MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
i should be getting my block back soon,i have a diesel machinist at my job who is going to help me put the bottom end toghter the crank is cut 10 under cylinders are 20 over i am going to have rods checked and am using new rod bolts,oil pump new thrust bearings ect we will mike all journals and bores to determine oil clearances is there any thing else i should be aware of ,the block is a 77 i would like this to be right the first time thanks steve
Have a look at this website
<http://www.octarine-services.fsnet.co.uk/enginebuilding.htm>
You're headed the right direction. Your diesel buddy will know how to feel things out, have him to teach you how as the job progresses. Hands on is the only way you can learn that, no amount of reading can ever convey it. It's saved my buns many a time and I trust it more than I do measuring everything.
Just check your rods for straight!! My twisted rod has cost me thousands!!! Good luck Steve!!!
Steve, be very careful to check new pistons. When my new pistons arrived I found them way out of tolerance. I had to send them back to the dealer for replacement. You would think with today’s machining equipment that wouldn’t be a problem. Check the ring gap to, this stuff makes the difference for a long wearing engine. Good luck
One more oddity about the MG engine: The oil holes on the rods face AWAY from the camshaft. Your diesel mechanic may instinctively try to install them towards the camshaft.
You said a mouth full there David, very important. My B was the first inline engine I ever saw with the oil holes pointing away from the cam, kept me in the books for a little while convincing myself that all the books couldn't be wrong. Larrys suggestion about the ring gaps is most important too, get them too tight and you're in for another bore job at least. They're normally right when the bore job is done correctly, but bears checking for sure anyway.
