MGB: Paint prep & Painting [bootlid]

a view of the rear deck , there are 5 layers of paint here pus multiple lays of intermediate primer..
prior sanded cracked paint away . w80>120>220 ,, applied eastwood high build which reacted with one lower layer and gave a very nice crinkle finish heh , re-sanded with 80>120>220

applied eastwood guide coat paint ,, got no training or advice , i just let the surface and tools talk to me..

next i am going at it with 320 on boards and block

more later \


the question is ,, since one layer reacts with the rattle can high build what is the next application indicated

epoxy primer
urethane primer
evercoat feather fill

You need to use paint stripper and get the lid back to bare metal. Use aircraft stripper, it works very fast. You can find this type of stripper at a auto paint store, or maybe NAPA. You'll be ready to rock and roll in about an hour and a half. You can also take the lid to a sandblaster and have it blasted clean, but that's more money. Just make sure you wash the trunk lid really well with water to clear off all the stripper residue.

Since we usually don't have a complete history of our cars, we never know what POs - dumb or otherwise - have done to them. So, if I understand the situation correctly, what you are applying is adversely reacting to what is already on the lid's surface, correct? If so, then I think you need to strip the lid to bare metal, then do your prep work.

My .02 - and probably not what you wanted to hear...

Cheers,

Glen

I had a similar problem on my hood (but my paint had turned to chalk). Someone sells a sealer you can use before priming - but to me this was just more money and an extra step I didn't need.
$9 for aircraft stripper, a puddy knife - and in 1 hour I had it back to metal. then I cleaned and primed and it looks good.

one vote for the propane torch and paint scraper..

i don't *want* to hear nuttin..

if stripping to metal is indicated by one intermediate layer reacting the whole body surface should be done

not going to happen

just as likely i would take it to the Iron City and shell out 6K to a friend

i'd rather spend the bucks on a supercharger and squirt the thing with oil base house paint..

which is it enamel over lacquer or lacquer over enamel one expects reaction

and which of those categories is the eastwood urethane

i am seeking advice on which application would be least likely to react and is suggested next

epoxy primer
or
urethane primer

the feather fill is going on anyway..
before or after the primer

and providing some quaint pics .. one of the first 3 will be selected ,, and if you keep watch you gonna know if there is a reaction ,, if there is i just sand some more and featherfill over,,

this is not DPO work that i am revealing.. rather high dollar professional applications

If you're determined to use the Feather Fill, apply it first, work it down with 220-320 no-fil, and then use the urethane primer between it and the color.

You could have the whole exterior stripped in 1 day if your motivated...

Bite the bullet and take it down to bare metal. You may have a layer of paint in that mess that did not bond to the previous paint. Solvent of will seep under that layer and lift it. That paint layer will come back and bite you in the ass at sometime, somewhere on that car. Take the time and effort now to prep the car correctly and be done with it.

horse manure on the motivation paul , its plenty enough motivation for a centurion to roll out of the rack..
at 0 dark thirty and live one more day much less push the long board a bit
check your right wing on your next night flight ,, there's a [url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gremlin#The_airplane_gremlin_legend][color=#FF0000]Gremiln[/color][/url] there to dance a dance of glee for you

you all use high build primers right.. or wrong ?
slicksand is a heavy application product
featherfill is a lighter application product
squirt on skim fill
quality name brand product one hopes .. primer/filler/sealer

covers the 36 grit scratches so said.. 36 grit on a big damn air DA the production shop standard strip Ain't it ..

you will find no 36 scratches here i started with 80..

i intend to work the high build with 320>400
and perhaps forget the primers altogether.as was original intention

still no one can or will commit ,, [save one]
it is known that eastwood etch rattle can does not react with the suspect layer and that evercoat high build does

i WOULD like to take the sage advice of forum and apply an initial primer over existing surface .. prior to the high build
i had thought to use epoxy .. but see the urethane prime and wondered.. and sought advice..

ain't gonna be no bullet biting.. you want to do right ,get all the available sheet panels fab form and lay it up in carbon fiber an assemble ,, thats the the way//

i suppose i will go with N'awlins advice and lay urethane prime on the highbuild then after flash ...color

feel.. developing .. when to change paper, am using whiteline 320.. feel it can you feel the cut of new 320 vs used 320

here is one of my little friend i send to each and all..............

Michael, it appears that there's a coat of old enamel type paint layered in with perhaps some laquer based primers and acrylics over the years. The old enamel is probalby what is reacting to the new paint. Some primer sealers will work well to cover that type layer, but be aware that if you sand through them during the course of any other work you'll need to recoat that area to seal it. I would vote for stripping the car to bare metal. Do you have a 4" angle grinder? If so I found that there's a 3M product of a scotch brite type disc and holder that mounts on a grinder and will make short work of old paint without clogging up and is easy on the base metal as well as not generating too much heat. I stripped my MGA body in less than a day using one. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=GSSMKJD3ZVgsH55CPWS904glQ5G9XT73Z7bl
Check with local auto body suppliers or industrial supply shops such as WW Grainger to see if they have them. I got mine off of e-bay but that was several years ago. Still worth a try I suppose.

I hate the aircraft stripper. The 3M disc is very quick attached to a drill or the kind for a grinder. I did go to bare metal for mine and yet I still have had problems.

I don't blame you for not wanting to go to bare metal. My guess then would be Epoxy Primer

quote from initial
"""""""
the question is ,, since one layer reacts with the rattle can high build what is the next application indicated

epoxy primer
urethane primer
evercoat feather fill
""""""
end quote

Bill

i do have a 9.99 angle grinder i got at Rural King for 20 bucks but there is not going to be no strip to metal happening ... too damn much fill to flat surface would be required with the surfaces existent

solid RB MGB's are so cheap it is not worth the effort.. and i am disinclined

after i endured the removal of that sorry clear coat crap with 80<120<220 with a machine..

the question IS
given a single layer that lifts
which is best to apply
evercoat high build
OR
epoxy primer

delete urethane primer
if it is applied that deletes epoxy primer initial , then it will be on top of the premium high build product prior to color .. prime >flash >color
or maybe not , maybe just lay the premium high build primer/filler/sealer .. block to 400 and shoot color

IF evercoat high build rattle can reacts AND eastwood etch Does NOT

which is best
whats the chemicals in those products
wonder whats in the high build thats not in the etch
and does that chemical appear in ,, epoxy primer and/or evercoat featherfill ..


too dmn long at his .. going below and push the long board , the blocks ,, feel the cut ,, smoothed to 320...
after todays push on that deck i will put up anoter deck pic..

weather or not anybody really G.A.S
i will let you know if there is a react with underlayers


'' where is my medications ', i am getting faschia [misspelled Cajun]

m

There is a saying in the paint game.

Once enamel, always enamel.

If you want to spend your dosh on a supercharger, rub it with 280 wet.

Blow some epoxy over it fairly dry.

Flatten it out again with 320 wet.

Blow some cheap 2K over it.

i pushed that black guide off with the 320 . i had let it sit overnight and it was still balling up ..

check this pic after, ain't it cute , there's your bare metal ,center section,there are a couple high spots there and whats with that little round high spot up by the 16 inch push board , its like that from factory since there is a brace covering inside.

the bare metal gets etch primer , the panel gets visited with the 320 twice more , lightly

i do not find but one layer of yellow on the bonnet and sides so i wonder whats up with this rear deck it gets all those layers..

still no conclusion, maybe i will put an application of epoxy primer, maybe not.. here is the Product information sheet on the primer surfacer [url=http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/Feather%20Fill%20G2%20PIS%20032009.pdf][color=#FF0000]Featherfill G2[/color][/url]
high-solids, high-build formula that has a tight cross-link cure,
which holds down body repair areas, provides an excellent foundation for any paint system and
eliminates body filler staining. It has excellent adhesion to steel, galvanized steel, aluminum,
fiberglass, SMC and body filler.


i think i will take a nap and address the right rear quarter with the 320 about midnight .

later

Umm, top coat will fall off if direct over etch primer.

that evercoat G2 primer is rated to lay over etch , an *approved* substrate
don't know if the epoxy is [ iam disappointed eastwood does not link to a product sheet, they are revealing]
i can get a quart of epoxy primer for 40 $.
featherfill at 65 $the gallon


i sure wish i could find some 80 grit equivalent 3M pads i think they might be helpful when i start scratching up the jambs , under the bonnet ,under boot lid et al
i think i will get a qt of the epoxy , don't think i want paint on paint w/o prime
if i am going to spray in the lot in november i should go push those blocks some more

weed~whites~and wine would help speed the process

Why not just have it soda blasted? It's pretty cheap and a lot less labor. I've had not critical parts, such as fan suround, heater box etc., sand blasted and could see no warpage. I don't know if I was just lucky, but around here, for about $15 you could have the thing blasted and be done with it.

Dave

its not on the approve course of action list for various reasons

good to get you input though ,,
i lived in Tooele for a few years

& have a 1993 Bronco , inline six , extended range tanks , limited slip fore and aft..

if i set for economy cruise i can run about 850 miles before i fuel with maybe a 50 mile reserve
i remember when i first got to tooele the ford was on the ship , the MG was the only vehicle, i was in a motel down by the truckstop by the lake , morning run up the hill i felt like it was Dawn Patrol , pulling that grade every day , then there came so said Fire Hose of Snow off the Lake ... what fun !!!!

whos on crack

har de har pooch

i took a nap and returned to work at 1 AM local

using the narrow block on the sides RH rear door up to the RH forward qtr,, soon ,,,these simple surfaces go fast but remember i intend to visit them twice more ,

where these flat surfaces at ? the bonnet and the boot lid are closest to but they have sweet gentle curves..

i donna like the crack heads one killed my second wife,,

but as prescribed by [url=http://lyrics.wikia.com/The_Byrds:Willin'][color=#FF0000]Dallas Alice[/color][/url] i would do some pharmaceuticals.

that link dona spell the words correct ,, they can not spell Tonapah right , and maybe i can not either but i wager i got closer
but i will take your advice , cook up some java/joe/jamoke ,, maybe mud is more like my brew

ill have a cuppa for you
m

isolation primers are available

i would imagine they are and indeed my rattlecan east wood etch does not react

one would think a vendor like Eastwood catering to the backyard DIY market would have such clearly identified , i expect this is a common problem for the amateur refinisher .

no one here is very happy with my choice of leaving all those layers on , but it is my choice,

the reacting color layer is [counting from the top] either layer 2 or 3 which reacted w/ evercoat high build rattlecan

this was no big deal to me , i sanded smooth

it could be that the epoxy will not react
it could be the G2 will not react
if which ever is applied reacts then i will sand smooth and reapply sooner or later i will have enough G2 polyester on so the lift is not seen , there is a question about how well the products are sticking in the reacting areas

it is about dawn in north Tennessee , the storm is past by, [while i napped] ii am around to the forward left quarter and expect to finish the round this am, just two more panels ,push out , rinse off, sweep the work space , wash the inside of the bonnet with strong cleaners and then wipe it with acetone ,

then maybe take a nap or maybe not

I vote for a nap.

pushed out rinsed off

underside of bonnet lid cleaned \


work space swept and rinsed

engine started

but then after 10-15 seconds it died and failed restart


bummer ,,, its always something

fuel in the filter ,

12 V at the coil

no energy to pull the air filter and shoot a little ether in

no helper to test for spark at plug

wish Pooch was here id ask him to pull # 1 spkplg wire to inspect ... and then crank while it was in his hands

heh

\pushed in

battery charger applied

i better take a nap
wifey wants to build a bon fire up by the road at dusk
and i need to sharpen the 125 year old hand forged double bit.. to cut wood proper

its cute
one can see little bits of steel welded at the ends..

i think grand dads dad forged it

or was it granddads grand dads brother i am unsure

One important piece of advice...do not let the Feather Fill "kick" in the cup and the gun. Plan on a pot life of about 12 to 14 minutes max. Get the material on the decklid in two sessions and get the material out of the cup and gun with acetone. Otherwise you run a strong chance of not being able to clean your primer gun and cup.

""""not let the Feather Fill "kick" in the cup and the gun"""

sage advice , can not be good to have liquid high build primer surfacer to set up in the gun..



[color=#FF0000]QUESTION:[/color] if i display proper methodology , how much product should it take for a pass around the vehicle , OR how many single coat passes will a 24 OZ cup do.. less than one , more than ??

my products arrived,, the FFG2 can indicates pot life of 55 min and 45 in the gun @ 75 F..
and that i can thin with 5-10% acetone to extend that, i suppose i should go below and wipe that deck lid with acetone and see if that curdles the suspect Lacquer layer..
however
the data sheet indicates
TEMPERATURE RANGE Pot life*(minutes)
65° to 75°F (15°C-24°C) 40
75° to 85°F (24°C-29°C) 28
85° to 100°F (29°C-38°C) 20
> 100°F (38°C) 15

considering you are in NewAWW Lans

i rekon your experience was at 100 F..
i hate to think about that 100F and humid and suited up.. my Pot life in that condition would be less 1o min to stroke out..

if i am a good boy i will drag an old painted panel up, sand it to 320 , and do an application on it,to try to get the feel of the cheap turbine rig and a process i am inexperienced with ,,
sand to 400
then the color Generic yellow base sand to 1500[ humm will 1500 give adequate tooth ?].. then clear and color in decreasing % of color with a mid layer of HOUSE OF KOLOR INCA GOLD DRY PEARL,DP34.. and ghost flames with YELLOW KOSMIC GLO POWDer , { glows in the dark ?] var.. other red & orange pearls , then maybe put off set[ not quite in alignment chameleon flakes and powders so that when one passes by a *flickering*effect is revealed.. ideal application would be so that it was visible at a distance and at angles but when one approached to inspect it was just yellow ..
all subtle to the max..
we call that goofing on you or less discretely phrased F..,,n wit your mind


i suppose it will take me 5 0r 10 years to execute that ..
or 10,000 $ and 3 days in the right shop


what do ya know
what do ya say


mrbb

bump
repeat since no response


[color=#FF0000]QUESTION: if i display proper methodology , how much product should it take for a pass around the vehicle , OR how many single coat passes will a 24 OZ cup do.. less than one , more than ?[/color]

Napa in Paris TN had some vapor proof 36in masking paper,, how nice..

very nice shooting days here ....

cool clear and no wind......


i think i will mix half a cup ,,,,

and shoot it from the get go with no practice..

Death from above or Jump and die

take your pick

Well no response prob cos' you are the one with the hottest thinners available...acetone. about to spray onto a known suspect substrate.

Who wants to be around when it fries up in your face.

no guts no glory

simple question

how much product does it take to turn around the machine

if the damn Laq curdles up it is small problem ////// sand down and shoot again.......


sooner or later it will cover

its not like it will detonate

i guess it is fruitless to question how much DP34 ,, inca gold pearl Aught to be added to color coat and the fading mirror clears..........


pooch, my buddy
sure wish you could get on board for the long run , no law , full throttle ..solo driving for 10 thousand miles

One full gravity pot would go 1 1/2 times around a B with everything shut.

If I was you I would mix up 2 egg cupfuls and lay it on the boot and see what happens.

You chose not to take any advice, so do let us know how your paint job goes.

Ummm. I like epoxy primer, just so ya know. It just takes a good while to dry, but it seals up good. Mikek

Hey Jack

i take advice
just piss poor advice forth coming
sand to metal Y'all said and i did that..


until i hit the high spot.and showed metal . no damn sense in going lower in my mind....


i read full cup for a turn and a half .......... half cup should do 3/4 , should push to 1.....

its a turbine rig /////

it may well be a sloppy poor cover coat ,, or maybe not /


who is up for bets on the product......

will evercoat feather fill cover w/o substrate reactions ,, or not


evidently you all do not know

wifey says " they don't know"
here is another americanisim

you guys do not know sh1t from shinola

apparently








.......

Sez the guy with the butchered pilot bush and the about to be butchered paint job.

The advice was not to sand, but to burn and strip.

Pity the next owner of this one.

Is funny as well as entertaining watching a DPO in present action.

i hate it when stimulus makes me get ugly

deleted ultimate ugly phrase ...from many years and a million miles over the long road.........

. its just paint
a wee bit of sanding and its gone

but however sorry ugly it might be it is still protective coating...


the other day i sent a pic of a ww2 gremlin,,,,,,, the law of retribution sent more and other into my systems...

pooch old buddy mine .. better check your systems good your attitude and language have put you at risk

for the Wee British Gremlins to infiltrate your machinery

:drinking::drinking::drinking::drinking::drinking:maybe