oil cooler line(and thermostat housing) question(s)

Hey guys,

After quite an ordeal trying to get the old line off, what is the easiest way to get the longer oil cooler line into the block? I got the male-male adapter that goes into the block in and semi-tight. Then it's at a weird angle and I can't get a wrench on to hold it tight while I put the line on. It seems to me that it would be a heck of a lot easier if I removed the distributor so I could get at the adapter, is this right?

Last week I posted a question about my problem trying to get one of the studs off http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,538646,538646. I tried again and still can't get that stud out without wrecking it. Can I just get new studs from a local parts place, are they just a standard part? If so what am I looking for? Gerry mentioned stainless bolts to replace the studs what part number are those? Cheers.

PS. These problems are the reason I've been non-committal about Gary's Run.

Amos,
I just replaced my oil hoses and cooler.
I took out the dizzy and removed the heater valve and the oil flex line to gain decent access to the hose fitting to the block. Used a 15/16 open-end wrench to tighten her down. Then replaced the flex line, heater valve then the dizzy (in that order).
That worked for me.

Good luck.

To remove the oil cooler hose I had good luck just removing the distributor and little oil flex line - I left the heater valve in.

Most US studs are UNF one end and UNC opposite end. IIRC the studs used on the B are UNF-UNF, so off the shelf studs are not 'correct', even though they will work.

Stainless bolts- go to your local real Industrial Hardware store (Not HD, Lowes, or other box store). They'll have Aisle after Aise of steel, stainless, brass, and aluminum fasteners. Take a sample in

Be sure to use anti-sieze compound if you use stainless hardware in steel blocks. I've seen probs with smaller stainless hardware in steel as some stainless hardware is a bit soft and galls up and gets stuck.

I personally would not change the hardware to stainless, I'd use OEM type hardware together with the anti-sieze compound.

I've ordered MGB studs and matching brass nuts from Moss with good result.