Has anyone ever though of installing grease zerks on the wishbone pivot arms?I am installing new poly bushings and it seems like a good idea. any thoughts?
grease nipples
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Yeah, I thought about it once, but didn't do it.
I did add them to the upper fulcrum end of the kingpins though.
nutman79 Wrote:
Has anyone ever though of installing grease zerks on the wishbone pivot arms?I am installing new poly bushings and it seems like a good idea. any thoughts?
"
No but I thought about adding them to the steering rack though, and switching away from rack oil to grease.
Don't hurt me people...
Landon
I am surprised about the lack of talk about this idea.This area seems like it need grease.I am still researching this using poly bushings.To make it work i need to cut 1/8" off each bush to allow grease to enter the area.I am not sure that grease needs to get behind the bush.May not be a good idea from that point also the bush to pivot point is very tight.any thoughts?
Zerk fittings can be used for oil as well. Most all of the powered machine tools use a zerk on the ways for lubrication and quite a number of amateurs have mistakenly pumped grease into them not knowing any better. I do not know if there is a good place to install one on the rack but it would be a novel idea if possible. hmmmmmmm.
Are to talking about the inner a-arm pivots? If so, you do not and should not grease them if you are using the stock rubber bushings. If using polyurethane bushings, it might be a good idea as they will squeak if not greased.
Keep in mind that the old grease needs a way to get out, as well as distributed properly. Just pumping grease in without routing it through can end up pushing grit into places it might not have gone. Not saying it's a bad idea, but think it through thoroughly before proceeding. I would consider welding a gusset onto the a-arm and threading it there for strength of not only the a-arm, but also for the nipple which would otherwise have only one or two threads to hold on by. Perhaps I'm going overboard, but I don't like doing things more than once, especially when I skipped something I thought about doing from the start! :)
There is plenty on thickness in the tube to install a zerk the problem i see is moving the grease along the length of the pivot shaft.Under load there might be some engloation of the poly bush to allow grease to penatrate into the bush nonload side. Though about millling a thin groove to allow grease to move along its length.Then there is possibly of weakening the shaft by milling not sure yet still looking for more imput.The load side is were all the pressure is thats were the grease is needed.
Yep, the thickness of the metal surrounding the bushing is enough to hold full threads for a grease fitting. No worry about strength - the metal is massive there. Just put the fitting in the center where the two bushing halves meet. No need for making special channels. Grease guns put out enough pressure that I guarantee it will force the grease right into that small crack between the bushing halves and throughout the joint. Pump enough grease in that you see it start to ooze out of the ends of the bushing and then wipe off the excess. Do that regularly and dirt will be forced out with the old grease.
All that said, if you use that grease that Prothane sells for their poly bushings when you install them, it will probably last for years. The stuff is so sticky that it's not likely to ever come off on its own.
Can I temporarily highjack this thread for a really stupid question I am embarrassed to ask?
On the kingpins on the GT both upper zerks do not allow me to add any grease like they will not open. Are they broken or am I missing something?
cfrench Wrote:
Can I temporarily highjack this thread for a really stupid question I am embarrassed to ask?
On the kingpins on the GT both upper zerks do not allow me to add any grease like they will not open. Are they broken or am I missing something?
"
You can take them out and replace them with new ones, or they make a tool that you use with a hammer to apply very high pressure that will open them up.
The problem with replacing them is that you could break them getting them out and you have another job ahead. The tool that opens them up can inject dirt/grit into the joint that was in the zerk fitting.
EDIT: Here is a different tool to open them up,
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details.aspx?identifier=accessories_fittings_jointcleaners
Thanks for the imput.Tomorrow i will drill and tap and install zerts.positioning them is important so that i can grease them after my reassembly.I have allready marked them at about 5:00.I will post pics after my install are done.
Place them where they won't hang down and be busted off by a jack or something if possible.
Anyone else read that as 'greased nipples'?
Needless to say, I clicked the link reflexively.
You may want to open up that gap between the bushings a little. Once torqued down, that gap may close up and the grease won't be able to get to the sleeve where it's needed. Also don't forget a channel or two to help distribute the lubricant.
I all ready took some material out on each side.I don't want to take any more out.greased nipples, there is a reason for everything. :]
scottydawg Wrote:
Anyone else read that as 'greased nipples'?
Needless to say, I clicked the link reflexively.
"
Greased would be fine, but ungreased is just fine also. Nipples that is!
Well I thought the post would degrade sooner than this, given its title. You guys are really practicing some self control here.
Okay, that doesnt account for our thoughts, but hey, you have to start somewhere.
John
Jeff,
you can put in grease nipples there but it is not worth the affort. Considre about the load and the way of travel at this bushings, and you know why such an upgrade is not offered by MG spare parts distributers.
Keep it simple!
Ralph
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