MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
Been awhile, but I'm back at it. Can anyone give me some insight to e-brakes? Never grabbed well. Bled brakes recently and new shoes and cylinders. if I pull the e-brake lever just inside the drum housing, it moves freely, but really doesn't seem to move the shoe at all. Almost like it needs a shim in between the lever and the shoe slot.
You need to adjust your brakes. Put everything back together and mount the tire. There is a square post on the back side of the drum housing above the axle (my reference is my 1980, I assume yours is the same). Now I use a small 3/8" socket and an allen wrench to do this, I use the allen wrench in the business end of the socket, match sizes, and use the square end of the socket on the square post. turn the square post clock wise, and spin your wheel each 1/4 turn. Keep going until the brakes start to bind the wheel. Then back off 1/4 turn.
Now, check you e-brake and see if it holds. If not, there is an adjustment to the e-brake cable available under the car near where the e-brake brake lever comes through the floor. tighten the bold to take slack out of the e-brake line incrementally, until your e-brake works property.
Almost the right instructions but.... when it starts to bind, DON'T BACK OFF. Keep tightening until the shoe is solid on the drum and you almost can't turn the adjuster. This helps center the shoe and make sure that NOW when you back off a quarter turn, the brake will be adjusted best. As you're backing off the adjuster, it will feel real notchy and one click will make a big difference. Make sure the drum turns freely or back off one more notch and check again.
A 1/4" wrench works on the adjuster as well. I've just been playing with my brakes and this wrench fits. If you got one the actual brake adjuster wrenches, less chance of rounding off the adjuster but it should be loose enough not to worry about that.
I've always replaced the stationary end of the brake shoe with another adjuster. That way you can always keep the entire shoe squared-up to the drum and get even wear. Just a thought. Basil
the adjusting "nut" is 1/4" square.
if you have a 1/4" drive 3/8 12-point socket, you can put the 1/4" part on the "nut" and a 3/8 ratchet in the 12-point end.
I would not use a 3/8 socket on this "nut" because if you round it off, you are hosed until you replace the adjuster. And B rear brakes seem to need frequent adjustment.
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I've always replaced the stationary end of the brake shoe with another adjuster. That way you can always keep the entire shoe squared-up to the drum and get even wear. Just a thought. Basil
great idea thanks Basil
OT how do you guys put the gray shaded boxes behind quotes of previous posts?
Simon and Mac are correct, its a 1/4" drive socket, not 3/8" drive, that fits the square adjustment post.
Do all the above. Also verify that the compensator is moving freely. See the Chicago MG site for information. It maks a difference.
The ultimate tool to adjust the brake is a Sears 3/8" drive 8 point 1/4" socket.
As an asside, the MGB has a parking brake not an e-brake. E-brake indicates it is powerful enough to stop you in an emergency. Most will only if you are patient and have half a mile to work with.
Larry
Derek70mgb Wrote:
ok. I backed off the adjuster, loosened the PARKING BRAKE, aand re bled the brakes. Drums were hardly loose now. Can't back off the adjuster cause it's already backed out. I'm at a loss guys. Should I have the adjuster part way in before I bleed so that I have some room to back it off?
No; the adjusters for the rear brakes and the bleeding process are essentially two distinctly different systems. Bleeding is done to make sure you get all the air out of the brake lines & wheel cylinders. Air is compressible; brake fluid is not. Hence, you don't want air in the system.
The adjusters, set the distance between the rear shoes (at 'rest') and the drum surface. Having an adjustable distance allows the brakes to work effectively as the shoe surface wears away.
If you have the brakes bled, then just work with the adjusters. As others have indicated - Doing one side at a time, with the wheel jacked off the ground (AND the car resting securely on a JACKSTAND!) screw the adjuster 'bolt' out until the wheel won't turn by hand. Then begin to screw it in until the shoes just drag a bit - you'll feel a bit of resistance and hear a bit of dragging.
If the e-brake fails to hold once you've adjusted both sides, then you need to tighten the cable that operates that system. There is a turn-buckle-like arrangement beneath the car, essentially at the end of the e-brake lever.
Pesky task first time, but really isn't hard or technical.
Jim D
Assuming your car has a compensator located on the differential, make sure it turns easily. There shoud be a bearing with the bolt that attaches to the Differential case.
Larry
OK guys I'll go at it again when I have a day. Hopefully Monday. I'm just miffed about the fact that I have the adjusters backed out all the way, and the wheel still won't spin freely. Maybe I'll compress the cylinder first, then put the drum back on and do the adjuster. Bad idea?
tomkatb Wrote:
After re-reading your last post, it occurred to me that you might have an issue with 'leading' / 'trailing' edge of the shoes. Are you sure you have them installed correctly?
Here's a link to a fairly good photo of how they should look...
<http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://suzette.jc-coleman.com/pictures/rear-brake.jpg&imgrefurl=http://suzette.jc-coleman.com/gallery.html&h=461&w=614&sz=52&hl=en&start=16&tbnid=dKGbnjkXSsif4M:&tbnh=102&tbnw=136&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmgb%2Bbrake%2Bshoes%26gbv%3D2%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG>
Jim D
