Original Body Joint Sealant

As I finish up chemically stripping my MGA Coupe I have run into some hardened globs of mastic type material at certain panel joints as if this were done at the factory for noise reduction and/or as a joint sealant. For example at the point where the upper front bulkhead panel is spot welded to the cowling below the windsheild. Also found in the boot on the inside wing bolt holes.

I know that the mgaguru website states that no undercoating was applied at the factory, but as I got underneath tonight and start scraping it away, I notice that there was white overspray at the edges. The metal underneath is clean unrusted metal finish. Would this have been done by the dealer before it hit the road? Wonder about the overspray though.

Making headway, John L.

John,
Have you been following the thread on "coupe drip channels to roof sealing" on the other MGA BBS? Perhaps the material you are seeing is the "Dum Dum" product. There is a horsehair type material between the rear of the boot floor and the curved section of the body on all orginal MGAs. Perfect for retaining moisture! Similarly the original felt between the floor boards and the chassis.
I found this black sealant on the coupe doors between the quarter light window frames and the top of the doors.
Eagles tickets?
Peter.

Factory used an auto body caulking compound on the seams in the boot and up near the firewall/dash area. You can buy new compound (3M I think) from Eastwood, or use a suitable caulking product (paintable, dries hard) as I did after chipping out the old stuff. The OEM application wasn't very neat on my car.

Thanks guys. When I re-read my post, I realize I didnt really ask a question, but you read my mind. Yikes. We are all thinking alike.

My joints looked like they were applied with a stick. I found the horse hair stuff at the back of the trunk too. In fact there were little sharp pins to retain the stuff. The gap is quite large for just caulking, but they make a foam backing rope that should help fill the gap nicely.

No Eagle tics yet, Peter. Went to a wild curling match up at the Olympics a couple weeks back. Drove close to your place.

John

jclars,
I found a perfect seal for the back of the trunk floor to the rear body on my car. It was the Moss trunk lid sealing rubber foam.

I had installed the Moss seal for the trunk lid and found it too thick and got the MacGregor seal which was perfect. I found the Moss seal fit well with proper compression and for sealing the gap at the rear of the trunk floor. The MacGregor and Moss seals both work in the places I put them. No problems in 4 years.

Jim

John,

I have just ordered a tube of "3M Fast N Firm" (don't know price yet, but expect it will be 15-20 bucks). It is the size of a tube of caulk, and it is beige in colour. It is a urethane product, and is paintable 30 minutes after application.There should be plenty left over for you to use. Problem is it only has a one year shelf life so might be hard by the time you need it! LOL. Of course this has many applications in the heating/ventilation business, if you know what I mean.
You should have dropped in when passing. Tried to get Sting tickets this week - same old same old! (and they were not cheap) Someone should tell these artists what TM is doing.
Seeya soon. Peter.

Peter -

I didnt know 3M was into generic meds for us older male folks. Snappy name though.

I am slow, but with your assistance (you apply, I watch), I am sure we can get the thing sealed within a year.

John L.

John,
I prefer the 4M (for males) product "Long N Slow N Firm".
If I could just get the frame screws, I could build the doors with this stuff fitted under the quarter lights on the top of the doors. Waiting for the screws from TC, but he says he can't get to the shop as he is snowed in.Oh what it is to live on the wet coast! I will be fitting the drip channels this week, however.
Peter.