I need to install a new exhaust/intake gasket . The exhust manifold will not clear the studs, Ok no problem I think to myself, I will pull the studs. NOT! Soaked in PB blaster and double nutted, still NOT!
My plan is to soak the studs with blaster all week, heat with torch, rap with hammer on the end nuts, double nut and try again.
I really dont want to break a stud off! The other option is to try and pull the exhaust donut studs off, like that will be any better!
Anybody have any other good tricks or a way to slide the gasket behind the manifold?
Manifold to head studs- removal tips?
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I'm puzzled that your manifold won't clear the studs. I've just removed the head on my 71 and there was plenty of room. Is there anything stopping the manifold/downpipe from coming all the way off.
I can't help with removing the studs, two of mine came out just undoing the nuts
The manifold hits the steering box shaft befor clearing the end of the studs. 1/2 inch over lap and the gasket is one piece metal and wont slide between the overlap.
Oops, sorry, I should have realised yours is a US car and mines a UK.
Only four cap screws holding steering box on iirc. Two nuts on top and two on bottom. Piece o' cake!
You could loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up on the left side a bit. Try the PB blaster and heat trick first and when you put new studs in, a little anti-seize for the next time might help. Basil
Basil beat me to it. Also use the special longer BRASS nuts...they are at least sacrificial....
Well Duh! I have to raise the engine to install the supercharger pully anyway. Talk about not seeing the forest for the trees..................
Basil beat me to it. Also use the special longer BRASS nuts...they are at least sacrificial...."
Huh?
They are brass to not corrode away themselves .
The steel studs are more sacrificial than brass on the list of metals.
ref
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm
The point is don't use steel nuts. When/if the studs corrode badly enough the brass nuts will strip out rather than break off the studs. In that regard, to my understanding of American English would thus make the brass sacrificial. Been doing this right or wrong 30 years and sometimes occasionally know what I am speaking...;)
:beer:
when you heat around the stud with a torch try using a bit of candle wax when its still hot,be careful double nutting a stud puller is a good investment!
Looks like you may have a fix. That wax deal is a good one. Another thought would be to disconnect the exhaust at the head pipe rather than the manifold so you don't have to deal with said manifold studs and nuts. It might give you the room to move.
When you have removed the studs, you might want to due yourself a favor and use stainless bolts instead of studs on reassembly. When I installed my supercharger in 2002, I had to remove it saveral times due to teething problems. I got to the point that I could pull the whole assembly off in a fraction of the time without having to fight the front and rear exhaust manifold studs. RAY
When you have removed the studs, you might want to due yourself a favor and use stainless bolts instead of studs on reassembly. When I installed my supercharger in 2002, I had to remove it saveral times due to teething problems. I got to the point that I could pull the whole assembly off in a fraction of the time without having to fight the front and rear exhaust manifold studs. RAY"
What about the mechanical wear to the head threads?
I've always loosened the exhaust pipe bracket that is toward front of the car. That's given me enough wiggle room to get the exhaust manifold off.
I recently ran into this same problem on my '74.....The easy solution was disconnecting the manifold from the exhaust...the manifold came right out, because I could tip it enough to clear the steering shaft.
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