MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
Noticed the oil line leaving the filter to the cooler is rubbing on engine bay, can't move line design of hoses. Any idea if I have hoses backwards. The angle end is attached to the cooler. Picture doesn't show actual rubbing, but hopfully you get the ides.
Ray, if your '76 is the same as my '74 then you should have both of the 90 degree ends on the cooler side and the 45 degree ends on the engine side. I can't tell from the pic, but do you have the 2 straps that clamp the lines together? There should be one on either side of the radiator surround, maybe that will help keep the lines off the inner wing, if thats where your rubbing. If you need the straps, you can get them from the B-Hive for about $3-4 each. Also, you could put some thin foam or sheet rubber 1/2 way around the line and tie wrap it to the oil line as extra protection for the line or the place where it's rubbing.
I just replaced all of my oil lines, straps and grommets today.
Jack, I only meant to suggest that Ray could insulate the rubber part of the line, never the actual metal fitting. I wasn't thinking about the possibility of a failed motor mount.
I have both straps and the hose is rubing at the botton of the inner wing. I put some foam betwee the line and the wing. Maybe I'll change to SS braided lines.
I thought the current crop of stainless steel oil hoses was crap with the inner rubber hose deforming without being noticed b/c it's covered by the metal?
I suppose you could cut a short piece of pipe wrap and put it around the oil hose where it rubs.
Don't try to insulate it with rubber anything.
Loosen the fitting and see if you can rotate it enough to clear what ever the line is rubbing against.
Failing that, run a floor jack under the oil pan with a bit of wood on top of the saddle and slowly lift the engine. Better yet have someone else pump the jack handle SLOWLY while you watch the RF motor mount. It could be that it has un-vulcanized itself and has allowed the engine to drop down enough for the oil cooler line to touch the frame. Check both front mounts, obviously, as when both fail the engine is allowed to rotate a little.
Another thought would be to add one or two of those engine mount shims that most folks toss into the trash when they do a clutch job.
Edit: You can also get a tad more clearance by loosening the big bolt that comes into the bottom of the filter adapter and twisting the adapter just a little. Looking up from below the engine you would be twisting the thing counter clockwise. Re-tighten the bolt well.
Jack
I haven't heard of any failures or problems with oil cooler hoses from any manufacturer. There was a spat of bad oil pressure lines a while back, maybe that's what you're thinking of?
I agree with jack, loosen the hose and rotate the fitting. It should not rub the engine bay paint.
Ray,
there are two different sets of pipes for a MGBs. Cars up to 1974 had the cooler mounted beneath the grill, while on rubber bumper cars, it was installed behind the front valance. The later cars made use of longer pipes but fitted with the same flanges.
Yours seems to have the cooler in front of the radiator. When using pipes of a RBB on this cars, they will rubb some where as they are simply too long and have to be replaced for those of the right length.
Ralph
as for failures I have personal experience with an oil cooler line that pushed itself from the copper fitting, resulting in a grinding halt of the engine. No fun I can assure!
Drew. I think the problem you were referring to with the stainless braided oil cooler hoses relates to a failure reported to Moss Motors by a shop in Colorado. The problem with the stainless steel hoses showed up in one installation only. That was an MG Midget oil cooler kit.
All stainless oil cooler hoses were frozen from sales until testing could be done to determine if there was a problem with fabrication or material of the hoses.
Samples of hoses were dissected, then tested in oil and fuel to see if there was a problem with compatibility of the rubber liner. All tests indicated that the liners were compatible with both oil and ethanol fuel.
There was some evidence of damage to the outer braid of the line, but nothing that indicates why the inner liner collapsed. There is no reason to believe that the installation was to blame.
At that point the sales block was removed, as no other failures of this type had been reported. The oil cooler hoses are now on a watch list and any further problems will be immediately investigated.
That's the word on the stainless cooler lines.
kelvin
Kelvin Dodd for president. 'Nuff said. (even if he does have a white 1977 rubber bumper MGB ) ;)
I'm not near my garage right now, but I know that on my '74 roadster w/ moss rubber hoses, the hoses clear everything. My '73 GT has PO installed SS covered hoses. On the GT, the hoses are crossed such that the hoses to through different holes in the radiator support than on the roadster. The rear hose hits the coil. I need to get it routed correctly and eliminate the contact w/ the coil. (right now a zip tie and piece of pipe insulation keep it clear)
Perhaps some can verify which hose goes through which hole in the radiator support.
while we're on the subject i'll offer a WARNING. the most important part of that installation are the little strap-e-do-s that hold the lines in place. i "neglected" to put them back on mine at one point and your rub on the paint was nothing like my rub on the alternator-pulley-fan-blades. YEEOUCH. i got it shut off before causing engine damage but what a mess! just a word to the wise.
Paul, the 73 has the oil filter going through the lower hole and connecting to the passenger side port of the cooler. The oil connection at the rear of the engine goes through the upper hole and connects to the d/s cooler port. HTH!
Edit:
One thing I didn't do on this car is ever getting around to using the hose thingies (love the terminology?) and still there is no rubbing.
Chris - Yep - I just got back from the garage and saw your note. My '74 has them correct w/ the long hose from the far side of the cooler to the back of the engine going through the top hole.
