Motor mount replacement question

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MG Midget Forum: Motor mount replacement question
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Nov 15, 2009 07:13:13
losmorob

I can't get to it for awhile as I'm doing some yard landscaping. But I sure miss driving the Sprite. I have the new motor mounts, just no time too look at it. Soooo.....questions for now.

Can I jack up the motor enough to slip out the old ones and install the new? Do I need to loosen the trans mount? I would think I need to at least disconnect the exhaust. How about the slave cyl? Ca I get away with a jack and a block of wood under the pan or should I hook up the hoist from above?

Now back to the sidewalk construction, waterline & electrical conduit installation....:eyeroll:

Nov 15, 2009 08:20:26
Billm

There should be no need to do anything more than disconnect the front one or two mounts and swap them, anything more and you are just adding useless work to the job.
Put a piece of thick plywood under the pan and just jack up the engine.
BillM





Nov 15, 2009 10:02:28
kirks-auto

Bill x2

Nov 20, 2009 17:58:54
losmorob

#1. You can't just jack up the engine and the mounts slip right out.
#2 Unless you want to bend your exhaust, you better disconnect it.
#3 The fan has to be removed as it hits the shroud (radiator) as you jack up the motor.
#4 Re-fitting is a PAIN! I'm quitting for the night. I just can't seem to get it to lower down evenly. Tried bolting to the frame first, then the block. No luck either way. I think I've broken/bent one of the new mounts. Not an easy a job as it looks.

Nov 20, 2009 18:41:31
guzzidude

It took me an hour to wrestle a 350 Chevy into my old truck by myself. That was a lot of fun.

Nov 20, 2009 19:07:01
7mg2

Probably too late now, but try this if not.

Leave one side bolted up tho' loosened.
Remove all nuts and bolts on the opposite side. The bolts securing the mount to the chassis, and all the nuts on the rubber mount itself.
Place a piece of wood on a jack under the oil pan to spread the load, and jack the motor up until you can remove the mount. The "rocking" motion here should make it possible to extract the metal bracket first, though you may have to use a pry bar to compress the rubber mount enough to clear the single bolt from the bottom of the rubber mount.
Remove the rubber mount.
Re-install the new rubber on the front of the engine first, using the nuts to simply hold it in place. Do not tighten.
Wiggle the metal bracket in between the rubber mount and the chassis, using a pry bar again if necessary, until the mount bolt drops into the hole on the bracket.
Lower the engine and install nuts and bolts loosely.

Repeat on the other side. It shouldn't matter which side you do first, but I have found doing one side at a time much easier than doing both.
When installing a motor, I usually attach the bracket to the chassis only on one side, without its rubber mount. I attach the rubber to the motor on that side. To the other side I attach both the rubber mount AND the metal bracket as a loose assembly, and simply lower the motor into place. Works like a charm.

Good luck

Nov 21, 2009 10:59:08
200mph

Quote: "When installing a motor, I usually attach the bracket to the chassis only on one side, without its rubber mount. I attach the rubber to the motor on that side. To the other side I attach both the rubber mount AND the metal bracket as a loose assembly, and simply lower the motor into place. Works like a charm.
"


x2 !

If you end up pulling the engine and trans, replace the trans mount as well.

Nov 21, 2009 16:26:52
losmorob

Got it done. Thanks for all the tips. Having owned B's all my life, I'm just not used to removable motor mount brackets. (DUH!!!)

Done by noon and drove it 80 miles round trip to Thunderhill Park to watch a bit of The 24 Hours of LeMons. What a hoot! I'll post some pics in OT in awhile.

Nov 24, 2009 06:45:22
Swamperca

Next time you go out to Thunder Hill let me know and maybe we could hook up out there. Maybe we should try to arrange a Nor-Cal get together one day out there next year.

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