MGB: New Top Installation

Oct 09, 2008 19:51:31
eparke

I am not going to repeat all of the other questions about installing my new top (Robbins, arrived yesterday). I know everyone says to lay it out in the sun and install on a warm day, but this weekend it is supposed to be down in the 40's - when I want to install the top. I am planning on heating the garage to about 85 degrees and then draping the top over the frame. I'll also put a ceramic heater inside the car and hopefully this will make the top pliable. Anyone with any experience in doing this? I think it should work. We will see.

Oct 09, 2008 19:54:33
rrmgb

That should do it Eldon, any other questions?
Keep it warm and you'll have no problems. When its done, make sure it stays fastened all-around for a couple days or more.
RS

Oct 09, 2008 20:09:14
eparke

Robert, I am loaded with questions - I just don't know what to ask. I guess I'll just read the British Motoring article (again) and study all of the helps on here.

Oct 09, 2008 20:50:43
bleteaches6

Eldon

Hopefully these instructions help

" Cliff Notes" To Install A Top

-Read any instructions that the manufacturer might have included first.
-The best time to install a new top is on a warm day to relax the top material.
-Start by lubing the joints of the top frame and making any frame repairs that are necessary.
-Check to make sure that the trap nuts (attachment points on the body shell) are actually there and not stripped. If they are stripped or missing, create a backing plate with new nuts tack welded in place.
-Check the top bows for proper curvature. If they can't be bent back into position, new bows are available from the usual vendors.
-Remove the header bar rubber seal from the track. If the original seal is still good, consider reusing it as the new seals sometimes do not compress at the same rate as the old seal materials.
-Drill the rivets out of the seal channel on the header bar. Consider using a new seal channel bar if yours has been used before due to previous installers oversizing the rivet holes. You will need to have a selection of 1/8" aluminum diameter rivets of various lengths for the installation of the new top. Shorter 1/8" rivets for the middle sections of the header bar where there is only one layer of material being attached and 1/8"X3/4" for the end sections of the header bar where there are several layers of material being attached.
-One the new top has relaxed, install the old anchor bar that you have removed from the old top, into the new top making sure that you center it into the pocket.
-Once the old anchor bar is installed in the new top, lay to top over the bows and attach the anchor bar and adjacent snaps/Lift-A-Dots along the back edge.
-At this time, it is appropriate to mention that now is a good time to adjust the cars windows alignment. A new top will not necessarily fix leaks, etc. caused by poor window adjustments.
-Once the top is fully attached at the rear of the top and the windows are properly adjusted, pull the material forward to achieve the desired tension and laterally as needed to evenly space the window gaps and the top for both sides. A secret tool for getting the new top to hold in place during the final phases of installation is to use small needle nose Vice-Grips wrapped in tape to prevent marring the top material (see Photo).
-Take a piece of chalk and highlight some reference points on the leading edge of the header bar.
-Mask the windshield to prevent adhesive overspray in the next step.
-The next step involves the use of spray adhesive in a series of short steps. 1. Pull the material up from the center of the header bar. 2. Spray the center two-thirds of the forward half (the leading edge) of the header bar with adhesive. 3. Reposition the fabric so that the chalk marks are repositioned . 4. Lift the fabric back off the header bar. 5. Spray the wetted section of fabric with adhesive and re-spray the header bar as described above. 6. Reposition the fabric back onto the header bar as described above.
-The next sequence of steps involves attaching the channel rail. Using the center rivet hole of the header bar to make a location mark on the leading edge of the top with chalk. This mark will be used to locate the channel rail in the next step.
-In this step you are going to install the first rivet attaching the channel rail to the header bar. Start by pulling the top fabric over the leading edge of the header bar and into position under the channel rail. Use an awl to locate the center channel rail rivet hole through the new top material and into the central header bar rivet hole. Use a 1/8"X1/8" aluminum rivet to attach the channel rail to the header bar.
-Double check the top to window gaps for both sides to make sure that nothing has shifted.
-Continue the process of pulling the fabric taut under the channel rail for the remaining rivet attachments. Do not attach the outer two or three rivets yet, they will be attached in the next step.
-On the top, there are two tongues at each corner. One generally has finished edges and is the piece that forms the window gasket and is snapped to the windshield pillars. The other is the one that you will be using in this step. Take this tongue, fold it around the corner of the header bar and under the top much like a hospital corner on a bed. Attach the channel rail as described above using the 1/8"X3/4" rivets due to the thickness of two layers of material.
-Install a new rubber seal into the channel rail,or reuse the old one if that seal is still good.
-Install the snaps for the window gasket tongue/windshield pillar connection.
-While these guidelines are for a B, other models will follow the same procedure, but may have other ancillary interior bow straps, etc. to install.
-Stand back and admire your work!

Special Notes:
-Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and folding the top to avoid unnecessary damage.
-Remember that you get what you pay for in tops. The Robbins tops generally have extra material on the leading edge making it easier to attach to the header bar. Robbins tops also generally ship with the window cut out included, which gives you enough material to recover your door caps.
-On insightful tip is to have the overlapping fabric section that are normally glued around the rear bar, is to either install snaps or Velcro strips.
-Use 3M Super strength adhesive, (part #08090), over the General and Trim levels of adhesive.
-When you are installing a new top, remember to not stretch the top too tight as the top will shrink with time.
-Make sure that you use a Pozidriv screwdriver to avoid stripping the screw heads.
-Ever wonder why some of the attachment points on your top are easier to remove, there is a slight difference between the American and English Lift A Dot studs. The English studs are slightly larger in diameter and the tops are made with American studs!


Oct 10, 2008 08:28:52
eparke

Thank you Lee. I will use these instructions as a reference. I have the garage warming up now, should be able to do this by the afternoon.

Oct 10, 2008 15:23:28
eparke

Wow, I didn't think I would run into problems THIS soon with the top. Apparently, the snaps that go across the back of the top don't want to cooperate. I have most of them fastened down, but it seems that some of them don't want to snap down. Is there a trick to this? I am thinking about using about a 9/16" socket over the snap and tapping it down - but I wanted to ask first 'cause you know these tops aren't cheap. Thanks.

Oct 10, 2008 15:47:47
bleteaches6

The original English Lift A Dots have a slightly larger diameter barrel than the American version on the Robbins top. Order replacements and they will fit fine.

Oct 10, 2008 17:44:27
eparke

Okay, I will do that. I guess I can still continue with the installation and get it finished up, then change them out later? Also, what is up with these extra snaps that came with the top? How do I know where to put them? I suppose it might be self-explanatory when I get to that point.

Oct 10, 2008 23:53:49
bleteaches6

If they are the ones that I am thinking about, they are the ones that attach to the dog ears that snap onto the windshield pillar to give tension to the (for the lack of a better term) piece of cloth that forms the gasket against the side window.

Oct 11, 2008 12:57:02
eparke

Okay, I think you are right. Now I just have to find the tool to install them. Well, the top is on and I am thinking that I might have gotten it too tight. I know I have read that it will shrink, so I might be in trouble. Hopefully it will stretch out some instead of shrink! I won't trim the front off yet until I am satisfied that it is not too tight. I guess I can take it apart and redo it.

Google
 
Web mgexperience.net


Return to Archive Index | Live Forums Front Page | Website Front Page

Please note this is an archived discussion.
If you would like to add a comment or question please follow this link:
Live discussion: MGB: New Top Installation