engine removal update and suspension!

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Feb 09, 2012 10:38:39
pants007

Hey guy! i was a little nervous today before i started taking the engine out! but it couldn't have gone any better! from putting my sling chains on it took 30 mins! it was prob far easier than most of you guys as i have the car stipped at the front so nothing to snag on. Tomorrow is the suspension and then to the sandblasters, i read on hear mike amick's pictorial of his front suspension rebuild; but am a little scared of the spring removal he does! anyone else done the jack under the a frame trick? oh and i want to take the rear suspension out attached to the axle, is that possible?

oh and the last pic i found in the bottom of the drive shaft tunnel?

Feb 09, 2012 10:47:03
pants007

this is the thing in the tunnel?





Feb 09, 2012 10:58:47
PeterC

Brake cable connector.

Feb 09, 2012 11:16:16
pants007

what is that? handbrake? do i need it? looks like its been laying there a while

Feb 09, 2012 11:35:37
prop46

Thats my guess also... Some kind of E brake connector...its NOT midget

Probably someone tried to compensate for a stretched cable

Prop

Feb 09, 2012 12:09:45
73midget

i agree with the above. that object does not belong on a midget, but it does look like a bracket one would use to adjust tension on a cable. The cable would run through the slots on the "v" part and you would make it tighter by screwing the center post in or out (see how it has a trough on it that is the opposite of the other two arms?) kinda neat.

as far as taking out the rear suspension and axle, yes you can do it that way. In fact the rear suspension is the only thing holding the axle in now, except for the brake hose and brake cable. you would want to dsiconnect the cable from the axle (there is a bracket hanging off the bottom of the diff case, it is help on by a pin and cotter and the tension adjuctment nuts that hold it to the bracket. Then disconnect the rubber brake hose at the body end. (you will get fluid on yourself).

put a trolley jack or transmission jack under the diff to hold the weigth and lift it so the weight is not on the springs. Then undo the front spring brackets. there are 4 bolts (2 on each side) that go up from under the car, and 4 (2 each side) that go down from inside the passenger space behind the seats. carefully undo the rar spring brackets from the boot floor, you may need an assistant as the bolt heads are under the car and the nuts on top (inside the boot) are not fixed so they will need to be held to stop them spinning. If you have long arms as I do, you can do both yourself) then lower the jack carefully and use it to roll the whole axle out the back of the car.

Feb 09, 2012 14:49:11
mjamgb

Congrats!

The bit is absolutely unneeded. It is for taking up the slack in a cable (like the hand brake) and is nearly always gauranteed to accelerate the breaking of the cable (it's loose for a reason, isn't it?)!

Feb 09, 2012 18:11:18
prop46

Before you remove the rear axle... Go thur and scratch mark all the locations... That way when you reasseme you can bolt it on exactly ad it is ... Other wise you will have to measure and balanve everything out ...a PITA procedure, cause you have to be exact...other wise you will have all kinds of issues with driving and wear if the rear axle if off one side or the other
Prop

Feb 10, 2012 02:23:06
pants007

thanks prop i did that before removing the bolts at the rear end! engine and gearbox look brand new! no engine number so not a clue! heres under the rocker cover looks nice and clean!

Feb 10, 2012 05:20:25
dte948

Stevyn,

The process Mike used to remove the front springs is NOT recommended if the engine and gear box has been removed. I have used this process a number of times but you need the engine weight to compress the springs. As stated earlier that is a cable tightener.

Dave

Feb 10, 2012 07:29:28
pants007

so i need a spring compressor?

Feb 10, 2012 07:32:09
73midget

just do the long bolt method. Get some 1/4" all threaded bolts about 4" long or so and nuts to match. Take out two of the spring pan bolts located diagonally from each other and replace them with your new long bolts and nuts. Once those are secure, take out the other two original bolts. then you can release the pressure on the spring gradually by backing off the long bolts. (do them in turn so they stay even with each other). Refitting is the reverse process.

Feb 10, 2012 09:10:42
pants007

thanks chris! wondered what 'this' long bolt method was! hear it all the time just never asked!

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