got stuff!

Hi all. I had a fellow look at my motor and told me it was a 73. I posted a few days ago and you all told me where to look, but PO must have known I was going to look there and thought he'd add to my fun by making it impossible to identify. I'm trying to get the brake m/c reservoir off, and it's the wedge type w/2 screws on top, one of which is stripped so bad I'll probably drill it out. Are these screws available anywhere? Just got package 1 from Moss, sills, floors, inner sills, fender lower 1/2s all for both sides. She'll be new below the waterline. New gas tank comes next week. Any gain from taking the giant plastic windmill off the front of the motor and going electric? Did that with all my spits, as well as fuel pump, and it helped a little. Thanx and keep the shiny side up. Capt. Havoc

Engine plate may have been destroyed by "hot tanking" the block during a prior rebuild... very common as the aluminum does not like caustic solution, especially when it is heated.

Don't remove the reservoir to remove the MC. Makes a mess for no reason. Screws are a standard thread form (can't recall the size off hand, likely 1/4"NF) so unless you are relly antsy about having the original head shape right, pretty much any style machine screw can be found to fit.

Congrats on the project and good luck. I hate body work so my heart's out to you ;)

Space is limited for a decent electric puller fan (unless you ahve a RB car) and the pusher fan is less efficient. I run one so they do work. Dunno if it makes a real difference in power but it makes sticking your hand in there (motor off!) less likely to remove skin.

Thanx. Not interested in original profile for screws, but they've got a shoulder in them (I got one out) and sort of a truss head. The car came with a m/c rebuild kit, I just want to get a look at the bore to see if it's even worth attempting. I hate body work as well, but I'm putting my wife in this car, so safety is priority #1. I personally like the feel of the wind blowing up my pant legs. It's the puddles that get me, though.

Ditch the rebuild and replace the entire cylinder. You will be glad that you did. When you are done with that, pull the rear drums and look for leaks under the cylinder dust covers. You might want to replace all three flex lines just for old time's sake too.

Look closely at the right side of the block and see if you can read the casting information there. There will be a "clock" giving you the year, month and day of the block casting. That is a good [place to start.

Sounds like you are biting off a mighty big chaw of work there. Best of luck with the body stuff. There are several VERY knowledgeable folks here that will be happy to hold you hand through the sill/rocker/floor replacement.

Welcome to the board !

Jack