MGB: Homemade Door Panels

I'm planning on re-doing the panels on my doors to give my car a cheap face-lift. At this point the damaged door panels are really the only thing wrong with the interior. I was hoping for some tips or tricks from anyone who's already done this. I'm also hoping to install speakers in the doors while I'm replacing the panels so does anyone know the maximum size and depth for speakers installed in a '72 door.

From what I understand all I need to do to make my own panels is remove the old ones, trace a pattern on some fiberboard and cut them out. Then it's just stretching the old vinyl over the new panels and using a staple gun to attach them.

Use thin Masonite ( 1/8" ). Lowe's has it.

Spray 3M 77 on it after using the old panel as a pattern to make your shape and cut outs.

Cover the Masonite with a THIN sheet of foam if your old vinyl has lost its stuffing.

Warm the old vinal before trying to stretch it over the new panel.

Buy new clips from Moss or an upholstery shop.

When all done and test fitted, do two more things.

One, spray multi coats of clear enamel on the backside of the exposed Masonite. This wil help weather proof it.

Two, roll the window up and spray 3M 77 on the metal door facings, let it dry for a few minutes and then stretch a black trash can liner over it, smoothing out as many wrinkles as you can. Allow to set for a few minutes and then use a razor blade to make the appropriate cut outs for the winders and handles. This will keep the inevitable moisture from getting to the Masonite from inside the door cavity.

Also, vacuum and clean the cavity well and then spray the insides of the door sheet metal with rubberized under coating. At the very least that will give the door a more substantial sound when you close it.

If you have time go another step and service the lock and latching mechanism since you are so close. Minimum, lube the fool out of it. Maximum, take it all apart for cleaning and lubing.

Jack

Good info Jack. I have this on my list of things to do over the winter.

I used thin plywood.
Get some very thin foam.
Vinyl form any auto trim supplier.
Contact adhesive, the sort that looks like snot that you brush on both surfaces and wait until tacky/dry.
Brush it just where the vinyl folds over the back a couple of inches.
I didn't bother gluing the foam or vinyl to the front, it just stays there.
For the window winder hole, brush on adhesive on circular bit of vinyl visible throught the hole and surrounding ply, wait until dry, cut an X . Stop short of the edges of the hole, the vinyl will streatch circular. , then pull the cornersof the X firmly into place.
The contact adhesive realy grips so don't bother with staples. Mine looks the same as when I did it 5 years ago.
Drill all you door pull and winder holes etc before you put on the vinyl. That will cover any mistakes.

Very good tips from Jack and Pete.

You could also use thin peg board and the troops will never know it has holes in it.

Ditto to what Jack said. I got the same thing done only used a heavy vinyl drop cloth and anchored it to the door using double sided tape from Ace. Also, I used a clear poly seal, brushed on the the back the the fiber board, a least 4 to 5 coats. If you are going to coat the board with some wheather seal, I would think the peg board would be a lot of exrta work. You also might look at the door insulation while all is apart, mine was all gone and I took the time to install new, it makes a big difference in the soundness of the door.

A product called kydex also works as a substitute for masonite. It's a plastic architectural panel. Was available through quite a few plastic suppliers like cadillac plastics. Waterproof, supper 77 will stick to it or can be stapled.

There is also a product called waterproof (or water resistant) masonite. I wouldn't build a boat out of it, but it holds up pretty well in the application we're talking about here. Better than the original stuff. Lowes and Home Depot should have it.

What a timely post Ned. I plan on doing this job over the winter also. Great tips.
Paul

The real good quality laminate floor underlay works well. Glue and no staples is teh best way that I have found after making more than 30 interior panels.
Some of the automotive style fabrics make nice panels as the material stretches, takes glue well and wears forever.

Thanks for the tips on doors,specially about using them large plastic garbage bags and some spry glue to seal them on.:thumbup:

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies. Hopefully with all the tips I'll have quick work at it. I'll just have to make sure to take before and after pictures to show off.

Most of what Pete Sherman said. Use thin plywood, luan plywood which is used for floor underlayment. It is fairly water proof. After cutting it to shape, put a coat of polyurethane on it, both sides and all edges. I went the masonite route twice. It warps, etc. Another member had a great idea on how to extend the window winder and door latch so it would clear the plywood better. I have a series of photos that take my process from start to finish. I could e-mail them to you if you want. I shaped and "manufactured new door cappers also. The wood was shot.

Ditto on all the above.
I used a waterproof masonite and marine vinyl, nice and thick and very stretchy.

The choice of under foam is important too. I chose a high density, slow rebound foam and was able to shape the edges with a very slight round before I attached the vinyl. 3mm thick, gave the surface a firmer feel but the screw caps and handles would still recess in. I like the look and feel - looks softer and thicker than it feels.

My journal shows more detail. Around this entry is discussion on the panels. http://www.mgexperience.net/view/journal/pictures/16099,0.jpg

There is also additional pics on my Photobucket site. http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/

Chris

yep, water proof is the key. MGB's do take on board quite a bit of water. Don't try and fight it, go with the flow so to speak.

You also may want to use closed cell foam. Open cell absorbs water.

The thin plywood offers an advantage if you are planning to recover in a style similar to OE. After varnishing or painting them for protection (edges too), you could actually sew right thru three ply wood paneling when you would sew together the panels and piping that make up the covering. This pulls the covering tight to the panels and keeps them from shifting and sagging over time. Don't try this, however with masonite/hardboard, you will only break needles. The photo attached shows my door panels which were done this way over twenty years ago and, as you can see, there is little puckering, sagging or shifting even now. FWIW.

Bob

Standard sewing machine, or one built for doing shoes and such or did you do it by hand?

I made new ones for my '68 GT. Used 1/8" tempered masonite. Instead of foam, used some white synthetic felt because my wife had bought way too much of it for another project when it was on sale cheap. The white piping was in great shape, so I reused it. Also recovered the top rails, and used felt underneath on them too. Tried staples for the panels, but didn't have success, so used glue. Staples did work fine for the rails though. My wife has a good heavy sewing machine, and helped by sewing the old white piping to the new vinyl. The result looks perfectly stock, and after about five years all is well. Sure beats the old warped panels.

I'm away from home, or I'd post a photo.

Peter, if you wouldn't mind sending me that stuff. My e-mail is ned.stacey@gmail.com

I'm planning on hitting up my local home depot tomorrow to pick up some "SimpleSolutions Soundbloc Foam" and some "1/4" Service Tempered Hardboard". I should be able to replace the door panels with that and do a pretty good job. I also think I'll go ahead and get some vinyl paint an touch-up my 37 year-old interior panels since I don't plan on replacing them until I strip the car down to the frame.

Nice Bob. Yeah, my wife sewed through the plywood also.

An upholstery machine or an older good home machine with all metal gears and cams will sew thru thin plywood. 3-ply luan paneling as found in home improvement stores will work very well and is soft enough to allow sewing, but strong enough to hold it is shape and not delaminate IF you give it a couple of coats of a good quality spar varnish or oil based paint prior to covering. There are other types of 3-ply plywood in 1/8"-3/16" available, but many are tough enough (like birch and maple) to break needles as easily as masonite.

Regardless of the type of backing panel used, do not forget to replace the shield between the open interior of the door and the backside of the panel. On cars as old as mine (1968) the factory actually used scrap vinyl upholstery for this moisture barrier, and later cars used 4 mil or heavier poly sheeting. It is just a good cheap way of ensuring that the interior panels do not get inundated with water and disintegrate very quickly. As most of you have probably noticed, most cars since the 1960s have done this for just this purpose.