installing new tappet adj screws

Can the tappet adjusting screws be installed without removing the whole rocker assembly?

A buddy and I were adjusting the valves tonight. First time since the engine was "reconditioned" and re-installed (not rebuilt). All but about 3 were right on the money.

Unfortunately, one of the adjusting screw nuts just spun and spun, and would never tighten. I went ahead and ordered both the nut and screw, but I'm hoping it's just the nut that's stripped.

On that note: I'm taking a poll on who checks their valves hot, or cold? I'm thinking it's better and full temp (i.e. hot) since you know it'll only contract from that point. If it's done cold, at .015 then there's a chance the metal could expand more, where you may end up with .012. Is there even that much of a difference??

I know after we move into our new house I'm buying a clickadjust tool and be done with it!!!

TIA!

I do it hot, and what you have is a stripped nut. You could have gotten one at you local hardware store. It's a 5/16 NF. Get a grade 8. Grade 5 will be ok but if you can get it grade 8 would be better.

I've always done them cold, Tom's right about the nut, but you can back the screw right out of the hole too. Hot or cold is another judgment call, either way is right, mostly a matter of personal preference. I have done them both ways, even done some with the engine running, but in the end it doesn't make much difference.

That is how I was showed (talkin' American again :o) many years ago!! iIdo them cold now, and it seems to work pretty well!! I never really figgered out how it could work when it was running!!

Had a friend in England who always adjusted them running - seemed to me to be a good way to take the skin of your knuckles - and I can't remember it being any better. I always do 'em cold - like it sez in the book!

I do them cold. You have to remove the shaft to remove the adjuster stud.

You can, if you need too, and I doubt you will, remove them. Back the screw all the way off. Take two screwdrivers and compress the spring. Have someone move the push rod to one side. Now screw it out. Have the piston near TDC just incase the keepers pop out. I've never had that happen , but there's always a first time.

Thanks for the responses guys.

Tom, I'm glad you said it's just a stripped nut. I have some extras and will try them this weekend. I noticed it's a bit thinner than normal.

BTW-what's a "keeper?" How will it pop out?

It's the wedge-shaped item with the raised bump on the inside that holds the valve to the spring. If you compress the spring as Tom suggested, there is the possibility of one side or the other popping out. If you have the piston at or near TDC as he suggested, the valve can't drop very far.

Isn't that where you use the air pressure thing?? I just welded a air fitting onto the bottom half of a spark plug and have changed about 3 or 4 different valve springs on different engines over the past 15 years or so!! Never a 'B, but I am sure it would work!!

Yea if the retainers come loose he will need to do that, but I am betting they want. Most of the time using a spring compressor to break a head down. You have to tap the cup to jay them loose. If he has a wide pry bar he could place it on top of the valve steam and not have to worry about it.