Door Alignment

I purchased new fuzzy door seals to go with my new spiffy interior. Once in place the door would not close. I tried adjusting the latch on the b piller, It's still tough to close and now the bottom 1/2 of the door is sticks out beyond the body. Lindsay Porter tweeks the door with a rubber mallet. Is that is way to go, or are their other adustments I can make with the hinges on the A piller?

I also assume the door seals will eventually compress.

TIA

Also, is there a way to replace the outside rubber seals on the doors without removing the glass?

Sorry guys, I just did a search with "Door Adjustment" rather than "Door Alignment" as see this has been discussed. I will try tweeking it, but I'm not sure how I can tweek the top part of the door away, rather than the bottom.

JDW - I read a thread where you were discussing this (I think), but could't get your instrutions right in my brain.

John,
I understand you used the Prestige carpet kit. What did you use for glue?
Did you install the OEM snaps? And how was the tranny tunnel fit, any problems getting it to lie down correctly?
I have had my carpet set still in the box since Feb, and will eventually need to install it.

Thanks for any info.

Ed

I'm very happy with the Kit, The tranny cover has heavy backing and I haven't gotten it to completely lay on the tunnel yet. But I don't have a center console, so I doesn't seem to be that big of a deal... yet! I also haven't wrestled with the shifter bezel either. I'm thinking that I might use trim screws to screw the tunnel carpet to the floor plan if all else fails and I can't get it tight enough.

The flat carpet when over the wheel arches with no problem. I haven't gotten to the snaps yet. I am going to see if I can find some at a local boating store. For glue I used 3-M Super Trim adhesive #08090. $13 a bottle at Advance Auto! Took two good cans for the carpet and trim.

Good luck, the change was amazing.

Also installed the Prestige kit in my 72B.

I struggled a bit with the tunnel carpet because of the heavy backing. I laid this piece over the tunnel and just kept pressure on it for a few days until it kind of moulded itself. I ended up NOT gluing this piece down. Now that the console, seats are back in, everything seems to be holding in place just fine.

John, I still have the same problem and don't quite know how to fix it. I'm hesitant to use a mallet, especially when I just repainted.

P.S. My local Ace hardware had the snaps, though they did not realize it when I asked for them.

Greg - So they are snaps w/o a head or button?

Greg/John - I remember Danny at Prestige said the the tranny tunnel would be stiff with the backing and that eventually it would mould itself to the tunnel with use and heat from the car. We'll see.

I 'adjust' the lip that the door seals clamp on to, rather than adjust the doors. Just angle them back toward the inside of the car a tad, and they'll work fine. If your doors close well without the strips, don't mess with them. Adjust the lip!!

Do you have the correct seals? When I bought seals for my MG1100, they sent me MGB seals...way to big for door to close....

I got fuzzy seals. Orginally my car had all rubber seals. Supposably, both should work. I compared the new and the old and they look close in size, but the old ones have been off the car for years and are quite deteriorated.

If only the bottom is sticking out, which is what my passenger door is doing, and what I understood John's door is doing, I wouldn't think that the seals are the sole problem.

Tony, I just double checked the Moss catalog, it said fuzzy seals were used until '72, '73 onward had rubber seals. So I think I have the right ones. It's possible the PO adusted the doors for the old worn out rubber seals.

But, I'm like Greg B. The bottoms of my doors are sticking out. :(

I used the rubber seals for the 73. We adjusted the doors to close perfectly before we put the seals on. After the seals were installed the doors took a little more authority to close but after a while they seemed to seat right in. The doors close just fine now. I used furry seals on the Magnette, they've never seated in like the B's seals have. Myabe they're stiffer.

Trust me: Adjust the lip!!! Use a short piece of wood and a mallet, it moves the small amount needed very easily, and doesn't hurt a thing. A lot of the seals we get nowadays are a very different compound than original, and will never compress correctly. If the seal makes your bottom door edge stick out, no amount of adjusting will fix it. Newton is still right; two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time!!!