last problem with brakes (i hope)

alright i'd just like to say right away everybody here thanks so much, would have never even gotten started without your help. simply amazing :)

Unfortunately, I have another problem, got the rear brakes all built with new cylinders, adjusters, and pads, hooked them up, attached the hand brake, and started to bleed them.

First question: The bleeder screws shouldn't be able to wiggle back and forth should they? As in the opposite direction of the thread , so up and down and side to side.

And the real problem: On the driver side rear cylinder the solid line that is hooked up leaks from between the line and the thing you screw into the cylinder, not really sure what to call it, the end of the line has the threaded part that screws into the cylinder. I'm pretty sure it isn't leaking out between the thread and the cylinder, but I can't really tell for certain. Not really sure what to do from here, praying I don't need to replace the cylinder or the entire solid line, but it has to be one or the other right?

I'm no expert and it's been several years since I've done my brakes but here's what I recall. After tightning the bleed screws they should not wiggle or move in any direction. Of course should not have a leak between the line and cylinder. I'm wondering if you've got a poorly made set of cylinders? Do you remember the mfgr? Others with more experience should be of more help.

Good luck,

Bill

Yeah. It sounds like you have the wrong cylinder for the bleed screw and hardline to match to. Don't know how that could happen. Or, you have stripped all the threads.

Try your old bleed nipples in new cylinders. If they work, clean thoroughly and use them. If not, return new cylinders.
As for the hard line - it is possible you have a spec of dirt in there or damaged the flare portion or its just not seating due to a bulge. Remove the fitting and with a fine file, bevel the edge gently with a 45 degree angle and try again.
Hope this helps.
RS

Agree - just bled my rear brakes saturday after installing new lines - no play in the bleeders at all.

I agree that the bleeders should have no "wiggle" when they're snugged down (closed). But once you loosen them a 1/4 turn to bleed, there can be some "wiggle" due to clearance in the threads. Is this what you're feeling, or do they "wiggle" even when closed?

Derek, absolutely right, they don't wiggle when tightened down.
Robert, I wish, broke both of them while taking out old cylinders. I ordered a spare pair but didn't need to use them. I'll try that with the file though, thanks.
Chris, is that possible with the little shaft that sticks out of the cylinder? I understood from others that this identified each so that you could not put in the wrong kind. Also, the hard line works fine on the passenger side.
Bill, just ordered them from VB, company was some general name like Brake Manufacturing.
David, just wondering how the screwy-piece attaches to the line, or do they come pre-assembled?

If the bleeders tighten up when cinched down, those are good, and the advice about possible dirt is worth checking out. If you have a crack in the brake line at the flare, it will also cause bleeding. I jumped to a conclusion too early. Sorry.

ippe Wrote:

Exactly what i was talking about, thanks :)

Don't worry about it Chris, thought the same thing myself

Very strange experience, went out to work on the car today (was raining yesterday) and checked to see if it was leaking, nothing at all. Checked the master cylinder, filled up to the top. Tried bleeding it, fluid came out right away. Don't really get it but I'm happy. I'll probably still take it off to check, so I can feel confident.

Couple thoughts...

Bleeders are sometimes a little "iffy" in the holes when opened up. Different manufacturers and sometimes different lots from the same manufacturer will vary on tightness. Just so long as they seal when snugged down!

Fluid between flare nut and tubing. Hmmm. Could be residual fluid from original fitting up just seeping out (if it was an itty bitty amount). It could be a chunk of kaka so I think I'd first break the connection, clean it again and re-fit. Otherwise, I'd try tightening another 1/8 turn and see if that helped. Fractured tubing or flare needs to be replaced no matter what so a little tighter won't make a difference in that regard (i.e. making it worse).

Did you replace the tubing too, or is it the "original?" Flare fittings don't like being re-used a whole lot (although we all do it) and at some point they just don't seal any more.

the tubing was all in there when i bought the car, I'll take it off and clean it once this rain lets up and i sort out some other issues.
thanks a bunch