Ignition switch connectors... Moss US Moss UK Drivewire etc

I've been doing a lot of fact finding before I replace my ignition switch on my 74. This is all new to me. One thing I have learned from others on here is that the quality of the new stuff is not brilliant. Also that sometime in their production, the ignition wire ends were changed from the bullet connectors to the molded ends. I have been contemplating using the one from my 77 parts car which I know is original, has the molded ends and works. As yet I do not know if the one in my 74 has been changed in the past and whether it has the molded ends or the bullet connectors. From what I have gathered replacing the bullet connectors is not a difficult task, so if anyone of you has done this, a few little tips would be of assistance.

One thing I have noticed is that Moss here does not sell the the ones with the bullet connectors, nor does VB and their switches are good for years 74-80. I have also notice a considerable difference in prices between other vendors. For instance Moss and VB are around $65 give or take a couple $. Drivewire.com have the "same" switch for $160 , thepartsbin.com for $124. I know Moss can be a little on the high side, but is there any difference in quality/manufacturing which would warrent such a difference?

On the the same note, I took a look at Moss Europe and they have ignition switches for 72-74 which look as though they have the bullet connectors. I have sent them a message to enquire about this. Also the cost which VAT removed is $33 plus shipping, which is about half of Moss US.

Right now I am sort of reluctant to fire my B up as I do not want to burn out another starter. It is pretty obvious to me now that the ignition switch was sticking, but for how long I have no idea. It is all very frustrating for me right now and I big learning curve as well.

Cheers

Gerry

From your example, Moss would be on the cheap side! Their new switches have never failed me.

In the world of parts it would be unusual that several manufacturers exist for this lone part. I suspect the higher costs reflect less direct sourceing and in the end its the same thing.
I didn't check Moss UK but its possible the item is a UK or Euro spec piece rather than US item. OEM part number is the only way to determine that issue. PM if I can help

British Parts Northwest lists a BHA5292, same # as Moss-uk, and the BPN picture shows the molded plug. I bought a Moss switch in August for my '74 GT,molded plug, good quality, good price.

Good catch Mark

Mark

Did you have to change the connectors on the new switch? Like I said I have not taken mine apart yet on my 74

IIRC, a 74 came with the grey rubber block that plugs.
Edit: That plug has bullet type connectors in it.

Gerry.

Your 1974 switch and harness should have the clear plastic molded connector. The individual bullet connections were last used in 1972.

European cars used a different switch assembly which does not include the anti run on valve wiring.

Be wary of any non-specialist company advertising electrical components. There are a lot of errors in the primary catalogs that many refer to. The price difference you are seeing could be due to sourcing, or it could date all the way back to when Lucas listed the incorrect switch in the 220/2 catalog printed September 1981. In that catalog a Lucas switch was listed for the 1974 car, but factory no longer sourced a Lucas switch for that year. The lock and switch were sourced from Neuman (sp).

http://bhive.tierranet.com/319MGBignitionswitches.html

Try Gordon at the BHive. $55 for the electric part.

Guess IDRC! So what year did use the grey rubber block?
I was thinking the clear plastic pentagon plugs were r/b stuff.

Thanks I guess I will find out this weekend when I take a look.

Cheers and thanks

Gerry

Wigan,
You are in a good spot,.... you have a spare parts car.

Just look under your 74 steering column and see what you have for a connector, original will be white/opaque connector. Then look under your 77, probably will be the same.

Now, you can take apart the 77 first for experience or the 74 because we know it has some sort of problem.

I'm going to strongly suggest removing battery ground cable, at the battery.

Remove cowling from steering column. Screws nearest to dash are short, one on each side. Two screws nearer to wheel are longer.

Now look at the "back" of the ignition switch... opposite the key. Is it mounted solidly? There is a itty bitty little screw on the bottom that holds it to the metal mechanism.
Is it cracked or broken? Look it over for damage/problems.

Turn the key in the switch, watch for movement/damage/problems.

Key to off position.

Now remove the itty bitty bottom screw and slip the switch straight off the mechanism. If it falls apart, save all pieces and go to the 77 and repeat.

Now, assuming you have a complete switch in your hand, put a screwdriver in the slot of the plastic switch and turn it through its positions, and double checking that it returns from the "start" position. Is it normal/smooth?

Look for cracks/damage in the little inner piece that you can see around that slot.

If it seems to operate properly, check the key switch mechanism by turning it through its range of motion. You will not feel clicks/detents... that is in the plastic switch itself. You are just checking for smooth operation, in your case, especially at the "start" position.

If either the switch or mechanism are stiff/rough, give em a shot of WD40.

If you do not like the switch or the mechanism, swap over the one from your 77 if it passes these same tests.

If the 77 fails also, THEN you can go spend some money.

Boom, done.

Thanks Dirk.

Actually I have put an ignition switch in the 77 parts car. When I got it, it was dead, no juice or anything, Figured out that the ignition switch was the cause and swopped it out with a second hand switch, As soon as I took the cover off the steering column It was obvious that the PO had been messing around there before!I Basicall the old ignition switch litterally fell apart. Put the "new" switch in and the car fired up.

I will take a look this weekend and I really appreciate your in depth explaination.

Gerry

Great Gerry, then you've seen what a simple and satisfying repair it is. The only hard part is paying for a switch when required.
Enjoy the moment.

My Lucas Parts for 1974 Cars listed a # 39753 ignition switch, and I bought a new one for $30. After I removed the original, I realized the catalogue listed the wrong one! Sorry I don't know the right Lucas #, but if you know anyone that needs a new 39753, I have one! Unless it was boxed wrong?

Rick, I'm guessing he only wants the electrical part since he said Moss wants 60 something $'s. The BHive does have that in stock. Now if he needs the whole assembly he'd better yank Moss's arm off for that price. I got a new assembly yesterday for $40 from a pile of parts a guy had 15 miles from home.:smoking:
If his switch is sticking, he needs to look at Moss again and I think he'll find the entire assembly to be about $200 and that is probably what he needs.