OT - Workbench

Does anyone have a plan for a SIMPLE workbench they would share of know of one somewhere? It has to be simple and basic for me to build myself, but useful. AL Bradley

How many do you want? http://www.freeww.com/workbenches.html has quite a few plans for workbences for all sorts of uses

Me, personally, I would stay away from any bench that has more than 4 or 5 inches overhand on the ends.

I used pine 4x4 for the legs on mine, inset 2X6 into the legs for crossmembers and glued and nailed everything together. Two layers of 3/4" plywood with 1X2 around the edge makes up the top. It's heavy but with a workbench, you want it HEAVY so it will stand up to anything you want to do with it. I also perfer workbenches that allow access from all four sides rather than a wall mounted bench

Al I make tables out of solid core doors. I make them out of chopped up steel now. If you don't weld I used to make them out of just 2x4's. When I made them out of wood, I would not fasten the door down too much. It was nice after a couple years to flip the door to get a good clean surface again:

Al, the one my dad has used forever is a series of 2 x 4 set on edge with three longggg bolts run through them to hold them together. The legs are 4X4 with 2x4 run between them for support. It's very stout. He doesn't have and engine stand, and I've seen him rebuild engines on it.

What Gerry said, but when you are done get a sheet of steel (1/8" or 12 or 14 gauge) cut to match the top and use a few screws to hold it in place.

Also, if your shop space is at a premium when you are designing it figure in the height of four HEAVY casters for the bases of the legs. The HD locking kind are pretty cheap at Northern Tool and places like that.

Paint it up pretty and it will last a lifetime. :-)

Jack

I was going to make some like Gary's but I was going to add extra legs equally spaced and then leave openings for Craftsman tool chests (the bottom part)to roll into the spaces to use a drawers and movable tool boxes. Never got arouind to it......Steve

Steve a couple down legs or angled in the back would be good.




We did a table for the welding tech session a couple weeks ago. I added casters and it is nice to have a table that can be moved around. This table is on casters which make it nice for moving around too:

Okay Gary, what's in the buckets? Jack

Zinc, copper, nickle, chrome, hard chrome

Ah so, Mon Ami! Doing a little plating work there are you? Jack

Here is an exhaust tip for you Jack:

http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/homestretch/ex3.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/homestretch/ex5.jpg

I'll second using wheels on the legs. Its much easier to clean up and rearrange when you can unlock the wheels and move it with ease.

I needed a bench in my rather cramped garage so I just built one from a solid core door. I used three good sized strap hinges to attach it to the wall and made two legs out of 2x4s that are hinged. The whole assy swings down flat against the wall taking up only about 4 inches. I am now putting together a 2 tube flourescent fixture that will also be hinged. Not a super heavy duty bench, but great for lighter duty projects.

Al, how big of a bench are you looking to build?

I built one a few months ago measuring 24" x 48" that fit perfectly in the corner of my two-car garage. I tried to track down the plans on my computer but can't find them. If you are interested in that particular plan, I can track it down online, which is where I originally found it.

Consists of 2x4's, 3/4" plywood (double stacked for the work surface) and held together with lag bolts - pretty sturdy little bench and has served well, so far. Took about 2 hours to build from start to finish.

MOSS Motors published plans awhile back in British Motoring to build a workbench
with parts washer (I have a copy).

I just purchased a new work bench (basically a table) from IKEA for about $50.

I have a copy of plans to build a "hinged, attached to the wall" door / table.

Gary: I sure love those benches you make. Yes, I will be building some model airplanes on mine - just the nonflying plastic variety, though.

I sure got some wonderful ideas from all of you and I do appreciate your sharing so fully in this endeavor of mine. You have all been most helpful. I am off to investigate the cost of plain, solid core doors and some 4X4's, now! AL Bradley

AL Bradley Wrote:

I got some old kitchen cabinets from a remodel job. The drawers and cabinets make a nice storage place for cans and tools. When the counter top got to beat up, I bought some masonite and screwed it down for a new surface.
I made shelves out of my coworkers old fence.

Gary: I only have the models that I made as a kid (believe it or not) forty-plus years ago. I love the old WW II airplanes and intend to start modeling them again after I finish this *%$%* B-52 that I started months ago! I want to make a bench to finish it up because bending over that old card table I was using was breaking my back! Maybe I'll try to get a few photos of some of my older models - that's a good idea! AL Bradley

Did you ever do much weathering? That was always tough for me. Here is one of my warbirds. 100cc engine, 34lbs, hand made articulating retracts:



http://www.rc-tech.net/per/gear/firsta.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/per/gear/firstb.jpg





http://www.rc-tech.net/per/gear/f2b.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/per/gear/lowpass.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/per/gear/gear1.mpg

Now that looks like fun Gary! I have gathered some printed info concerning plating but haven't actually tried it yet. Using that tip for instance, is it a big deal or does it take a great deal of time to "do" a part?

Jack

Depends on what you are doing. I think the Zinc is the most usefull; especially if you are doing a car.


Re-chroming old parts take ALOT of time and skill. You have to strip the old plating, fill in the pits, clean it, plate a copper bath to protect the underlying metal, another copper bath to build up a smooth surface, pollish, repeat. When the copper is smooth as glass then nickle plate it then CHROME. It is something you have to want to do.

Zinc on the other hand I think would be very usefull to many if you were restoring an old car. There were many a part I sandblasted, polished if you want a nicer finish, dropped in zinc and dropped in yellow. Hung to dry, greased and put back on. Lot's of latches, door internals, brackets, etc. It takes very little current and is pretty easy.

I get the stuff from Casewell plating (online). If you are doing a car and get a kit such as the Zinc, you get a manual that covers how all the plating is done. It is a good book to learn from even if you don't plan on doing it yourself (although not layed out as good as it could be). I think Caswell is a good outfit for the hobbiest. They also have a great on line forum and online tech suport!

For the legs and bottom shelf I used the Moss plans referenced above. For the top section I kept my eye on my local Lowes "returns" section and picked up an 8ft section of high quality laminate counter top (it puts my current kitchen counter top to shame!) Nice and solid.Very heavy. Easy cleanup with the laminate top. I haven't quite figured out how to take it with me when I move, but I sure want to!!

Tim

Al I built a couple of benches years ago from an idea in a woodworking mag. Simple const but strong and verisitle. You basicly build vertical uprights from 2x4's and 1/2 plywood. use as many and space them as you like. You can add cleats for shelving or build drawers, With the plywood sides you can attach anything anywhere. I can send you some detail drawings if you like.
Bill

Here's one of mine

There's a great site with a lot of info at http://www.garagejournal.com . . . I frequent it alot under my name, BradleyMiller. There are some nice shops/garages . . . some that look like they're a tribute to credit/big bills, and some that are more down to earth . . . I take a little of every idea to whittle away on my own "man sanctuary" . . . . ok, any women on here that want to cut me off at the knees . . . your right inline behind my wife. :)