MGC caliper search solved!

I can't believe it. I was fretting over having to spend so much to get new calipers ($139.00 each at VB or $100 each to rebuild). Sunday I said lets look online again one more time and low and behold I found my way to Advance Auto parts web site. They had a set for 49.99 each. WOW! I received them yesterday and there the right ones. I can't believe I got them for so cheep and there was NO core charge so I get to keep my original ones for down the road.

I also have removed my slave, clutch, and master cylinders and have rebuilt them and they should be back in soon. The slave cylinder looked a little funny when I was taking it out and then I noticed there was a regular bolt where the bleed screw supposed to be. Already got a new one to make it right. One thing I wish I had the ability to do. The pedal box and cover is in really bad shape. I wish I had a sand blaster or something to get it cleaned up and repainted. I'm kind of anal about cleaning parts and putting things back in good condition. Oh well maybe in the future sometime. In the next few days I should have the front hubs, brakes, and clutch back in working condition then its on to the distributor and engine. Be on the lookout for my post asking all the easy question that I should know.. I'll update you all more in the future.

To remove old paint, use Airplane Stripper in the aerosol can. If you have rust, wire brush all you can, then shoot with Hammerite Black smooth finish.

any place thhat does headstones can blast that for you

RE: your pedal cover -- got a battery charger and a plastic bucket? Electrolosyse it! Removes rust and paint!

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Rob have you tried this method yourself? It sounds like a great way to go. I think I might give it a go on my gauge surrounds, they are metal, so it should go smoothly. Is there any danger in trying this method on very thin metal?

Thanks

I have tried it with great success. It removes rust, but it leaves sound metal untouched. Apparently it's the same method museums use when conserving metal artifacts. Try it, you'll like it!

David, if you send them down here to Mt. Pleasant I'll blast them for you. I have access to a bead blaster at any time and I'll be up where it's located a fair bit to start stripping the 70 BGT.

I found my rebuilt lucas alt at Auto zone for $88, and just bought brake pads for $12. I've quickly learned to ask the local parts store first, before I call Moss, VB or Proper MG.

Rob, that electrolist (SP?) method sounds very cool! Do you acutally put the leads from your charger in the bath or do you use extender wires? I just earmarked that page!

John,
I actually leave a little bit of the part and the anode sticking up out of the bath and connect the clamps to that. If the cable clamps are submerged, they'll be quickly eaten away. For an anode, I went to the thrift store and bought an old stainless steel pot lid for $1. I had been using mild steel, but it was consumed too quickly...

But would you want their involvement in a resurrection?

Is there any reason why you couldn't buy an old stainless kettle and use that as an anode? Sure, it would fail eventually, but if you set it in a plastic bucket you'd be safe from spillage and the anode would nearly surround the part.

Good idea Iggy, depending on the shape of the part. You would have to put something plastic to rest the part on so that you wouldn't have contact between the anode and the part.

Yep, as David says, about the only reason to not do that is the greater chance of the part shorting out on the container..... Another *possible* reason might be that if the part is some convoluted shape, you might have more trouble getting the inside cleaned up -- the process is a sort of "line of sight" thing. With a separate anode, you could move it around some. Sounds like a good experiment to try...

Two problems (both can be overcome): The part must be suspended so it doesn't touch the SS container anywhere (short) and second, if you are working the interior areas of a part, your SS 'trode needs to be in the interior. Overcoming my own problems: Suspend the part (duh!), and run a wire from the side of the SS container to a longish SS bolt hanging down in the middle of the part. I don't think the grade or thread pitch of the SS bolt would be very critical.

Rob - Can this process be used on the harmonic dampener? That dampener is always a pain to clean up.

Since you're only talking about mildly basic water that the part is in, I would think that it would be ok to do one -- I don't think that it would harm the rubber. Of course, I'm no chemist, so what do I know? Since the inner & outer parts of the damper are isolated by the rubber ring, I'd think you'd have to do it in two goes, or run two wires -- one to the inner part, one to the outer....