I am restoring a 1956 MGA that I purchased last year that had a 5 main MGB engine and trans in it that was poorly fit. I recently purchased a 3 main 1800 block that was mated to a low starter mount trans, pulled out of another MGA and was thinking it was the best combination.
Before I go through the process of rebuilding the engine and putting a new 2nd gear synchro in the trans, I wanted to know if anyone has this combination and how it works out as a driver. This is not a concourse level resto, but I do want to maintain the look of originality. Also, can a 5 main head be used with the 3 main block?
Any and all advice welcomed.
Thanks,
Gordon
Engine / Trans Choices for MGA
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I almost didn't buy my MGA because it had a 1963 3-main 1800 motor in it. I wanted an original powerplant. But the deal was good and the car was otherwise perfect so I bought it. I am now a changed man. I would never buy another MGA (other than a twin cam) without a 3-main 1800. Visually you cannot tell the difference from the stock 1500 engine and it even retains the correct cable-driven tachometer rather than th electronic type the later 5-main MGB engines use.
The power is absolutely perfect for the car and the fit is identical to the original unit. I have the original MGA transmission in the car as well. I did not do the restoration myself so I can't give any particulars about the assembly process but many others have done the job so I'm sure someone will chime in. If I can send along any photos or information feel free to ask.
Here's a general photo of the engine in my car...

Steve,
Thanks for the feedback, I came to check my posting before putting the engine block on the engine stand, I am very pleased that you like the combo so well. I also wanted an original 1500, but found this 1800 on Craigslist and got the low-mount trans for it too. The previous owner spent $6k on this car in 1985 to have the MGB engine and trans installed, body and paint and interior redone. The day after he picked it up, someone pulled out in front of him and he wrecked it and gave up on it. It has been sitting for 21 years.
I have the body off and am in the process of stripping the frame down to send to have it sandblasted and power coated. It came to me crunched up a little, but at least is wasn't too rusty and I already have the replacement body panels (except the sills).
Your car is beautiful and perhaps someday, mine will at least be back together and running.
Thanks for you comments.
Regards,
Gordon
I didn't do it, the PPO did! I just try to keep it clean, and that ain't easy with an old british engine in a white engine bay!
Steve, I agree with the nice engine bay comment. Sorry about the lousy picture, I uploaded it by looking at a thumbnail instead of the real thing. I tried again below...
Also, do you have any ID numbers on the head, like "18" or is it blank? I think the later MGB heads had the 18 casted into them and they can be used if the later cam followers (lifters) are used?
Here she is on the day I bought her:
This is also a 3 main MGB engine in my 62 coupe.
IMHO they are the best swap for an MGA. They look dead stock. You'd have to machine off the top mounting bosses for the rear engine plate to really fool anyone, mind you.
Getting a bit rare now so hang onto it (I have a half dozen squirreled away as I was racing a pushrod TVR with one).
Hey Gordon, if you have a better photo of the crash damage I'd love to add it to my web site. I have an entire page dedicated to crashed MGs. I started it just for kicks, but it has turned out to be an interesting collection showing just how tough these little cars are!
On the rear of my cylinder head, it is stamped "18". On the front it reads "Patent 565394".
Black plate car to boot!
I agree with the above. 3 main 1800 is the way to to. Make sure the crank is balanced and nitrated. As far as gear boxes, I prefer the 3 syncro of the A over the 4 syncro of the B. The B box weighs nearly 80 lbs more and uses steel syncros. The A box (yes no syncro in first) use brass syncros and your much less likely to loose a syncro over time. I've raced with both. Chucked the B box after 2 races. Broke all but first gear syncros. I race the A box for 2 years with no problems.
My 2 cents! Have fun with the car!
Hey Gordon - Are you in northern or southern CA? I'm north near Standford University. s
Scott & all,
I am in North OC, but made the trip up to Dixon on May 21st to get the British car feeling. It was a pretty good show, I bought a few things, sold a few things and generally had a great time.
I bought a high starter MGA tranny up there that I no longer need and have a B tranny too. It is much heavier that the MGA trans. I also have a B engine that needs to go (1968-69 model).
I am having a great time and just work on it when I can. Been too hot in the garage lately to do too much, looking forward to cooler weather.
Thanks too to the person who advised the nitriding (nitrating?) the crank and balancing. I also took the new nose section, a frame extension and two fenders in for media blasting yesterday. I was unpleasantly surprised at the cost. Does $150 sound like too much for sandblasting those few pieces? They said that the power prices force them to charge an arm and a leg. (OC Sandblasting)
Regards to all,
Gordon
Gordon, feel free to come by and take a look at my car if it will help you. I'm up in the San Fernando Valley.
Steve,
Thanks for the invite, I will be working in Santa Clarita during the first week of Sep. and will have to come by and take a look. Ii also have been working in San Diego over the last few years and attended the start of the "Rolling British Car Day" down here in April. Unfortunately, mine isn't rolling yet. The most memorable MGA was the one that took the "beater" prize. It was good to see someone who just drives and enjoys them. Anyway, I will get your info between now and then and swing by to take a look, and perhaps take some pictures.
The trans mount is missing on my frame and I need to fabricate on and weld it on, any idea where I might get dimensions?
Thanks,
Gordon
I don't have a mount off the car but you're welcome to get under mine and have a look. I have a lift, so you won't have to crawl underneath.
Steve,
I will bring my digital camera and calipers, nice to have a lift.
For Scott, here is a better picture of the front end. The damage was confined to the nose and fenders, the frame and fender wells seem to be okay.
I have another nose for it and just need to weld it on. I was going to sandblast and powdercoat the frame first, but have talked to people who advised against it.
Gordon
Ruins my day! At least the bumper didn't appear to be too badly damaged. Sent that off to the rechrome shop and they'll fix where you can't tell it.
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