no elect to the flashers, tach and heater and wipers

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Feb 11, 2012 12:37:23
NNN

I am at my wits end. My tach, wipers, heater and turn signals quit working. The wiring diagram shows the no. 3 fuse. I cleaned the connections and changed the fuse. Nothing. What could be the problem? I am thinking it has to be at the fuse but I have continuity there. All suggestions will be tried. Thanks.

Feb 11, 2012 13:25:39
tazman72

Check the voltage stabilizer. It's under the dash attached to the firewall. three gn. wires w/ spade plugs to a little rectangle box.





Feb 11, 2012 13:28:56
tazman72

PS if that is'nt it use your circuit tester and ck. continuity @ fuse box. Good luck.

Feb 11, 2012 13:44:37
NNN

I have continuity at the fuse box. Next the voltage regulator.

Feb 11, 2012 14:42:39
mgb4gary

Norman, check to ensure you have 12V at the third fuse. From there your green wire should go to a four wire bullet connector. check there for 12V. That connector feeds votage to the items which aren't working.

http://www.advanceautowire.com/mgb.pdf

Feb 11, 2012 14:59:04
Wray

Quote: "
Norman, check to ensure you have 12V at the third fuse. From there your green wire should go to a four wire bullet connector. check there for 12V. That connector feeds votage to the items which aren't working.
"


Gary x2, sounds like he's BTDT.

The stabilizer doesn't have anything to do with those circuits other than being fed by the green circuit.

Feb 11, 2012 15:31:09
NNN

Wray. What the hell is BTDT????

Feb 11, 2012 15:37:09
Moggy59

Been There Done That, got the t-shirt...etc

Feb 11, 2012 16:01:23
NOHOME

You say you have continuity at the fuse. Can you measure 12 volts at the green wires on the output of the fuse? Can you measure 12 volts when you turn on any of the accesories?

It is possible that you measure 12 volts at the green until you try to turnon any item that runs off the green wires. That would indicate a high resistance situation at the fuse block.

Feb 11, 2012 18:36:33
Wray

Like Paul says. We all have those moments when reading a post, "Yup, been there, done that"...

Feb 11, 2012 19:03:29
tazman72

It could be a ground problem also?

Feb 11, 2012 20:43:40
V8MGBV8

I had a similar problem years ago. Traced it back to the relay.

Feb 12, 2012 12:25:14
Bob Agar

My money's on the 4-way connector.

Feb 12, 2012 13:49:25
egads1

I just had the same problem. I had continuity but nothing worked. I decided to change the fuse anyway and in so doing I pressed the fuse in and everything worked. Later--nothing worked. Found the problem--the terminal for the fuse wasn't making good contact. When I pressed the fuse things worked but release and nothing worked. I changed fuse block and now everything works.

Feb 12, 2012 14:40:09
NOHOME

Quote: "
I just had the same problem. I had continuity but nothing worked. I decided to change the fuse anyway and in so doing I pressed the fuse in and everything worked. Later--nothing worked. Found the problem--the terminal for the fuse wasn't making good contact. When I pressed the fuse things worked but release and nothing worked. I changed fuse block and now everything works.
"


This is exactly what I am trying to communnicate. The test is to put a voltmeter on the green wire, you might see 12 volts, but when you turn someting on that requires power from a green wire, the voltage will drop.

I learned this the hard way with a fuse that read good with continuity meter but had a high resistance.

Feb 13, 2012 14:06:38
leenhodn

After using steel wool on all the fuses and connections to the ignition relay, I replaced the ignition relay with a generic relay for trailor lites that cost $7 at Advanced Auto. That fixed my problem, maybe it'll fix yours. Donno.

Feb 13, 2012 14:08:43
Moggy59

I think Carl and Dennis are on the problem. Can't hurt to try a new relay.

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