front pulley

Any suggestions on removing pulley/balancer would be greatly appreciated, the bolt is off. The B pulley came off very easily, no prying or pullers etc.
Thanks
Paul

Tap, tap, tap w/ your plastic hammer, or a puller.

Be careful of the pulley...they are hard to find...also the balancer itself...only used available as far as I know

MikeDooley

Harbor freight 3 arm puller set. Penetrating oil first, then ease it off, being sure to apply pressure evenly. Just did this a cpuple weeks back, no problems.

As noted, be careful as balancer has rubber mounting that can be damaged. $300 to repair !

Chuck

As said be very careful with the pulley, treat it as glass. But do not attempt to pull the damper from the outer edge! This will only cause damage. Use a steering wheel puller attached to two of the four threaded holes in the damper and push against the end of the crank. By pulling the outer rim you will break the bond between the rubber and the metal.
Very expensive as Chuck said.

Well it's off, thanks guys, didn't mangle it. Please take a look, do you think it needs service or maybe a different used one on e-bay (there have been a couple on there lately). Crank, pistons, cam coming out tomorrow, lots of ?'s coming soon.
Thanks
Paul

Some obvious surface cracks in the rubber, not looking too promising ;-(

I don't have a lot of experience with these, but mine is in a bit better shape than yours, and I plan on sending out for renewal (Damper Doctor).

I saw the ones on eBay as well, but didn't look any better than yours to my eye, in fact a couple looked worse.

Chuck

Chuck
What do you think you'll spend at the Damper Doc? The $300 mentioned above?

Had mine rebuilt, my machine shop sent it out. Cost was $100. [url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php][/url]

And you were pleased with the results, and you've run the engine, and you might be able to find out who they sent it to??

My opinion only, is that the rubber showing has been exposed to air for 40+ years, and most will show cracking.
What I do is first look at the seal surface, and if it's OK, then spin in a lathe and check for trueness (wobble).
If it passes these tests, then find true TDC with a piston stop, (perfect time to check when indexing cam) and see if the
timing mark lines up with the factory mark on the front cover to make sure it hasn't "walked".
If all is good, use it and spend the $300 elsewhere.
The balancer and flywheel will also be needed if you are having the crank balanced.

Rubber was rotten making it out of balance (wobbled). Looked new upon return, new rubber and raw metal. Painted up great and timing marks are right on. [url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php][/url]

Interesting topic so i checked mine and on one side there is none and on the other side where it sits in the groove it is flat and painted over.This was the way I recieved the part. So how important are these rubber seals and where do we get them if we can??

Dan

It's not a seal, it is a joint between two pieces of the part for vibration dampening. [url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php][/url]

300 was quote from Damper Dr. Based on Swamprs note, I will definitely check on getting it rebuilt locally before I send it out.

Chuck

please do check inside the pulley where it sits on the crank ,, this is where they crack..be warned i know the conscience and a few other heavy footers