I picked up the 78 midget and had a short interupted drive. Overall i would say it is about what i expected. I had to adjust a little slack into the acc.cable to keep the idle below 1500 rpm. The hose to the water choke was too long and rubbing on the hood. Replaced. John twist sugests 90 weight in the dash pot. No way,too heavy. Severe flooding on hot restart. It is quicker than i expected under 50 mph. Steering in light. Fuel guage not working.heater swx.the same,red light on dash stayed on all the time?, fully smogged, and the top is toast. I have several pics. I will attach those as allowed as a member. I will not commit just yet. Leon Carpenter
First drive 78 midget .
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<Fuel guage not working> = This could be wiring or more likely the sending unit. Check connections at the tank. You can easily disconnect there and ground out the wire going back to the gauge, Have someone check the gauge to see if it works. If so, replace sending unit.
<heater swx.the same,> = Could be a bad switch, bad heater motor, or an issue at the fuse block,
<red light on dash stayed on all the time> = This is an indication of a charging problem.
<fully smogged> = Most choose to remove, but this depends on your state and local smog regulations.
<and the top is toast> = There are several bits of advice available here, but the best is that you need to either replace the top on a HOT summer day or in a well heated garage to get it formed and stretched so it looks and fits correctly.
Anytime one of these cars shows any electrical issues as this does, the first thing to do is to go over the fuse block. It will loose connections across the spring connections for the fuses holders and also at the rivets where the wires slide on. A Dremel tool and a DVOM / continuity tester are your your friends on this project.
Everett, I think your wize in not commiting just yet but the important thing is you got to drive it, but the problems seem to over ride any enjoyment. I had hoped this car would crank and go without annoying problems. I guess I'd be looking at a bit older model that isn't bogged by gov't regs. Progun on this site has a sweet little ride that you might consider and it is ready to go. Whatever you decide try to get one that you can not only enjoy driving but owning as well. Everybody on here will tell you that when you park in public someone will make remark and convers about it...so, you get a social benefit as well as driving joy. If you put a cute dog in it then you have the ultimate chick magnet.
I have posted the negs. Now i would like to post the positives. First let me say the owner bought it 2 years ago from a mechanic? what ever that is worth. This fellow has no mechanical skills or tools or a place to work on the midget. I am a pretty good problem solver so,burning the midnight oil, and plenty soap and water will resolve most of the issues. The fuel guage is a concern but fixable,the heater swx. has not detents,so replace it,the smoog stuff can go it a 5 gal bucket beside the bucket from the MGB,the paint looks good,no work needed here,the wheels 5 are nice,the tires good,both covers look new,red light on dash?( cost him a new battery),the magnet test shows some body filler on rockers but doesn't need further work at this time,the bright work around the windshield is good.it starts instantly,revs. freely,no smoke or funny noises,clutch is smooth,it shifts good. One mor neg.-exhaust leak on start up and is a lot less when at temp.For a car 31 years old with fixable or VB/Moss replacable items it has survived pretty good. The one exception IMHO would be the top. He is asking $2,500.00, and with the top replacement is a bit much. Leon Carpenter
I wouldn't give up on it just yet. The body looks good in the one pic. A repaint? Stored indoors? The issues, as you've described them, are all fixable with some time and effort. You didn't say anything about the suspension, steering, or brakes.
X2 on Ramon's comment about the fuse block. It seems to lack a cover, so that's a place to start cleaning the connections. A new cover is available from Moss. Have the alternator tested. If the car has not been run in some time, the fuel system and carb may be clogged up with sediment and/or gum. A can of Sea Foam will clear the worst of it. The carb and it's linkages may need a thorough cleaning as could the entire engine compartment (judging from the pic). Don't worry about the emissions equipment unless there are visibly broken components that are adversely affecting the engine's operation.
Remember, these cars are 30 years old or older. Nearly all will have some issues that need fixing. The main things to worry about are the drive train, brakes, suspension and body rust. Wonr, faded paint and interiors are exepcted. Everything else is a minor project. Whatever your upfront cost to purchase, you're still going to have to spend some money and time to fix all the little things.
Unless Karma gives you a great big kiss and dumps a concours #1 condition car in your lap from a relative you never knew you had.
Cheers,
Glen
I'd say $2500 seems a bit high priced based on what negs you've pointed out. The newer paint is a HUGE plus, however. I'd be looking more towards the $1600-$1900 price range for that car. You could hold out for a chrome bumper model in similar condition for the $2500 asking price.
Everett, FWIW, I think that $2500 is fair price for a car in that condition. Here in TX it would probably fetch more - 3 - 3.2K $. You may want to offer a bit less than the asking price because the convertible top is toast. Even then the lack of a top isn't a show stopper unless you don't have a garage to put it in.
Jus' sayin'.
Cheers,
Glen
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