MGB: Engine Ripout

Apr 20, 2003 09:42:55
Dave Livingston

If the rain ever stops up here, I plan on pulling the engine and OD transmission from the 77 parts car I have. I've searched on the bbs and found all the problems and tribulations about RB engine mounts. Since I'm not going to put the engine back in, is there any reason I couldn't take the sawzall with a metal blade and cut the front engine mounts in half to save time?

This car also appears to have a Lumenition igntion system installed. I've read various things about that here, is it worth looking at for the 75?

thanks

dave

Apr 20, 2003 09:53:24
Phil Nazelrod

i guess you could take the sawsall..but i took two of them out of b's (a 76 and a 77) the proper way and it took less than one hour for each.

Apr 20, 2003 10:27:26
Chuck Cougill

I don't think you'd save that much time

Apr 20, 2003 10:32:49
John D. Weimer

They're not that bad coming out, I wouldn't cut them.

Apr 20, 2003 12:49:50
Gary Lloyd

It will be like every shortcut that I have tried!! It will take longer!!! :o)

Apr 20, 2003 16:35:07
Tom Bedenbaugh

More than likely you can put the engine host on the motor and just lift it right out. They will tear loose if you start lifting. They sure aren't worth trying to salvage for what a new set would cost. I ouldn't use them over anyway.

Apr 20, 2003 19:25:30
chris roop

It's the putting them in that is a real killer.

Apr 21, 2003 05:07:19
Vern Smith

I got the engine back together after the rebuild. As soon as I finish the seals on the tranny, I'll be putting it back in. New mounts are on the block, and the old mounts came off with no problems. So...what is the difficulty with putting the new mounts in? Only problem I forsee is getting the nut started on the driver's side because of the steering shaft, but I figure to start the nut before I set the engine fully in. Any other tips?

Apr 21, 2003 05:12:35
Vern Smith

I've had one ony my 79 since I bought it in the mid 80's and have had only one problem. One of the wires in the distributor broke, and when the advance rotated the distributor plate far enough, the ignition cut out, and then as the engine died, the wires touched again, and it started back up. Sounded like somebody going from full throttle to idle over and over. Weird.

Apr 21, 2003 06:36:32
chris roop

There is a plate and lockwasher that go on before the nut. The steering shaft wreaks havoc with getting it in. I ended up using 3-M adhesive to glue the three parts together to get it up, then start the nut. It still took several tries. I also custom made a wrench to fit the application. standard combination just didn't get it. Clean the threads really well so that you can use your fingers to sppin it on most of the way (I didn't and paid for my laziness). Have fun!

Apr 21, 2003 06:43:50
Tom Bedenbaugh

I take the rack out. Five bolts, the tie rod ends, and 10 min. I don't need the aggravation. It's super easy with the cross member out. When I'm doing a ground up, I drop the engine in before I replace the front-end.

Apr 21, 2003 06:47:36
chris roop

I forgot that you had said that when I did mine. Time wise, that sounds like the way to go.

Apr 21, 2003 09:05:03
Tom Bedenbaugh

When you do it for a living you try to make it move as fast as you can. Over the years I have come up with a few tricks of the trade, and try to share it with you guys.

Apr 21, 2003 18:10:36
chris roop

And it is appreciated!

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