MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
changed the head got nice compression readings no air pump air rail holes open and it started and ran for a few minutes after playing with the wires. is there a pic somewhere i can look at to route the hoses to. i am going to block the air rail holes with allen head bolts. 73 with a 65 or 66 engine mixed up timing cover and damper dont know what i have. and a nice newly rebuilt later head
What hoses?
If you are going with the early crankcase venting system you will have a hose running up from the front tappet cover to a PCV valve which in turn dumps straight down into the intake. If you are dealing with a later system that has it's venting to the carbs, which you must if you are using HIF carbs, they will feed to each carb after a Y connector on the end of the hose coming up from the tappet cover.
If you still had a gulp valve installed, trash it and pull the L shaped metal elbow out of the top of the intake manifold and insert some sort of metal stopper. The elbow is a press fit. Use a decent sized pair of Channelocks and twist it as you pull straight up. I found a hand full of copper plugs that were waste from some sort of work at one of my welding/machine shops and they look great but you could also find a small freeze plug that nearly fits and over drill the hole in the manifold enough to be able to drive one down into the opening. You will also have to pull the little vacuum connedtor out of the top of the manifold and replace it with, as I recall, a 5/16 X 24 bolt. Use a short one and put a copper gasket gasket under it. That always looks better than just smashing the little metal top line of the old fitting.
The rest of the plumbing you have already dealt with. That is the plugging of the air rail ports in the right side of the head. Some folks caution against Allen screws but I have seen them used MANY times with no obvious bad effect. Quarter inch brass plumbing plugs with square heads can work well too. The fact that the threads don't exactly match those in the head shouldn't be a bother as the brass is going to distort and seal anyway.
If you have a water hole in the top rear of the head for coolant delivery to a water choke on a late Stromburg set-up just make a blanking plate and gasket to seal that.
I think that should cover it.
Jack
Block the air injection holes with allen bolts is the better way to do it. Run the remaining hoses as Jack has outlined.
jack thank you for helping me with my hose routing problems