Front Caliper Question

About now you guys are getting sick of my easily answered question. The reason I have been asking all the questions is its the first time I've undertake this kind of work on a car. I don't want to make some stupid mistake that's going to cost me.
On to the new problem. I've broken down the front breaks and hubs down to the bare swivel axel. I can't seem to get the calipers apart (not the caliper just the piston and bleed screws) . First the bleed screw on both is frozen. I tried liquid wrench on both and still no go. Let is soak for 12 hours and still no go. Also, I can't get the pistons out. I had to drive the car 15 miles to my house when I purchased it (it was not run for ten years) and it was evident that from the rust still on the front rotors that the front brakes were not working (I have new flexible hoses already purchased). Do you think they are to far gone and I should just get new ones? I'll be taking the rotors and hubs Saturday to get turned at the local machine shop. Do you think they work on calipers and could help. I'll be calling them tomorrow its just that I was wondering if the calipers are two far gone to worry about them.

Last but not least my lovely wife would like to know how to get the carburetor cleaner, solvent smell out of my skin. I've used this new gallon can of parts cleaner I got at auto zone and even through latex gloves it has made me reek of it. Help! She won't come near me...

I suspect the best thing for you to do would be to buy new rotors and rebuilt calipers. MGB rotors are not very thick and often will not have enough meat left after turning to meet the manufacturers specs. If the pistons are rusted in place in the calipers, you likely will be wasting your time trying to free them and rebuild. I have found Liquid Wrench to be not so good for freeing rusted parts. Try PB B'laster or Kroil. An ail line hooked to the tubing port might help free the pistons up. Also, beware, there is an square profile O-ring seal between the two halves of the caliper that does not come in the rebuild kits, so it must be ordered special.

As for the carb cleaner smell, I kinda like it. A little dab behind each ear will make sure you get everyone's attention when you walk into a room. Makes good callous remover, too. Ah, yes, od crisillic acid!

Finally - somebody who knows what that stuff is - works great, but it sure is toxic. A dab behind the ears would remove them! However, I agree that the odor is not all that offensive!

I looked it up on the internet and found this:

<http://www.dakotagas.com/msds/cresylictarmsds.pdf>

Nasty stuff!

I agree with Gerry... I don't know what new calipers cost, but with something as important as the front brakes, I'd deal with the cost and get new ones. If yours are really rusty they're pitted and won't rebuild well anyway.
Rotors, last time I checked, are a bargain, at about $35 each, and it's really not worth turning them at that price.

I agree with the above. If the piston won't move, it's time to move on to new parts.
I'd love to sell u some.

Yeah, what chris said.

As for the carb cleaner smell, I suggest copious quantities of dish liquid.

The front calipers cost $139 each... Ouch! Remember I have a MGC. parts are HARD to get anywhere other then V.B. I went to three parts stores today and only one showed MGC in the book ($58 each...sweet!) but they still didn't carry them. Rotors also cost $44.00 each for my C ($15-20 to turn). Rear drums are $119. I'm one to usually just say replace them but there is a limit to what I will spend before I start looking for ways to save money.

Remember I have a MGC. You have any rebuilt MGC calipers cheaper then V.B.

Remember I have a MGC. the local machine shop is going to help me get the pistons out. I think I'll still have to replace them. There $139 at V.B. I've checked everywhere and there the only place that has them. One had them in a book for $58 and I about freaked at getting them so cheap then he says there not in stock. Story of my life...

If they list, but not carry, them they can probably get them from their rebuilder about as quick as you can order them in yourself. If you don't rush them there may not even be any shipping charges.

I approached the local Auto Zone about just that a couple of years ago. They supposivbly contacted their supplier and found out that small demand stuff like our parts are made in short runs only. They told me that their suppliers had to recieve 15 to 20 requests for a item before they change over from the common stuff and make a run of unusual stuff. I tried to order calipers and after ten days waiting was told that the rebuilder had not had enough requests yet to make the run and could not even give me an idea when the run would be made. I got the same answer about rebuilt alternators as well, from a different parts house, a NAPA dealer. Does any of this make sense to you, John, or have been fed a line of bull?

Hastings rebuilders, used by mostly independent stores, (damn few of them any more), have a man that rebuilds only odd-ball stuff, if he's still with them. They don't wait for a special run, they have a special man. He even makes some of the parts he needs.

15% off of Moss list plus shipping under $500.

Applehydraulics.com Rebuilt calipers for MGC listed at $125 each.

I've never used them, but never heard anything bad about them.

Bud

WOW! thanks, I'll be calling them Monday.

I was told Moss does not carry any MGC parts. I'll definitely keep you in mind for any non MGC specific items.

Every catalog I've gotten from Moss had MGC parts as well as MGB and many of the parts are the same

The majority of the parts are the same but the motor and suspension are quite different. I'm looking at a Moss catalog right now and I don't see any reference to MGC any where.

I'll build them for $100 each + freight. They'll be like new.

Let me see what they look like when I get them apart. If they look salvageable I'll call you. Whats the price if i have the rebuild kit (i do)?

Some of that citrus-based handcleaner has worked well in the past for getting rid of lingering odors on my skin. I forget the name of the stuff but there's lots of different brands to choose from. I don't know if it totally got rid of the smell or just masked it, but the wife was happy and that's what counts.
As they say, "If Mamma ain't happy, nobody's happy."

That would be the best bet.

That's why I only use carb cleaner once a month. The orange wasn't good enough.

Usually, mechanics charge less if they open things up themselves.
Send them to Tom and return the kit.

Moss have some MGC stuff, but they've no MGC catalogue. I was able to get rear wheel cylinders and a clutch master cylinder from them recently -- listed in a sales flyer at incredible prices (like $100 off on the clutch master....). I don't think they have a way to look stuff up by application, but if you have a factory part number you can check it on their website to see if they have it....

HTH!

I went back an looked at the catalog I was thinking about and it turned out to be VB! Sorry for the missinformation!

I'd bet that the parts are availiable from other sources. Surely that caliper was used on other cars as well. And I gaurontee there is someone who knows for sure!

Well, doing a little googling, looks like some Lotus Elans and TR6s used the same caliper, Girling 64032288/9 (L/R):
http://www.gglotus.org/ggpart/elan+2xref.htm

Given the track record I've had with printed cross-references (often dismal), I'd be skeptical of cross-reference info gleaned from web pages. Still, it's at least a path you can follow, just to see where it leads....

Hmmmm! Interesting. I'll be definitely looking into this.

Ok -- a little more research, just because I was curious. I found another web page that referenced the Girling numbers for TR6, and that page indicated that they fit "TR6, 1969-12/69". I presume that means that they fit all 1969 models, and 1970 models produced before Jan 1970. FWIW.

Looking at prices from The Roadster Factory, etc., I think I'd take Tom up on his offer if you decide not to rebuild yours yourself....

HTH!

I just did some more checking and the one parts store I didn't check(advance auto part) can get me a remanufactured. set for 49.95 each. WOW. I found there web site and checked there then called there store. They have a set in Tennessee and can get them to me mid week. I can't believe the problem is solved that easily. I'll believe it when I have them in my hand. I'm headed to the store right now to order them.

Just checked it out myself -- cool! But where do they get away charging that outrageous core charge? ;-) I think for $1, I'd keep my old ones.....