MGB: New floor's and seat attachment

I am replacing my floors and feel they are a bit wimpy, for seat attachment.
I have plenty of 3/16" Aluminum Diamond plate from days gone by. What do you fellows think about using it (as say 3"x3" backing plate's) for seat bolts, under the floor and then just spraying them black ? glue em in place with 3m 5200?

For sound I am seriously considering the use of truck bed liner in the doors and the floor maybe even the trunk. If I do the floors and trunk should it be inside or underneath ? Maybe both? Can it hurt?

On sail boats we use 3M 4000 and 4200 for waterproof adhesive caulk that can with some effort be removed and 5200 is the stuff they/we use when you never need to remove it . Again what do you fellows think about using these products for seam sealing inside and under the car.

I am Getting a bit nervous as I get back into this project after letting life get in the way of it for 10 years. . .

Richard, damn the torpedos! Sounds great! Do Pics!

There are places already welded to the tunnel, and inner side member to bolt the seat belts to.

Sorry Tom I must have worded it poorly above. . I am installing New floor pan's and I will in time need to re-install the seat's . I am thinking maybe I should backup my seat bolts.
( new floor pans come blank or I got cheated) I am just going to thru bolt the seat slides with bolts direct thru the pans and I am thinking about using Al. Diamond Plate for the backing. I could even make nice round ADP washers with a big hole saw.

Be careful. Two of bolting points on mine ended up inside the crossmembers. It is best if you attach the bolts before welding them in or it gets much more fun creating the attachement points. It isn't really necessary to create backing plates, just weld 4 nuts on the bottom of each.

Richard a trick I have used and passed on works really well. Cut out four 2"x 2" 1/4 inch thick steel squares and weld them in the relief areas where the seat bolts to the floor pan. Then after you have welded in your new floors you can drill and tap the holes from the top side. This makes a stronger attachment point than a welded nut and allows a little wiggle room when reattaching the seat.
Bill

5200 is great stuff but you must get it in every crack and crevice really well since getting it back out to rework an area is such a pain. You know how hard it is to remove it. We have quit using it as much as we used to just for that reason. I have thought about actually using it to put a set of floorpans in a car as the adhesive.

How about diamond plates floors on top of the wimpy floor pans?

WindWineandSong Wrote: