnet, crack in Boot - and be 'feathered' in (bonnet) with white paint to be able to not be too noticeable? Versus painting the entire car?

The sides of the car are in good shape, and none of the paint is peeling, missing, no large scratches, and no rust.

**Disclosure : the nature of Dan's over-the-top pumped up attitude is strangely inherent, though he must credit the many friends he has here that helped his dim views of electrics, though now, he's seeing some of the light as it pertains to testing wires, sheesh! Thank you again - and thanks to my brother Jeff! I still can't get over the fact that I, yes...I have an overdrive...is it true, really - it is....[size=x-large][color=#FF0000]YES![/color][/size]

The unfortunate truth:

A quality MG paint job, if you remove all the trim, is going to cost $3-5k. Just the paint and material alone will be close to $1k.

I paid somewhere around 3000 for the paint job on my Morris Minor. It was the lowest quote from about 5 body shops. The car was 100% disassembled and no masking was needed. I got precisely what I paid for...It definitely could be better, and I still had to get parts re-painted.

My MGA has a much better paint job--color sanded urethane. It was a total disassembly too, and it cost a lot, but I am almost happy with how it turned out and how well it is lasting up over 8 or 10 years so far.

Listen to Jeff... I believe he had a post not to long ago about a retired painter who he had do some work... and the results were less then desirable . Was that you Jeff ?? I can't remember, but I think that was the jist of it.


BTW, did you ever get that air cleaner assembly Dan?


John

If the softball size dent has no sharp edges or paint damaged, try the paintless dent pushers.

I am sure you could feather and touch up the bit on the boot lid with a rattle can.

John, yep I had my paint done recently and its going to cost at least $4k to fix it. Bummer.

Only really, really experienced old-timers can blend a single-stage enamel into old paint. Its one of the most difficult things to pull off. At least white is easier to hide defects with, so a bad paint job will gook great in the bright sun!

Why is this original car enamel?

A retired bodyman that still wants to paint a car. Interesting concept. I just turned 57. Been at this since I was 15yo. Most mornings it takes me an hour and a half to walk straight up. I can't see a damn thing close up without reading glasses. Wonder if they make a welding helmet with magnifying glass?? It's really fun laying down clearcoat and cleaning the overspray off the glasses between coats. Anyhow, God bless this guy whomever he is. If I ever get to retire (doubtful) I sure won't be looking to paint cars in my spare time!!!!

The $599 price tag sounds funny from a retired guy too.

Sounds like what a discount quick blow over auto paint franchise would offer.

Turn the wipers on and drive thru the booth.

We have to remember that.. I believe... Dan is doing this for resale. I thought his plan was to take out the OD, switch it over to his car, install his old 4 speed into the 77 , then sell it. This way he gets a free OD and maybe some cash in his pocket. So if that is the case, I wouldn't spend to much money on a paint job. Make it look good and sell it... let the new owner deal with failing paint down the road ;)

[quote=Wasper]
We have to remember that.. I believe... Dan is doing this for resale. I thought his plan was to take out the OD, switch it over to his car, install his old 4 speed into the 77 , then sell it. This way he gets a free OD and maybe some cash in his pocket. So if that is the case, I wouldn't spend to much money on a paint job. Make it look good and sell it... let the new owner deal with failing paint down the road ;)[/quote]

I think he mentioned a friend buying it. Maybe Ex-friend.:eyepop:

Cheap paintjobs can be done. I've seen cars (I've done a few - but finished generally with enamel) that have been sanded with 320 wet paper and then sprayed with 2k and they look fine after a good cut/polish.

Three years ago I resprayed my everyday work car(which has lived all its life with me outside in all weathers & got a number of positive comments) for under $200.
I got a really good deal on the 2k undercoat and the topcoat was a mismatch (I really liked the colour) from an auto paint place for $40 for three litres - which was more than enough for the whole car.
I did do all the prep work myself and sprayed it (a couple of panels at a time) in my driveway.

But, as others have said, ask Qs and see a car he's completed for a similar price.

Paul ;-)

I've blended many paints and type of paint ...Laq, Acrylic enamel and the most difficult DuPont Imron Polyurethane. It takes a special skill to blend and look good. Ask many questions.

[quote=B-racer]
John, yep I had my paint done recently and its going to cost at least $4k to fix it. Bummer.

Only really, really experienced old-timers can blend a single-stage enamel into old paint. Its one of the most difficult things to pull off. At least white is easier to hide defects with, so a bad paint job will gook great in the bright sun![/quote]

Yo guys,

Okay - I went out there and spoke to the guy - his name is Harold Lee, from Virginia and he's been at it since back in the early 50's. He's owned shops, and started painting bicycles when he was 16 with a bug sprayer!:eyepop:

I saw his work - and for $600 it aint bad, (and is decent in fact). He uses Acrylic Enamel (Sherwin Williams) among other paints.

I said if I have him paint, I wouldn't want a clear coat, a one-stage paint, just I have on my 79. I don't want a clear coat - as if it fails - ya can't get to the color below to fix it - as a user like me (with my Porter Cable). I did "fix" the issues and oxidation on my 79 with hours upon hours of use with my Porter Cable Buffer - and the paint looks really really good, helped me win 1st in 2008 at the ABFM. (I didn't enter this year because it was raining frogs)...didn't want to drive without the top down...so I went but didn't drive the B - a huge heartbreak! :moody:

I toured his digs - and he works out in Banks Oregon - on some large spot of land - with what looks like Army Barracks. He had one guy work'n for him. He said he'd fix the dent in the hood and and the crack below the trunk for $50.

He sands the existing paint down, but not too far - the does a coat of primer, sealer, then two coats of color, period.

I know of his work too - through British Auto Works, in North Plains Oregon; they used him several years ago - until his shops closed, Five Star Body and Paint.

He did move a bit slow - but not too bad (from a fitness coach) perspective. He was friendly - a good fellow looked like. His wife called him while we were meeting, so he's got a social network in place. I talked to British Autoworks in person, (Stan) and he said, as long as I stripe the car of all protruding parts - I'll probably get a good paint job.

I'm going to think about it...as I have a lot to do on this White 77 before I decide. At BAW, I got a used a Turn Signal Switch, Firewall rubber plug, wheel center piece, MG Emblem, Emblems for the wheels, 3 seat screws and spacers and a couple other things...she's coming together!

There is an ex body guy here in town who will paint a car for $800; I buy the paint, strip the car of what I don't want painted, and do not expect bodywork. He does not do bodywork. His only guarentee is that it will be the color you chose. That said, his paint weathered a summer and a winter outside with no ill effects. He did the sanding and prep.

How much extra if priming is required?

[quote=chris]
There is an ex body guy here in town who will paint a car for $800; I buy the paint, strip the car of what I don't want painted, and do not expect bodywork. He does not do bodywork. His only guarentee is that it will be the color you chose. That said, his paint weathered a summer and a winter outside with no ill effects. He did the sanding and prep.[/quote]

geez.... that's not a bad deal Chris... heck, maybe when I'm ready, I could drive out with a boot load of paint.... could I pitch my tent on your back deck? LOL!!

Jennifer looks good, Lou

I think she looks a little cold.

I hear duelling banjoes in the background of this paint job.

He doesn't take it to bare metal so little priming is needed. Lou, we can put you up in Jane's spare Toyota s/w.

[quote=mrkenmgb]
A "decent" paint job for a show car is well over 3 to 4 grand. And that is even be on the cheap side.[/quote]

Yeah, I'd say that's definitly way[/u] on the cheap side for anything that carries the moniker "show car". As someone else said, the materials alone cost nearly $1000 for a single-stage paint job nowadays, and most shops charge up in the $100+/hr range.

A buddy of mine just had his Cortina painted ([u]very nice, 2-tone base coat clear coat). He shopped around all the high-end shops in the LA area and settled on one that was in the "average" range......it cost him around $11k.

Having said that, I just had my Cortina done (2-tone, single stage) with a nice drive level job, and it cost me about $3k with materials.

special for you just today

a presidential paint job just 299 $

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The car looks ok, I'd just drive it and patch any rusty chipped spots with a spray can of white and polish out the rest as best possible and leave the dents. Perfect paint is a PITA as there are always flaws. With this car, it will look good unless your nose is super close and there are no worries driving in rain and snow. IMHO $600 is best spent on making the car mechanically perfect, or making the interior (the part you see when you drive) perfect.

[quote=Benny]
[quote=mrkenmgb]
A "decent" paint job for a show car is well over 3 to 4 grand. And that is even be on the cheap side.[/quote]

Yeah, I'd say that's definitly way[/u] on the cheap side for anything that carries the moniker "show car". As someone else said, the materials alone cost nearly $1000 for a single-stage paint job nowadays, and most shops charge up in the $100+/hr range.

A buddy of mine just had his Cortina painted ([u]very nice, 2-tone base coat clear coat). He shopped around all the high-end shops in the LA area and settled on one that was in the "average" range......it cost him around $11k.

Having said that, I just had my Cortina done (2-tone, single stage) with a nice drive level job, and it cost me about $3k with materials.[/quote]

?Ah huh...see my posting and photo earlier.
Paul ;-)

After all's said and done here, I'm NOT going to get it painted cheaply. I failed to mention, when I went to talk to this guy - I did see one of his painted vehicles. It had plenty of "runs" on the tailgate, (it was a little Samari) jeep sort of vehicle. The paint looked caked on sort of, with a spatchula. The shope conditions were sort of like a Meth-lab too, real dirty, dusty and God knows where he's recycling all those open cans of paint. When he uncovered a container of paint, it had a funnel covering it only.

I guess I was emotionally "overlooking" those important facts, as I had my mind set sort of, of getting my White 77 painted. After I came back to reality - hence this post - I can use my Porter-Cable Buffer and bring back-to-life in may ways - the paint. I already did the bonnet and front fenders and they look pretty darn good.

I am going to get the dent fixed on the bonnet and holes in the boot (by a dent specialist) or take the bonnet into a shop and get it fixed that way.

Yes, the interior is going to be nice, and mechanically she's more than 1/2 way there. She runs, starts right up, drives, brakes well, and all electrics work well. It is original white paint.

Thanks for the sound advice men. Now to go for my Sunday morning run!! B)

Dan you can get a body shop to conputer match the paint. I purchased a orange sort of red 75 for my son that had the boot lid and hood in primer. The car had a repaint that looked good for a driver and was probably Maico. But while I don't recall the color name I didn't know how close a match would be as it was a repaint. I had a paint shop mix up a quart of single stage urethane using a computer scan from the door. My son sprayed here at home and it is so close you have to be told and look at it in the bright sun to see the difference. Oh, I did buff it out for him. I think white would be even easier.
John