MGB: Fuel tank sending unit removal...

How does one remove the sending unit from the fuel tank? Is there a special tool needed? I can't find much info in the Haynes book except "remove it".

There is a graduated lockring, which should have three ears poking toward the middle. I used the rubberized end of a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to gently unscrew the ring (counterclockwise, I believe). All the rubber was intended to avoid bending the ears on the lockring, which would bend the ramps they are attached to, which would decrease the fit. Does that make any sense? Once the lock ring is off, everything else just lifts out.

I did it like Drew, but used an old screwdriver and a hammer. If you are worried about making a spark, that's not a problem if you don't have a real bad gas leak nearby. You could use a piece of hardwood or brass in stead of a screwdriver if you're worried about sparks, but there will be none if you hold the screwdriver firmly against the ear while tapping it.

I have taken too many off to count with a screwdriver and hammer. Never had one blow up yet. It doesn't take much of a lick to get them off. Just a couple of taps.

Me too Tom and 10,000 other guys, it's not a problem, but you know how it is. Stuff like an "Always wear safety glasses" sticker on a damned floor jack or "Do not ingest" on a container of battery acid, "Do not eat" on a silica jell pack, and $hit like that. Warning labels on EVERYTHING, some of them positively stupid, get people to where they're scared to do anything. I was just giving him some options in case he needed them.

just blew his face of jumping a car - spark on connection, battery exploded. Rare, yes, but it happens. I am a little more careful now.

That's why you always connect the positive lead to the battery first ( negative ground car), and then connect the negative lead to the block or a good chassis ground point, never to the battery. The last lead you connect is the only one that can spark, and if you connect it to the battery, you stand a chance of a hydrogen explosion, as your neighbor found out.

ALWAYS hook up to the dead battery first when using jumper cables. A dead battery has been gassing and a spark can ignite the fumes. By connecting to the good battery last you're away from the dead one ond so is any spark that's created.

Right you are JDW, I guess I failed to make that point. Power cable to the dead battery first, then to the jumping battery, ground cable to the dead car's ground next, and finally ground to the jumping car's ground. That's the way I was tought 35 years ago, and I don't think it's changed any.

Guess that my point was -- many dangerous things don't happen, but occasionally do. So just do'nt be too incautious. We all are occasionally, but it pays to take heed.