does anybody have a Weber 34/34?

What do you think?

Hi Byran,

I seen your other post asking about a Weber 34/34 and no one replied there. I think your not getting replies because the Weber 32/36 is a more popular conversion choice among MG owners. The 34/34, I believe , is a progressive carburetor just like the 32/36.

This means only one barrel opens up in the initial travel of the throttle. The second barrel opens up farther in the throttle travel. This is a good set-up for fuel economy, for as long as you take it easy, your only using one barrel and saving on gas. But, when you want to punch it, the second barrel opens and gives you a nice boost. The number call out is the throat size.. so a 34/34 has two 34mm throats (or barrels) in it. A 32/36 has a 32mm primary throat and a 36mm secondary. So, for economy, a lot of people like the 32/36 because most of the time your only sipping gas through the 32mm side under regular driving. Really, the two are close when both barrels are open.. it equals out at that point, but you gain the gas economy when using the 32/36.

The SU's used in earlier MGB's were not progressive and the throat size was closer to 38mm. So, if you were looking for performance over fuel economy, then perhaps you should look into the Weber "Outlaw" 38/38 carburetor. This carburetor is not progressive and is close to the throat size of a SU setup. Performance still most likely goes to the SU's, as the are side drafts and the MGB engine will breath better then a utilizing that configuration then a downdraft configuration.. But, the performance would be close all the same.

There is one member I found on these forums, after searching around, that says he has a Weber 34/34 on his car. Perhaps you can send him a private message to get more information on these carburetors.

His Member ID is : tgbmd ( <-- click)

Hope this helps some,

John

I have a 34/34 runs to rich even with a jet change. go with a 32/36

Thanks I ordered a 32/36 but they made a mistake and sent me th 34/34. I was wondering if I should just keep it. I have a stock 79 B. Is it better on the bottom end?

Is it just fowling plugs are running like crap?

Well, the 34/34 carburetors are generally cheaper then a 32/36.. I think if you paid for a 32/36, then you should get a 32/36.

I have the outlaw 38 DGAS with a pacesetter headder/exhaust. It gets crappy mpg, but has a little better low end. I've got mine running a little too rich and need to back the jets off a little. When I built the engine I asked myself, economy or performance in a sports car...Hummmmm...

Good luck.

Hi guys, been away for a while. I had a 32/36 on my 79, it was on it when I bought it. It got around 23 mpg and had a bad hesitation in it when you took off and between gear shifts. I replaced the whole system with a pair of SUs and it now gets 29 mpg and runs like a champ. I now have a Weber door stop! My 72 with SUs gets 30 mpg and plenty of power. I've never seen a 32/36 or 34/34 Weber perform as well as a pair of SUs on an MG engine. Hard to beat the original design. PJ

I had a 32/36 on my 79, it was on it when I bought it. It got around 23 mpg and had a bad hesitation in it when you took off and between gear shifts.

You probably only had to change out a couple of $4 jets and your problems would have went away.

When I rebuilt mine, because it sat for 15 years, I changed the jets, replaced a few gaskets and properly set the floats. The car now gets great gas mileage and no hesitation. The total cost was $26 (rebuild kit + jets). You can't beat that.. a carburetor that sat for 15 years and a novice like me was able to rebuild it for next to nothing and in about 2 hours.. that says something for the robustness and ease of these Weber carburetors.

But, you are correct that the SU's are the way to go if your looking for proper British performance.

Please correct me if I am wrong. I think the "WEBER 34/34" is a Brazilian carb branded as WEBER but designed and made by a company not related to WEBER (Spain). I even called an office in Madrid and they do NOT know or make the product called 34/34

This is the list of European built Weber carbs - originally designed and engineered in Italy by Weber and now being made in Spain

34ICT

32/36 DGV

32/36 DGEV

32/36 DFEV

38DGAS

40IDF

44IDF

48IDF

50IDF

40DCOE

45DCOE

48DCOE

50DCOE

55DCOE

[quote=MGuy]

Please correct me if I am wrong. I think the "WEBER 34/34" is a Brazilian carb branded as WEBER but designed and made by a company not related to WEBER (Spain). I even called an office in Madrid and they do NOT know or make the product called 34/34

This is the list of European built Weber carbs - originally designed and engineered in Italy by Weber and now being made in Spain

34ICT

32/36 DGV

32/36 DGEV

32/36 DFEV

38DGAS

40IDF

44IDF

48IDF

50IDF

40DCOE

45DCOE

48DCOE

50DCOE

55DCOE[/quote]

That's right. I believe the 34/34 is a Solex with a Weber paper label.

Well, I've got one and I like it. And until I started screwing with it I was getting over 30 mpg on the highway and good driveability around town but I just couldn't resist trying to make it better. For one thing I screwed up the float level, which is very touchy, and it looks like I will have to buy a kit to get the correct info on getting it set right as there just doesn't seem to be as much info on the web about these carbs as there is for the 32/36. As soon as the weather clears up enough to start driving it again I will get back on the carb and see just how good they can be. I have access to an Innovate wide band A/F meter which helped me get it part way unscrewed last fall. I have my wife drive and I make notes of the readings and condition such as cruising, WOT, etc.. Our engine is .040 over, the heads been milled at least twice, and I had it decked enough to clean up the corossion marks. We are running a Delta KC regrind with a lot more lift and a little more duration and a Rivergate 5 speed, and a Jeff's distributor. I did some minor port work using Eastwoods sandpaper roll kit and a 1/4" die grinder.

The carb really isn't that touchy as I had it plenty rich and it made good power but the mileage was down quite a bit. It ran well to Breckinridge, yes it lost some power at altitude but no more than anybody else, and back plus a couple of trips into Canada for various drives.

As for whether or not this is a "true" Weber, it depends on who you talk too. All I know is that it mixes fuel and air and I can call Jose at Webercarbsdirect (866-679-3237) and get whatever I think I need in the way of jets and parts. You do have to make some shims to go behind the thick washers that hold down the intake and the center portion of the exhaust manifold because the flanges on the included intake are a little thinner than stock. I have seen where this is true with several aftermarket intakes as well as some non-stock exhaust manifolds so it is no big deal as long as you're aware of it.

Joe

Hmmm. Now I have to look again. All I know fer certain is mine is a dual barrel, NOT a progressive so it's some kind of "outlaw" type unit. And BOY is it hard to get proper rebuild kits, not to mention decent maintenance articles/books!

[quote=mjamgb]

Hmmm. Now I have to look again. All I know fer certain is mine is a dual barrel, NOT a progressive so it's some kind of "outlaw" type unit. And BOY is it hard to get proper rebuild kits, not to mention decent maintenance articles/books![/quote]

If it is the 38/38 Outlaw DGAS/DGES the book for overhauling is the standard Weber Carburetor Manual by Haynes, book # 10240. The rebuild kits are everywhere. An assortment of jets and emulsion tubes in a little red case would also cost about $80. The 34/34 DGAS is also disassembled and overhauled in the Haynes manual. Both carbs mentioned are in Chapter 9.

Most folks that have rebuilt a ZS or SU carb will have this book as it covers them too.

[quote=Bealey]

As for whether or not this is a "true" Weber, it depends on who you talk too. All I know is that it mixes fuel and air and I can call Jose at Webercarbsdirect (866-679-3237) and get whatever I think I need in the way of jets and parts. Joe[/quote]

It is branded as Weber (legally) but it is not made in Spain and is NOT a Weber design. It is a Solex (which is not bad) Magneti Marelli (Italy) owns Weber. Webercarbsdirect has no affiliation, other than keeping licensing and manufacturing agreements with Magneti Marelli. What is the difference of a Weber Built in Europe and others made in Mexico, China and Brazil? I am not sure.

Weber Carbs Direct sells European Webers and also some other carburetors legally branded AS Webers but produced by Solex and other companies in Mexico and Brazil. They also say that they produce some �Webers� in the US, but I do not know of any manufacturing of Webers in this country.

In sum, as far as I know the 34/34 is a carburetor (Solex design?) produced by Interco Products Corp. in South America. People tell me that is a good carburetor and that given the low manufacturing costs is also a economical option.

Check this:

http://www.webcon.co.uk/Downloads/Genuine%20Weber.PDF

Hey MGuy,

That was very informative and will certainly be a help to future folks who rummage in the archives looking for guidance about an upcoming carb purchase. And as you can see, Bob, it is a 34/34 DGEC instead of the DGAS which obviously is not in the Haynes manual as it isn't a true Weber. The point is that the carb has worked well for me and I think it can be made even better with a little more tuning. Since it appears that most of the Weber's aren't optimized right out of the box I just really don't see the importance of whether it is a "true" Weber or not.

By the way MGuy, what is the car in your avatar? It looks French but it could be the color that makes me say that.

Joe

It is a 1969 Lotus Elan plus 2....

I agree with you about the relative importance of whether it is a "true" Weber or not. But one of the reasons this is not as a popular carb (compared to the 32/36) is precisely that. Having said that, I would also say than the 34/34 seems like a very nice in-the-midle option between the 32/36 and the 38/38. Perfect is you do not like the thirsty 38/38. Again owners that use the 34/34 are happy. I went the 38/38 option and have driven the car only 120 miles since. I will report of my experience after a month or so.